Rudder (pull-down,pull-up line) Replacement

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Jun 13, 2004
1
Hunter 240 Hudson River
Can anyone give me a step by step replacement process for the line that is reponsible for holding down and raising the rudder. The sharp edge at the top of the tubing cut it. I have the boat out of the water. Do I have to remove the entire system from the boat to workon it??
 
D

Drew

No

You have to fiddle with it a bit but it's no big deal when you're on the hard. There's a hole at the top of the rudder, forward and underneath the rudder post, that accepts the downhaul line. What you have to do is drop a new line down the rudder post and feed it through that hole - use enough extra line to work with and don't tie it off yet. Then, at the top end of the line, attach a pulley with a bowline, using the "extra" line you ran down the post. Now, there's also a hole on the back of the rudder, halfway down, that accepts the "up haul" line. Feed a separate line through that hole and up to the top of the rudder post (stay out of the post with this one), where you will feed the other end through the pulley you attached to the separate downhaul. The "up haul" line, on the other side of the pulley, is the end of the line that will be cleated onto the tiller. Now, with the rudder down, lower the pulley into the rudder post, about halfway down. With the rudder in the "down" position, tie a good stop-knot behind the line's hole in the rudder. With the rudder still down, tie a stop-knot behind the hole for the uphaul, on the back of the rudder. Trim the lines, with a hot-knife (if you have one) and you are done. The "uphaul" line does all the work, the pulley and gravity go along for the ride. As far as the "sharp end" of the rudder post cutting the line, there should (may) be a round bar welded to the top of the rudder post - it's there to keep the line off the sharp end - feed the uphaul line through it. BTW, this reminds me of being told once, in school, to write an essay on how to make a peanut butter sandwich - sorry if I made a mess of it! Good luck.
 
W

Wind Dancer

Thank you...but ....

Thanks a lot . So there two lines...I can't see if there is one continuous line or two ??
 
B

Bob

Two separate systems for uphaul and downhaul

I just replaced the lines on my 260 and what I found was the pulley in the tube was incorrect. If you look closely at the diagram in the manual it is shown correctly. The uphaul is a separate system totally outside of the steering tube. One line goes between the rudder and the block. The other line ties off to the bar running between the bale(u shaped bolt at the top of the post), through the block and back to the cleat (thread between bale & bar to eliminate cutting by the tube. This can be a separate line or continue as part of the downhaul system. For the downhaul system there are two key points. First the block must stay between the top of the tube and the horizontal bolt between the tube and the steering system (near top of rudder head). The second item is the block needs two attachment points (mine only had one). I bought a Harken #235W1 Micro block. Starting at the cleat (or the remaining line from the uphaul) go over the bolt/bushing at the top of the tube (not the one at the bale), down into the tube, through the block and back up over the same bushing at the top of the tube. Continue back down the tube to the block where you tie it off to the attachment point on top of the block. Take another shorter line, attach it to the remaining fixed end of the block and drop it down the tube to the hole in the top of the rudder. Tie off as Drew explained. All of the downhaul system can be pre- assembled and dropped down into the tube. Remember to tie off the stopper knot with the rudder in the down position and the block above the lower bolt. Sorry if this is confusing, little too much peanut butter- but the diagram in the book tells the rest of the story! This system gives you the additional purchase and keeps the rudder down.
 
D

Drew

Oh boy

Wind Dancer - let me amend my advice, below. Go buy yourself a sufficient amount of new line, a proper size block (if you don't have one already) and go down to the boat and fiddle with it. It's a little bit tricky but not rocket science - I'm not particularly "handy" but have done the job successfully on my 240 in the past. Bob is right about the diagram in the manual - it is useful. There's one posted here in the 'resource' section if you need it. Good luck.
 
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