Am trying to size an autpilot drive unit and I need to know the size of the rudder for the 37C. Largest horizontal and vertical dimensions will do. (Need to calcualte required torque for a below-decks unit.)
Rudder Dimensions for 37 Cutter
- Thread starter Debra B
- Start date
- Status
Ed Schneck
go meaure your rudder for Debra, just don't slip on the ice in the yard! Hey Debra, just curious why you ruled out a wheel pilot.
go meaure your rudder for Debra, just don't slip on the ice in the yard! Hey Debra, just curious why you ruled out a wheel pilot.
Close Scott.
It is 'en' Scott, not 'ne'. But I forgive you. And I will measure mine this coming weekend if possible. I have not seen Ladylove since November 15 or 16. They have been having snow and ice storms up there. I have no idea what I will find. Someone wrote that the cover had collapsed into the cockpit. But surely someone is closer to their boat and can do the measurement. A guess would be 54" long and 32" at the wide point, right where the rudder stock enters. It tapers to about 28" at the bottom. Another option would be to call the original mfg., Foss Foam(Related Link). They might be able to pull the prints and tell you exactly.
It is 'en' Scott, not 'ne'. But I forgive you. And I will measure mine this coming weekend if possible. I have not seen Ladylove since November 15 or 16. They have been having snow and ice storms up there. I have no idea what I will find. Someone wrote that the cover had collapsed into the cockpit. But surely someone is closer to their boat and can do the measurement. A guess would be 54" long and 32" at the wide point, right where the rudder stock enters. It tapers to about 28" at the bottom. Another option would be to call the original mfg., Foss Foam(Related Link). They might be able to pull the prints and tell you exactly.
Wheel Pilot
One big reason for going for a below-decks pilot is to be able to remove the wheel when at anchor or in the marina to get the damn thing out of the cockpit. It takes up a lot of space. I have an OLD wheelpilot, that seems to have finally died. It seems a little undersized. Gives you a way to steer the boat if the steering cable fails. (direct drive connected to the rudderpost via a separate quadrant (for gear drive) or a tiller (linear or hydrolic drive).
One big reason for going for a below-decks pilot is to be able to remove the wheel when at anchor or in the marina to get the damn thing out of the cockpit. It takes up a lot of space. I have an OLD wheelpilot, that seems to have finally died. It seems a little undersized. Gives you a way to steer the boat if the steering cable fails. (direct drive connected to the rudderpost via a separate quadrant (for gear drive) or a tiller (linear or hydrolic drive).
Rudder dimensions.
Here are those rudder dimensions with a picture(upside down). The long vertical trailing edge is 58". From trailing edge to center of rudder stock is 20". The bottom width is 23". The top slopes to the rudder stock, the drop is 4". It is another 16" down to the "notch" where the leading edge goes forward under the hull. The width of the rudder from trailing edge to most forward edge is 30". By the way. I have a Simrad WP30 and the wheel comes off easily. I keep the main shaft nut hand tight. I remove it and there is a little trim piece that snaps off to let the wheel come off from between the steerer tabs. Takes all of ten seconds and no tools. The autohelm is attached to the pedestal, not to the wheel. And it steers in seven footers and 30 knots of wind. Five years without a problem. And if you are serious about a below decks unit I hope you saw Tom Hadoulias' H37C project in the Photo Forum. He documented the complete install.
Here are those rudder dimensions with a picture(upside down). The long vertical trailing edge is 58". From trailing edge to center of rudder stock is 20". The bottom width is 23". The top slopes to the rudder stock, the drop is 4". It is another 16" down to the "notch" where the leading edge goes forward under the hull. The width of the rudder from trailing edge to most forward edge is 30". By the way. I have a Simrad WP30 and the wheel comes off easily. I keep the main shaft nut hand tight. I remove it and there is a little trim piece that snaps off to let the wheel come off from between the steerer tabs. Takes all of ten seconds and no tools. The autohelm is attached to the pedestal, not to the wheel. And it steers in seven footers and 30 knots of wind. Five years without a problem. And if you are serious about a below decks unit I hope you saw Tom Hadoulias' H37C project in the Photo Forum. He documented the complete install.
Thanks for the info
I was just about ready to go jump in the water with a tape measure...the water has warmed up to about 60 degrees or so, but not my idea of a good time.... I will post something when the get the specs back from the Lewmar tech-support group. (I am currently looking at the Lewmar below-deck drive motor for the autopilot - the post will be in Ask All Sailors) Thanks again!
I was just about ready to go jump in the water with a tape measure...the water has warmed up to about 60 degrees or so, but not my idea of a good time.... I will post something when the get the specs back from the Lewmar tech-support group. (I am currently looking at the Lewmar below-deck drive motor for the autopilot - the post will be in Ask All Sailors) Thanks again!
