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George Kornreich
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Ed Hughes
Rubrail stain is a problem
I too am frustrated with my rails. I have tried actetone and it works for about a week before the stains come back even worse. Hunter told me to sand & paint! Let me know if you come up with a cleaner, but I don't think anything other than sanding will work. Oh yeah..., Hunter also suggested patio furniture cleaner, it didn' touch the stains.
I too am frustrated with my rails. I have tried actetone and it works for about a week before the stains come back even worse. Hunter told me to sand & paint! Let me know if you come up with a cleaner, but I don't think anything other than sanding will work. Oh yeah..., Hunter also suggested patio furniture cleaner, it didn' touch the stains.
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Steve Lazerow
Marykate works great
I tried Marykate SprayAway this weekend. It was easy to apply and worked great. I found it at Boat US
I tried Marykate SprayAway this weekend. It was easy to apply and worked great. I found it at Boat US
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Bill hall
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John Van Wagoner
Ugly rubrail staining
For the last year (I have owned the boat 18 months) I have battled rubrail staining. Lacquer thinner works very well. It is much less volatile than acetone so it cleans a larger area in the same amount of time (doesn't evaporate as fast). All you need to do is wipe it on and the stains come off. It is easy to buy and I am sure a lot less expensive than Spray Away. I use plastic gloves. I know that acetone is very toxic, even if you only get it on your skin; I would not use it for health reasons except in a very desperate situation. I bet that lacquer thinner isn't great for us also, just not as bad. Take care. It works well and I haven't had any problems with the rail,even after a year. John Van Wagoner
For the last year (I have owned the boat 18 months) I have battled rubrail staining. Lacquer thinner works very well. It is much less volatile than acetone so it cleans a larger area in the same amount of time (doesn't evaporate as fast). All you need to do is wipe it on and the stains come off. It is easy to buy and I am sure a lot less expensive than Spray Away. I use plastic gloves. I know that acetone is very toxic, even if you only get it on your skin; I would not use it for health reasons except in a very desperate situation. I bet that lacquer thinner isn't great for us also, just not as bad. Take care. It works well and I haven't had any problems with the rail,even after a year. John Van Wagoner
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Don Alexander
Rubrail Cleaning
Wynn, Best not to use a strong solvent like acetone or cellulose thinners as it tends to soften the top surface of the PVC which, in turn goes sticky - just like an old fender with oil on it. When new I could not get marks off my rubrail but now that my 376 is 3 years old the PVC has hardened and auto rubbing down compound works a treat. Regards, Don
Wynn, Best not to use a strong solvent like acetone or cellulose thinners as it tends to soften the top surface of the PVC which, in turn goes sticky - just like an old fender with oil on it. When new I could not get marks off my rubrail but now that my 376 is 3 years old the PVC has hardened and auto rubbing down compound works a treat. Regards, Don
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Bob Bass
Stain Pain
I have had a battle with the brown stain on the rubrail of my 450 for over two years. Greased Lightening works the best, used full strength and left on to react before scrubbing. A coat of wax with uv protection has given me about six months of relief. I believe that it is caused by uv and probably compounded by air pollution. Didn't seem to form while in the Abacos. Be very careful when using the Greased Lightening - I was using it on the swim platform area and due to its slickness, ended up in the drink with all my clothes before I knew what hit me (guess I got hit by "lightening" and lived to tell about it). I would not feel comfortable using acetone since just under the rail is a deck/hull seam sealed with 5200 and could result in leaks. Hunter and the rail manufacturer need to come up with some solutions!!!!
I have had a battle with the brown stain on the rubrail of my 450 for over two years. Greased Lightening works the best, used full strength and left on to react before scrubbing. A coat of wax with uv protection has given me about six months of relief. I believe that it is caused by uv and probably compounded by air pollution. Didn't seem to form while in the Abacos. Be very careful when using the Greased Lightening - I was using it on the swim platform area and due to its slickness, ended up in the drink with all my clothes before I knew what hit me (guess I got hit by "lightening" and lived to tell about it). I would not feel comfortable using acetone since just under the rail is a deck/hull seam sealed with 5200 and could result in leaks. Hunter and the rail manufacturer need to come up with some solutions!!!!
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Ed Hughes
Marykate Results
I tried the MaryKAte this weekend, and it is the best cleaner I've used so far, Acetone INCLUDED! But, it did not remove all of the stains. I used a green scratchpad this time, but next time I'll try something a little coarser. Definitely an improvement, my boat looks new again!
I tried the MaryKAte this weekend, and it is the best cleaner I've used so far, Acetone INCLUDED! But, it did not remove all of the stains. I used a green scratchpad this time, but next time I'll try something a little coarser. Definitely an improvement, my boat looks new again!
