Thanks to all for your good words on my rudder replacement. A new one was ordered from Foss last week and I'm about to start removing the old rudder. Could someone who has done this before tell me whether the large cover which encloses the steering mechanism has to be removed first. Dave
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Barry
Well Yeah
You'll need to lift the boat or dig a hole beneath the rudder. The entire assembly is about 8 feet tall so the hole must be around 3' deep. In the aft cabin remove the ceiling panel that covers the steering cable and rudder quadrant assembly. Loosen the cable tenson by backing off the nuts at the end of each cable at the quadrant. Remove the bolt that goes through the center of the quadrant and rudder post. Loosen the four bolts on that clamp the two quadrant half together around the rudder post. Support the rudder so it can't fall. Then remove the bolt that holds the retaining collar around the rudder shaft located up top inside the helm seat locker. It's ready to drop down. Have fun(hope you only have to do that once) Another suggestion: check the cutlass bearing in the strut. If it needs to be serviced do it when the rudder is off since rudder removal is required to remove the shaft . aloha, Barry
You'll need to lift the boat or dig a hole beneath the rudder. The entire assembly is about 8 feet tall so the hole must be around 3' deep. In the aft cabin remove the ceiling panel that covers the steering cable and rudder quadrant assembly. Loosen the cable tenson by backing off the nuts at the end of each cable at the quadrant. Remove the bolt that goes through the center of the quadrant and rudder post. Loosen the four bolts on that clamp the two quadrant half together around the rudder post. Support the rudder so it can't fall. Then remove the bolt that holds the retaining collar around the rudder shaft located up top inside the helm seat locker. It's ready to drop down. Have fun(hope you only have to do that once) Another suggestion: check the cutlass bearing in the strut. If it needs to be serviced do it when the rudder is off since rudder removal is required to remove the shaft . aloha, Barry
Where is the boat now!
Dave: Barry is right (he should know, he has done it once or twice). The steering quadrant is bolted to the rudder post. Removing the cover is no big deal. You just need some help so you do not break it. The reason I wondered about where you boat is was the fact that the yard is probably not going to let you dig a hole in the yard if it is paved. In that case you are going to need a lift so you can remove the old one and install the new one. This should be an interesting project. Please let us know what the entire project costs when you are done. Also some pictures would be nice too.
Dave: Barry is right (he should know, he has done it once or twice). The steering quadrant is bolted to the rudder post. Removing the cover is no big deal. You just need some help so you do not break it. The reason I wondered about where you boat is was the fact that the yard is probably not going to let you dig a hole in the yard if it is paved. In that case you are going to need a lift so you can remove the old one and install the new one. This should be an interesting project. Please let us know what the entire project costs when you are done. Also some pictures would be nice too.
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Rod
Dave
When you get ready to put the rudder back in you will have to drill the rudder stock to fit your quadant. Also remember the way the cables go around the quadant they actual cross and one goes on above the other watch careful or mark them. No problem if you mix them up the boat goes right when you turn it left. Makes for easy backing.
When you get ready to put the rudder back in you will have to drill the rudder stock to fit your quadant. Also remember the way the cables go around the quadant they actual cross and one goes on above the other watch careful or mark them. No problem if you mix them up the boat goes right when you turn it left. Makes for easy backing.
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Dave Winiker
Thanks Barry for more good info. Steve, you're right about not digging a hole. To quote the yard manager; "Not in my boat yard!" It'll require 2 lifts; one for the rudder removal so it can be used as a template for drilling the shaft holes and then the second time for rudder replacement. I've already taken some photos of the old rudder and will post them soon. Incidently our local (Chesapeake Bay) sailing rag "Spinsheet" (www. Spinsheet.com) has monthly boat reviews and the Dec. issue reviewed the Hunter 40 and mentioned the Hunter rudder problems among other things. All I can say is been there, done that! I've already taken some photos and will post them next week. Dave
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Bob Rutland
A few more tips.....
