We had our own fireworks on the Fourth of July. Sailing reefed in brisk 12-20 knot winds we were having a great time. One of our passengers started to feel a little queasy so we decided to head back to the dock. Sailing WITH the wind she was moving along nicely until we hit a wind swirl. CRACK!!!! Rudder snapped off. Not too much fun with 2 inexperienced sailors along who were trying to help. By the time we got the sails down we'd spun completely around twice. Talk about squirrely winds! Everytime she pointed up into the wind it would shift and around we'd go. Our guests were a little concerned (understatement.) Anybody else snapped their rudder? Any suggestions on replacements?
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there are replacements available
And while the replacements aren't overly expensive, they aren't exactly cheap either. I wish someone would make either a solid aluminum rudder replacement or a fiberglass encased steel rudder so that they are stronger and the rudders own weight will hold it down like the swing keel. Too bad I don't have the tools or the know-how or I would go about it myself.
And while the replacements aren't overly expensive, they aren't exactly cheap either. I wish someone would make either a solid aluminum rudder replacement or a fiberglass encased steel rudder so that they are stronger and the rudders own weight will hold it down like the swing keel. Too bad I don't have the tools or the know-how or I would go about it myself.
Maybe this is a decent backup or primary???
A sawzall, grinder and a little glass could put a depressed 260 sailor back on the water in pretty short order with one of these.... http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=7090 Dawned on me that these(although smaller) are somewhat similar sized blades and probably tougher and cheaper since they're everywhere. If not an old rudder, maybe a drop in centerboard from an 18 could be modified to replace the slug shaped, unreliable pig of a rudder I now fret over(maybe thats too direct
). Time to scan the old sailing squad graveyard this weekend. Ahh, another summer project. At the very least I'd like a usable spare onboard for that seemingly inevitable day. Tim, I'm glad you got your crew back safely. Good job. Michael
A sawzall, grinder and a little glass could put a depressed 260 sailor back on the water in pretty short order with one of these.... http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewtopic.php?t=7090 Dawned on me that these(although smaller) are somewhat similar sized blades and probably tougher and cheaper since they're everywhere. If not an old rudder, maybe a drop in centerboard from an 18 could be modified to replace the slug shaped, unreliable pig of a rudder I now fret over(maybe thats too direct
). Time to scan the old sailing squad graveyard this weekend. Ahh, another summer project. At the very least I'd like a usable spare onboard for that seemingly inevitable day. Tim, I'm glad you got your crew back safely. Good job. Michael
I've had 2 rudders brake on me
as described by George. We are long distance cruisers currently on a 7,600 nm trip. The manufacture of the after market rudder was very good on the replacement but it took an average of three days to get the replacement and the last one had a $65.00 shipping charge. The weak point of our beloved 260 is the RUDDER. we don't have the room for carrying a spare on-board. I don't know the answer for this problem but I would recommend you cross connect the rudder and the outboard. WHEN the rudder brakes at least this gives you SOME control using the o/b and throttle say about a 40 degree swing on desired course, enough to get you back or to a slip..... and then start calling to get things rolling. The after market rudder is solid. This time I requested the short version of the rudder hopping that it will help. I believe that the problem is as the boat hobbie horses the stern rides up and down and when this happens the rudder flexes and weakens the rudder just about 5 inches below the thru bolt that holds the rudder in place in our case the final brake sound like a 22 cal. going off. LKYusnret John S/V Baums Rush
as described by George. We are long distance cruisers currently on a 7,600 nm trip. The manufacture of the after market rudder was very good on the replacement but it took an average of three days to get the replacement and the last one had a $65.00 shipping charge. The weak point of our beloved 260 is the RUDDER. we don't have the room for carrying a spare on-board. I don't know the answer for this problem but I would recommend you cross connect the rudder and the outboard. WHEN the rudder brakes at least this gives you SOME control using the o/b and throttle say about a 40 degree swing on desired course, enough to get you back or to a slip..... and then start calling to get things rolling. The after market rudder is solid. This time I requested the short version of the rudder hopping that it will help. I believe that the problem is as the boat hobbie horses the stern rides up and down and when this happens the rudder flexes and weakens the rudder just about 5 inches below the thru bolt that holds the rudder in place in our case the final brake sound like a 22 cal. going off. LKYusnret John S/V Baums Rush
