Rudder - Making it stay down

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T

Tom Grass

In my previous post I alluded to the broaching problem I had in a recent race in very high winds (gusting to 35 MPH). The general opinion of this forum was that it was primarily due to my rudder riding up; a conclusion I agree with. Now - short of replacing the rudder (always plan 'B') - what are the suggested solutions to this problem? I plan on replacing the hold down lines on the rudder (but do these lines, even when cleated on the tiller - really hold the rudder down???). One other solution I'm contemplating - one that I did successfully on my Catalina 22 ... (this solution came to me from Catalina Direct) ... The solution consisted of drilling two holes through the metal casting at the top of the rudder ... then indenting slightly the rudder directly beneath the drilled holes (when the rudder is in the full down position). Next disassemble the rudder and insert a pop rivet into the drilled hole in the casting - with the rivet head resting between the rudder and the casting. When you lower the rudder - the rivet heads fit into the indentation you made - and hold the rudder in place ... if you hit something - the rivet heads will slide between the rudder and casting. This solution did work on my Catalina 22. What about a Hunter 26? Any other ideas? Thanks all. Tom Grass Grasshopper II 1994 H-26 # 174
 
R

ross

frangible pin

Tom; I recommend using the frangible pin that is standard with the newer H260's. With the rudder down: Drill one 3/8" hole in the metal casting, through the rudder and out the metal casting on the other side. Slide the Hunter plastic frangible pin through the hole. As has been mentioned before, a Bic plastic pen shell works also. The rudder won't creep up unless you hit something and break the pin. Check out the newer H260's, this is how the rudder is designed. Works great.
 
Jun 4, 2004
92
- - Central Florida
A couple of questions

I assume that you can't use a wooden pin due to rot? Also, for my 26, I can't lower the rudder all the way down while it is on the trailer. Any tips on makeing sure you get the drilling right leaning over the stern at the dock?? :)
 
R

ross

pin

The pin needs to be breakable, so it will shear if the rudder hits something submerged. The plastic pin from Hunter has the correct shear strength. I hit a stump last year, the pin broke and no rudder damage. Keep extra pins onboard. I backed my boat and trailer up onto a curb to raise the stern high enough to lower the rudder to drill the hole.
 
A

alan

Chop sticks, dowels and the like...

...swell with water and chafe too much. I took off the rudder assembly and layed it on the dock (not too hard). You could also do it when in the water and the rudder pulled down but can be a problem with a poorly grounded drill. alan
 
Jun 4, 2004
92
- - Central Florida
:)

"I backed my boat and trailer up onto a curb to raise the stern high enough to lower the rudder to drill the hole." So obvious, and yet there I was --- oblivious!
 
M

Mike B.

Try the clamcleat

Another solution is to replace the cleat on top of the tiller with a clamcleat. Has worked very well for me with the shallow waters in the west for the last couple of years.
 
Jun 4, 2004
33
NULL NULL Santa Barbara
Consider the auto release cam cleat

I agree with Mike. I converted to the auto release cam cleat when I first got the boat. It works great. I have hit bottom and had it release three times, yet it has never released except when I hit. Much easier than inserting and removing the pin. You must convert to 1/4 inch line for the down haul, but I have not found that to be a problem.
 
A

alan

Pictures of an installed cam cleat?

I imagine you need non stretch line as even a few degrees of rudder lift causes the helm to become hard. alan
 
F

Frank

Bungee line for down haul

Last Year I made my uphaul line a two to one to make it easier to lift and I made the down haul a bungee so I can cleat it. Now when I hit bottom It gives as needed and will return to the down position when I am past what ever I have bumped.
 
T

Tom Grass

Photos

Frank, Do you have any pictures of your solution? Tom Grass Grasshopper II H 26 #174
 
Jun 4, 2004
33
NULL NULL Santa Barbara
Picture of Cam Cleat

Alan, I left the normal cleat so that I would have something to tie off the uphaul line. The auto release cam cleat has an adjustment that lets you set how hard a pull is required to make it release. I keep mine set on the lowest setting and have never had it release unless I hit bottom. And yes, you do need to use a low stretch line and it needs to be 1/4 inch since that is the largest line that the auto release cam cleat can handle. Tim
 
A

alan

Thanx Tim.

I have a 26 so I would have to mount the cleat on the aluminum tiller. Maybe, the pins work well but after hitting bottom, you have to lean over the stern and remove the remnants of and install a new pin. alan
 
Mar 21, 2004
343
Hunter 25.5 Carlyle, IL
Alan,

Maybe its better to use a sacrificial pin than damage something more expensive.
 
Jun 8, 2004
4
- - Wollongong
New Rudder

Have a 240, and the rudder is either down, or right up! Lack of steerage, esp if a bit rough with no rudder. Presently I'm making a drop rudder to replace the swing rudder. Need an aluminium rudder box bolted onto the shaft, then a new rudder which can slide up and down to required depth. Will post photos when near finished. Coming into summer so should be ready soon. Most trailer yachts now have this type down under.
 
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