A week or so before you get ready to drop the rudder, spray the bolts that hold the guadrant to the post several times with WD40,Liquid Wrench etc. These bolts are stainless and the quadrant is aluminum. Sometimes this will cause electrolysis and seize the bolts. Remember stainless is very brittle and it's very easy to ring off a head. Take it from me, it's no fun on your back drilling out broken bolts! Speaking of drills, make sure you buy drill bits made to drill stainless(for drilling the new post)not just any kind of bit can drill stainless steel. Good Luck, Bob
A week or so before you get ready to drop the rudder, spray the bolts that hold the guadrant to the post several times with WD40,Liquid Wrench etc. These bolts are stainless and the quadrant is aluminum. Sometimes this will cause electrolysis and seize the bolts. Remember stainless is very brittle and it's very easy to ring off a head. Take it from me, it's no fun on your back drilling out broken bolts! Speaking of drills, make sure you buy drill bits made to drill stainless(for drilling the new post)not just any kind of bit can drill stainless steel. Good Luck, Bob
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Dave Winiker
Rdder Replacent
The rudder quadrant was quite easily removed yesterday (thanks to your good advice) and the rudder bottom is resting on the ground awaiting the travel lift. I'll wait until the new rudder arrives, hopefully next week, so we can match the hole positions. Also applied E2000 barrier coat over my sandblasted hull. I'm trying to coordinate installing the new rudder, the last coat of E2000, applying on the anti-fouling paint and launching all with the same lift. (Each lift runs about $100.) I know my wife would love to spend our 40th anniversary (next Friday) helping me paint the bottom.
The rudder quadrant was quite easily removed yesterday (thanks to your good advice) and the rudder bottom is resting on the ground awaiting the travel lift. I'll wait until the new rudder arrives, hopefully next week, so we can match the hole positions. Also applied E2000 barrier coat over my sandblasted hull. I'm trying to coordinate installing the new rudder, the last coat of E2000, applying on the anti-fouling paint and launching all with the same lift. (Each lift runs about $100.) I know my wife would love to spend our 40th anniversary (next Friday) helping me paint the bottom.
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Richard Deep
Just replaced my rudder
Hi Dave, Don't know if this will get to you before your new rudder arrives, but just wanted to pass along a couple of my "learnings" from having replaced my rudder (Foss Foam must be doing a great business!). The new rudder for my '85 H31 was just slightly longer than the old one. This made me a little leery of using the old rudder as a template for the holes. So I ended up installing the new rudder and then marking and drilling the new holes (not an easy task). Second, the new rudderstock was about 50% thicker than the old one (probably good from a structural standpoint). But this meant that there was less margin for error in the "squareness" of the through holes, and that the material was much more difficult to drill through. Finally, I had to fabricate a new emergency tiller, since the old one wouldn't fit on the new (thicker) rudderstock. Good luck! -Richard S/V Discovery
Hi Dave, Don't know if this will get to you before your new rudder arrives, but just wanted to pass along a couple of my "learnings" from having replaced my rudder (Foss Foam must be doing a great business!). The new rudder for my '85 H31 was just slightly longer than the old one. This made me a little leery of using the old rudder as a template for the holes. So I ended up installing the new rudder and then marking and drilling the new holes (not an easy task). Second, the new rudderstock was about 50% thicker than the old one (probably good from a structural standpoint). But this meant that there was less margin for error in the "squareness" of the through holes, and that the material was much more difficult to drill through. Finally, I had to fabricate a new emergency tiller, since the old one wouldn't fit on the new (thicker) rudderstock. Good luck! -Richard S/V Discovery
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Barry
Dave, Before You drill your new rudder ....
Check to see if the original hole in the old rudder and quadrant are square. The "Hunter craftsmen" weren't even close on mine. Appears the drilled the rudder and quadrant together with a hand drill and the hole was about 3/8" higher on one side. Rather than drill another hole in the quadrant I used the quadrant as a pattern to drill the new rudder (and it was not fun) Have Al Walker send you a bushing with the ruder to put on the shaft between the rudder and the hull. Barry
Check to see if the original hole in the old rudder and quadrant are square. The "Hunter craftsmen" weren't even close on mine. Appears the drilled the rudder and quadrant together with a hand drill and the hole was about 3/8" higher on one side. Rather than drill another hole in the quadrant I used the quadrant as a pattern to drill the new rudder (and it was not fun) Have Al Walker send you a bushing with the ruder to put on the shaft between the rudder and the hull. Barry
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Rod
Dave
Just rememberd, that you need to check the swing of the rudder also. Like from left to right. It seems the rudder tub and
Just rememberd, that you need to check the swing of the rudder also. Like from left to right. It seems the rudder tub and
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Dave Winiker
Rudder Replacement Saga
Update: the yard relented and let me dig a hole under the rudder; fortunately it was all sand. The rudder arrived last week as promised, but it was not the shoal draft as ordered(about 8 inches too long.) Foss (Al Walker) said to cut it off and reglass the bottom
Update: the yard relented and let me dig a hole under the rudder; fortunately it was all sand. The rudder arrived last week as promised, but it was not the shoal draft as ordered(about 8 inches too long.) Foss (Al Walker) said to cut it off and reglass the bottom
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