This problem should not have happened
I find it inexcusable for a rudder to have broken under the sailing conditions described for the Hunter 260 (12-20, clear day... about perfect). The rudder on the given boat was simply inadequate for normal use on a reasonable day. Any repair or replacement should involve structural wood with WEST-system epoxy and sheathed in fiberglass or else a molded fiberglass part with integral stiffening stringers. The foam-fiberglass sandwich should never have been installed. An aluminum blade would be expensive and would NOT be forgiving (or fixable) in weather conditions that could bend it or in the event of a grounding. And fiberglass should NEVER be used to sheath solid metal (there will be NO adhesion and then eventual waterlogging). The most important parts (obviously) are the mounting-hardware points, which should be solid wood with G-10 machined-epoxy bearings for the mounting bolts. This will keep the wood from working too much or from soaking up water. A properly shaped, moderately lightweight rudder blade replacement should be an improvement over what was there (I don't think I'd even repair the onld one to the way it was-- there's too obvious a lesson to be learned here!). I am very sorry this failure happened but even more concerned that a builder (especially Hunter) put the inadequate part on in the first place. Don't bother with a replacement from them but get a new, better one made.
I find it inexcusable for a rudder to have broken under the sailing conditions described for the Hunter 260 (12-20, clear day... about perfect). The rudder on the given boat was simply inadequate for normal use on a reasonable day. Any repair or replacement should involve structural wood with WEST-system epoxy and sheathed in fiberglass or else a molded fiberglass part with integral stiffening stringers. The foam-fiberglass sandwich should never have been installed. An aluminum blade would be expensive and would NOT be forgiving (or fixable) in weather conditions that could bend it or in the event of a grounding. And fiberglass should NEVER be used to sheath solid metal (there will be NO adhesion and then eventual waterlogging). The most important parts (obviously) are the mounting-hardware points, which should be solid wood with G-10 machined-epoxy bearings for the mounting bolts. This will keep the wood from working too much or from soaking up water. A properly shaped, moderately lightweight rudder blade replacement should be an improvement over what was there (I don't think I'd even repair the onld one to the way it was-- there's too obvious a lesson to be learned here!). I am very sorry this failure happened but even more concerned that a builder (especially Hunter) put the inadequate part on in the first place. Don't bother with a replacement from them but get a new, better one made.
Connecting outboard and rudder
I would strongly recommend AGAINST this, especially if your goal is to avoid breaking the rudder blade. In ornery conditions the extra force needed to turn the rudder, imparted by the weight of the motor having to turn with it, is just what it'd take the break the rudder. If it hasn't happened to you, you're lucky, for this is NOT a mechanically sound idea. (And I've thought about doing it too.) The idea of using the motor to steer you home is a good one, however. Just lean over and steer it (I do this all the time in harbor), or have an extension (which is a good idea anyway).
I would strongly recommend AGAINST this, especially if your goal is to avoid breaking the rudder blade. In ornery conditions the extra force needed to turn the rudder, imparted by the weight of the motor having to turn with it, is just what it'd take the break the rudder. If it hasn't happened to you, you're lucky, for this is NOT a mechanically sound idea. (And I've thought about doing it too.) The idea of using the motor to steer you home is a good one, however. Just lean over and steer it (I do this all the time in harbor), or have an extension (which is a good idea anyway).
When my rudder snapped winds were close to 25mph and I was jibing. I doubt that the fact that I had the rudder connected to the engine had anything to do with the failure. I fact, this connection made getting the boat under control much easier and the whole experience less of a hassle. On long trips I keep a spare in the aft bunk - it really does not take up much room. Last winter I experimented with making a temporary 36" inch rudder. Have not gotten far with this idea yet - other things on the plate. The H260 has an emergency tiller, why not an emergency rudder? My take on the H260 rudder is told in more detail at this link: http://kobernus.com/hunter260/rudder/rudder.html From time to time I practice steering with sails only. It can be done, just takes some experience.
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