I have a 1980 27 with a wheel. I need to repack the stuffing box on the rudder. It looks like the only way to get at it is to remove the cabling on the wheel and go in from the stern cockpit seat. Am I correct? Is there a better way?
- Status
On the rudder?
Stuffing box is usually on the shaft, near the engine. If that's so, there are dozens of posts with excellent advice in the Archives of this web site.
Stuffing box is usually on the shaft, near the engine. If that's so, there are dozens of posts with excellent advice in the Archives of this web site.
Yep, on the rudder.
Related Link is from the Cherubini manual. My H37C is different so not sure how you actually get to it. Because it is below the quandrant(drive wheel) you can be sure it's one of those stand on your head deals. Someone who has done it will see this and clue you in. For some reason the "Related Link" did not take. Here is the link: http://home.attbi.com/~tdl/tdl/hunter/pg23.jpg
Related Link is from the Cherubini manual. My H37C is different so not sure how you actually get to it. Because it is below the quandrant(drive wheel) you can be sure it's one of those stand on your head deals. Someone who has done it will see this and clue you in. For some reason the "Related Link" did not take. Here is the link: http://home.attbi.com/~tdl/tdl/hunter/pg23.jpg
Better way - but you won't like it.
I did mine ('83 27h) last season. I had the engine, bulk head, and fuel tank out to replace the bolts on the shaft strut so decided to repack the rudder stuffing box while I could get to it. It was not to bad to do while laying on the fuel tank platform. It has four bolts - 1/2" wrench size I believe, it also uses the same size packing as the stuffing box, 1/4". It was a bear to get two layers of packing down enough that I could get the top back on, two layers came out so two layers went back in. To do this job from the top you will have to get the cables off to release the tension on the rudder shaft, mark them so you know which side they go back on to. If you can get the quadrant off the job will be much much easier. Unfortunately most quadrants have their bolts corroded in so badly the heads wring off before they come out. Also, the stuffing box is attached to a rubber hose which is attached to the hull. Be very careful not to stress the hull tube and break it, or to break the seal on the hose to hull. If you do it's a lot of work to reseal it!
I did mine ('83 27h) last season. I had the engine, bulk head, and fuel tank out to replace the bolts on the shaft strut so decided to repack the rudder stuffing box while I could get to it. It was not to bad to do while laying on the fuel tank platform. It has four bolts - 1/2" wrench size I believe, it also uses the same size packing as the stuffing box, 1/4". It was a bear to get two layers of packing down enough that I could get the top back on, two layers came out so two layers went back in. To do this job from the top you will have to get the cables off to release the tension on the rudder shaft, mark them so you know which side they go back on to. If you can get the quadrant off the job will be much much easier. Unfortunately most quadrants have their bolts corroded in so badly the heads wring off before they come out. Also, the stuffing box is attached to a rubber hose which is attached to the hull. Be very careful not to stress the hull tube and break it, or to break the seal on the hose to hull. If you do it's a lot of work to reseal it!
I remember mine was a bear...
Not sure why, but mine was impossible to do the way its supposed to be done. After several hours of trying to get the packing down enough to except the top nut, I gave up. Dropped the rudder again, set the packing in with the rudder down, then raised it again into position making sure everything stayed in place, then tightened two nuts. No leaks so far and the rudder / wheel turn smoother than ever.
Not sure why, but mine was impossible to do the way its supposed to be done. After several hours of trying to get the packing down enough to except the top nut, I gave up. Dropped the rudder again, set the packing in with the rudder down, then raised it again into position making sure everything stayed in place, then tightened two nuts. No leaks so far and the rudder / wheel turn smoother than ever.
- Status