I have some play in the rudder, making it knock badly in prop wake and cause the shaft to leak through the stuffing. I'm about to haul out and attempt to replace it, but wanted to check beforehand and see if anyone else on here has done this job and might have some advice for me. Hunter can't give me any specifics on my rudder, though they said typically the bearing is in the hull tube. Any help is appreciated.
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Just completed on my Legend 37
I just relaunched my 37 after replacing the bearings. Job was not too bad, just ackward removing/replacing the rudder and removing the old bearings. I had two helpers to drop and lift the rudder due to the weight. My bearings were sleeve type made of plastic. I had to cut out the old ones using a hole saw then epoxy in the new ones. The new bearings had to be hand measured and custom ordered. When epoxying the new bearings, you have to install the rudder at the same time to ensure bearinsg set in the correct alignment. I now have a very nice smooth rudder rotation with no play. Turned out great!
I just relaunched my 37 after replacing the bearings. Job was not too bad, just ackward removing/replacing the rudder and removing the old bearings. I had two helpers to drop and lift the rudder due to the weight. My bearings were sleeve type made of plastic. I had to cut out the old ones using a hole saw then epoxy in the new ones. The new bearings had to be hand measured and custom ordered. When epoxying the new bearings, you have to install the rudder at the same time to ensure bearinsg set in the correct alignment. I now have a very nice smooth rudder rotation with no play. Turned out great!
Did mine a couple of years' ago
And I ran into the same problems as the other Paul did (1988 L37). So be prepared to have the boat on the hard until the new bearings come in. And be sure of your measurements. Hint: Remove the rudder while the boat is in the slings. Otherwise wou will have to dig a hole to remove it. You'll have to dig a hole, anyway, to replace it, but it'll be easier to dig if the rudder's not in the way.
And I ran into the same problems as the other Paul did (1988 L37). So be prepared to have the boat on the hard until the new bearings come in. And be sure of your measurements. Hint: Remove the rudder while the boat is in the slings. Otherwise wou will have to dig a hole to remove it. You'll have to dig a hole, anyway, to replace it, but it'll be easier to dig if the rudder's not in the way.
thanks
thanks guys; I really appreaciate it. It sounds like I'm dealing with a bearing and not a bushing, huh ... as for hauling/dropping the rudder, I have it worked out with a local boatyard to keep it in the slings while removing the rudder. two questions arise now: 1. how long did it take you to epoxy it back in, paul? Is it something i can do by having it in the slings from close of business and overnight? 2. do either of you have any suggestions of where to look when ordering the new bearing? Did you go someplace local, or could you refer me to someplace nat'l? And if you had to take a stab, how long do you think it might take from the time I place the order? Sorry, I lied; More than 2 questions.
thanks guys; I really appreaciate it. It sounds like I'm dealing with a bearing and not a bushing, huh ... as for hauling/dropping the rudder, I have it worked out with a local boatyard to keep it in the slings while removing the rudder. two questions arise now: 1. how long did it take you to epoxy it back in, paul? Is it something i can do by having it in the slings from close of business and overnight? 2. do either of you have any suggestions of where to look when ordering the new bearing? Did you go someplace local, or could you refer me to someplace nat'l? And if you had to take a stab, how long do you think it might take from the time I place the order? Sorry, I lied; More than 2 questions.
I was lucky
Nick, fortunately, I had a friend who managed a factory in Mexico. He is an engineer and did the measurements with a caliper. He measures the rudder post (stock) and then measured the opening in the hull. Hunter could not provide the the specs. It was during the early spring and the boat was already hauled so they had to dig a hole to get the rudder out. He managed to get the parts mfg'd in a relatively short time. It cost me $40 for the bushing/bearingm but expect to pay more. The rudder was then fitted when the boat was launched and in the slings. This gave me time to sand & paint the rudder in the yard shed. Total time was about 4 weeks. Idea: Maybe the rudder mfgr (Foss Foam) in Florida can help you with the specs? Foss Foam 4480 126th Ave. N. Clearwater, FL 33762-4701 727-577-0478.
Nick, fortunately, I had a friend who managed a factory in Mexico. He is an engineer and did the measurements with a caliper. He measures the rudder post (stock) and then measured the opening in the hull. Hunter could not provide the the specs. It was during the early spring and the boat was already hauled so they had to dig a hole to get the rudder out. He managed to get the parts mfg'd in a relatively short time. It cost me $40 for the bushing/bearingm but expect to pay more. The rudder was then fitted when the boat was launched and in the slings. This gave me time to sand & paint the rudder in the yard shed. Total time was about 4 weeks. Idea: Maybe the rudder mfgr (Foss Foam) in Florida can help you with the specs? Foss Foam 4480 126th Ave. N. Clearwater, FL 33762-4701 727-577-0478.
same boat?
hey Paul, mine's an 82; do you have relatively the same year/model? If so, do you still have the specs for the bearing? and was it a sleeve bearing like the legend 37? I'm trying desperately to cut down on my time on the hard because I live aboard, and though I can deal with couching it for a while, too long would get to me quickly. thanks
hey Paul, mine's an 82; do you have relatively the same year/model? If so, do you still have the specs for the bearing? and was it a sleeve bearing like the legend 37? I'm trying desperately to cut down on my time on the hard because I live aboard, and though I can deal with couching it for a while, too long would get to me quickly. thanks
Other Paul's response...