Wheel Autopilot
I have to put in a plug for my Autohelm 3000 belt drive autopilot. I purchased it in 1986 mail order from Thomas Folkes in UK. In those days Autohelm was a UK company I think. It was $600 which was half the price of the USA version in BoatUS. It has been repaired once (last year) for a cost of $295.00. It is used everytime I go out sailing as it steers much better than I do. It has done ocean passages and short hops between the San Juan Islands and never let me down. It has been totally submerged many times and I have seen it actually steer while the drive motor and the control head were both under water. I could see the light under the water in the cockpit. (another story). I never leave the belt, control head or the drive motor in the cockpit. When I tie up the drive motor and control head go below. The wheel comes off as once the belt is removed there is no obstruction of the wheel. I agree that a below deck autopilot does make a secondary steering system but the one time my cable system didn't work it jammed in the blocks so the rudder couldn't be moved anyway. The lines below the pedistal had to be cut off before the rudder would move. I suppose a below decks autoplilot could have been used after a few hours of messing about but it would not rate as an emergency system for me. The force on a belt drive is nothing like the below deck units but if something goes wrong on the belt drive it slips and does not break anything. The alarm goes off when it slips so you can check for a problem. I am not sure what happens when there is a problem with a below decks unit with over 1000 pounds of force. I suspect something breaks. I will be interested to see what you end up with. Fair winds. Don
I have to put in a plug for my Autohelm 3000 belt drive autopilot. I purchased it in 1986 mail order from Thomas Folkes in UK. In those days Autohelm was a UK company I think. It was $600 which was half the price of the USA version in BoatUS. It has been repaired once (last year) for a cost of $295.00. It is used everytime I go out sailing as it steers much better than I do. It has done ocean passages and short hops between the San Juan Islands and never let me down. It has been totally submerged many times and I have seen it actually steer while the drive motor and the control head were both under water. I could see the light under the water in the cockpit. (another story). I never leave the belt, control head or the drive motor in the cockpit. When I tie up the drive motor and control head go below. The wheel comes off as once the belt is removed there is no obstruction of the wheel. I agree that a below deck autopilot does make a secondary steering system but the one time my cable system didn't work it jammed in the blocks so the rudder couldn't be moved anyway. The lines below the pedistal had to be cut off before the rudder would move. I suppose a below decks autoplilot could have been used after a few hours of messing about but it would not rate as an emergency system for me. The force on a belt drive is nothing like the below deck units but if something goes wrong on the belt drive it slips and does not break anything. The alarm goes off when it slips so you can check for a problem. I am not sure what happens when there is a problem with a below decks unit with over 1000 pounds of force. I suspect something breaks. I will be interested to see what you end up with. Fair winds. Don
Debra, I share Ed's experience
with the Simrad WP30. Works great on our boats, about $800, easy to install yourself, can usually get a wired remote control thrown in for no extra $. Like Ed said, flip off a little trim piece and unbolt wheel, takes less than a minute.
with the Simrad WP30. Works great on our boats, about $800, easy to install yourself, can usually get a wired remote control thrown in for no extra $. Like Ed said, flip off a little trim piece and unbolt wheel, takes less than a minute.
My autopilot is
I have an Autohelm 4000 that I purchased in 1996 on S/V BAD BOY. It has worked fine in all kinds of weather and distance (so far). Easy to install in about 3-4 hours as I remember. I havent had any failures YET and I use it evrytime I go sailing.
I have an Autohelm 4000 that I purchased in 1996 on S/V BAD BOY. It has worked fine in all kinds of weather and distance (so far). Easy to install in about 3-4 hours as I remember. I havent had any failures YET and I use it evrytime I go sailing.
Another Option
Another option that I offer is wind vane self-steering. As powerful as any below deck autopilot and no battery juice required. If you want to steer by the compass or the GPS, add a small tiller pilot interfaced to the vane and you have all the bells and whistles for a lot less $$$. I installed a Cape Horn wind vane, connected directly to the quadrant and use an Autohelm ST800 connected to the vane when under motor or steering to GPS. Cost: $3300 CDN for the vane & $700 CDN for the Autohelm ST800. Very slick, energy efficient and QUIET.
Another option that I offer is wind vane self-steering. As powerful as any below deck autopilot and no battery juice required. If you want to steer by the compass or the GPS, add a small tiller pilot interfaced to the vane and you have all the bells and whistles for a lot less $$$. I installed a Cape Horn wind vane, connected directly to the quadrant and use an Autohelm ST800 connected to the vane when under motor or steering to GPS. Cost: $3300 CDN for the vane & $700 CDN for the Autohelm ST800. Very slick, energy efficient and QUIET.
- Status