Hi, Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the rudder and start taking measurements of what size bearings you actually need. Like my follow sailor Paul said, I too carefully measured the rudder post with clippers and in the inside hole diameter. I rebuild by upper bearing support to make stronger so my job was not a simple drop out and replace job. From what I have wittnessed, the old UHMW plastic sleave bearings are epoxied in place. The top one I was able to break free and easily remove. The epoxy does not stick to the bearing plastic...it is there to take up the extra space between the rudder post and bearing itself. This allows you a chance to properly align the rudder as the bearings seat and epoxy kicks. My bottom bearing was pretty well intergrated in the hull from the factory. I used hole saw to cut out old one but it was a very slow process to be sure the hole did not extend into the rudder post itself. I would plan on being in the yard at least 2-3 weeks. You will need to take out rudder, remove old bushings bearings, take measurements, place an order.....wait for delivery, then reinstall....wait for epoxy to set...then maybe you are ready to go. An over night job will not be enough time in my opinion. My boat is a 90 Legend 37. I am very happy with the repair results. Looks great and I think, Better than new! I do not know what your exact design looks like, but from the boats I reviewed in the yard during my 6 weeks on the hard, they all were similar. Good luck. Its not a hard job...just takes time and some man power especially when the rudder gets heavy.
Hi, Unfortunately, you'll need to drop the rudder and start taking measurements of what size bearings you actually need. Like my follow sailor Paul said, I too carefully measured the rudder post with clippers and in the inside hole diameter. I rebuild by upper bearing support to make stronger so my job was not a simple drop out and replace job. From what I have wittnessed, the old UHMW plastic sleave bearings are epoxied in place. The top one I was able to break free and easily remove. The epoxy does not stick to the bearing plastic...it is there to take up the extra space between the rudder post and bearing itself. This allows you a chance to properly align the rudder as the bearings seat and epoxy kicks. My bottom bearing was pretty well intergrated in the hull from the factory. I used hole saw to cut out old one but it was a very slow process to be sure the hole did not extend into the rudder post itself. I would plan on being in the yard at least 2-3 weeks. You will need to take out rudder, remove old bushings bearings, take measurements, place an order.....wait for delivery, then reinstall....wait for epoxy to set...then maybe you are ready to go. An over night job will not be enough time in my opinion. My boat is a 90 Legend 37. I am very happy with the repair results. Looks great and I think, Better than new! I do not know what your exact design looks like, but from the boats I reviewed in the yard during my 6 weeks on the hard, they all were similar. Good luck. Its not a hard job...just takes time and some man power especially when the rudder gets heavy.
going at it
thanks for the advice. I'm pulling her in an hour or two here, will get a good look at it once the rudder's off, consult some marina technician buddies, and maybe keep everyone posted, as I'm sure I'll be stumped in the process a time or two. I found a machine shop near locally - in Annapolis - that could get a day or two turnaround, so that should cut out a lot of my wait time. I'm hoping to have it done in a week, but I realize that's optimistic. We'll see. Thanks again.
thanks for the advice. I'm pulling her in an hour or two here, will get a good look at it once the rudder's off, consult some marina technician buddies, and maybe keep everyone posted, as I'm sure I'll be stumped in the process a time or two. I found a machine shop near locally - in Annapolis - that could get a day or two turnaround, so that should cut out a lot of my wait time. I'm hoping to have it done in a week, but I realize that's optimistic. We'll see. Thanks again.
the latest ...
well for anyone interested, here's the latest: it looks like the bearing/bushing system in my boat is nothing like what's been described to me by just about everyone involved. The stuffing portion and the shaft tube are all one piece of 1/4" thick, foot-long bronze that starts at the stuffing nut, and ends flush with the bottom of the hull. And over time, it's worn, but maybe not enough to add a even a thin shim. I used lab calipers to measure both, and the shaft is 1.5" exactly, while the tube is 1.538" - seems a tiny difference, but that's just in the bottom 1/2" of the tube where I could measure. So my options are: 1. (offered by the local marina's head tech): drill two grease fittings into the top of the tube near the stuffing, replace the shaft, and inject heavy grease, which will keep it from knocking back and forth and will need to be re-injected every couple of years. 2. somehow remove the tube (which I'm told nobody in their right mind would want to do) and have an entirely new one machined. The end result of this would be another 12 inches of bronze-against-stainless friction problem. So I'm debating. Anyone have any experience with a system like this before?
well for anyone interested, here's the latest: it looks like the bearing/bushing system in my boat is nothing like what's been described to me by just about everyone involved. The stuffing portion and the shaft tube are all one piece of 1/4" thick, foot-long bronze that starts at the stuffing nut, and ends flush with the bottom of the hull. And over time, it's worn, but maybe not enough to add a even a thin shim. I used lab calipers to measure both, and the shaft is 1.5" exactly, while the tube is 1.538" - seems a tiny difference, but that's just in the bottom 1/2" of the tube where I could measure. So my options are: 1. (offered by the local marina's head tech): drill two grease fittings into the top of the tube near the stuffing, replace the shaft, and inject heavy grease, which will keep it from knocking back and forth and will need to be re-injected every couple of years. 2. somehow remove the tube (which I'm told nobody in their right mind would want to do) and have an entirely new one machined. The end result of this would be another 12 inches of bronze-against-stainless friction problem. So I'm debating. Anyone have any experience with a system like this before?
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