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Wynn Ferrel
Marykate Sprayaway didn't work for me
I just returned from the boat this weekend after trying Marykate Sprayaway on my 340 rubrail. Didn't touch it. I am, of course, disappointed, especially after seeing that it has worked for other owners. My next option, is to try Marykate Inflatable Boat Cleaner. I plan on calling Marykate tommorrow and asking them what is difference is between the two cleaners. Another piece of information we noticed today. Another owner (376) has a similar problem. He points out that both of our boats face to the east. The sun arcs on the south side of the boat. The staining is significantly worse on the runrail facing the south, so this staining must be effected by the UV light from the sun. I also tried "Mean Green" this weekend, too. No luck either. My next option is to try Marykate's Inflatable boat cleaner per the adive of Jim Bohart, then I think this is in Hunter's lap to resolve. Any additional suggestions would be appreciated. I have taken digital photos of the rails and will send them to Hunter this week for further assistance towards a resolution. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
I just returned from the boat this weekend after trying Marykate Sprayaway on my 340 rubrail. Didn't touch it. I am, of course, disappointed, especially after seeing that it has worked for other owners. My next option, is to try Marykate Inflatable Boat Cleaner. I plan on calling Marykate tommorrow and asking them what is difference is between the two cleaners. Another piece of information we noticed today. Another owner (376) has a similar problem. He points out that both of our boats face to the east. The sun arcs on the south side of the boat. The staining is significantly worse on the runrail facing the south, so this staining must be effected by the UV light from the sun. I also tried "Mean Green" this weekend, too. No luck either. My next option is to try Marykate's Inflatable boat cleaner per the adive of Jim Bohart, then I think this is in Hunter's lap to resolve. Any additional suggestions would be appreciated. I have taken digital photos of the rails and will send them to Hunter this week for further assistance towards a resolution. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
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George Kornreich
Acetone won't disolve your boat!
Because acetone evaporates so quickly, I don't see any liklihood of it damaging the 5200 deck seal under the rubrail or anything else nearby for that matter. Its fast evaporation rate, though, makes it hard to work with, and its cousin, MEK, or other slower evaporating solvents are easier to work with. Acetone is the solvent that is used to apply and cleanup gelcoat, and definately won't harm gelcoat surfaces... in fact, it's a good surface cleaner for gelcoat stains. The way these things work, I believe, it by disolving a microscopically thick layer of the rubrail rubber, and dirt with it. That's why you have to whipe it off with a clean paper towel before the solvent evaporates and the rubber and stain can no longer be wiped away. They DO, however, disolve latex gloves also, so there is a possible problem with toxicity,( though this seems to be minimal with acetone, again because of its rapid evaporation rate). That's why I'm looking for a better and safer cleaner also.
Because acetone evaporates so quickly, I don't see any liklihood of it damaging the 5200 deck seal under the rubrail or anything else nearby for that matter. Its fast evaporation rate, though, makes it hard to work with, and its cousin, MEK, or other slower evaporating solvents are easier to work with. Acetone is the solvent that is used to apply and cleanup gelcoat, and definately won't harm gelcoat surfaces... in fact, it's a good surface cleaner for gelcoat stains. The way these things work, I believe, it by disolving a microscopically thick layer of the rubrail rubber, and dirt with it. That's why you have to whipe it off with a clean paper towel before the solvent evaporates and the rubber and stain can no longer be wiped away. They DO, however, disolve latex gloves also, so there is a possible problem with toxicity,( though this seems to be minimal with acetone, again because of its rapid evaporation rate). That's why I'm looking for a better and safer cleaner also.
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Bob E.
Acetone may "set" the stain
This is just a guess, but maybe once you have tried acetone on the stain it may no longer be possible to remove it with detergent type cleaners. This could be due to the solvent effect of acteone. If so, then you will need to use enough acetone to get it really clean once, and then not use acetone ever again. This could account for the varied results that different owners have had with different products. In general, the order in which you try various products could influence their effectiveness.
This is just a guess, but maybe once you have tried acetone on the stain it may no longer be possible to remove it with detergent type cleaners. This could be due to the solvent effect of acteone. If so, then you will need to use enough acetone to get it really clean once, and then not use acetone ever again. This could account for the varied results that different owners have had with different products. In general, the order in which you try various products could influence their effectiveness.
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Tom Miller
Waiting for Wynn
Wynn, Our rail stains unevenly also. The South side of our '98 376 is much worse than the North. (San Diego) Spent another hour this weekend with Bon Ami and soft scrub. Has anyone heard an "official" recommendation from Hunter or the rail manufacturer yet? Will be attending the Hunter rally at Catalina Island next weekend and plan to ask the Hunter rep's as well as other owners. BTW, 3M rubber and vinyl cleaner doesn't touch the stains. Interested to see what you find. Tom
Wynn, Our rail stains unevenly also. The South side of our '98 376 is much worse than the North. (San Diego) Spent another hour this weekend with Bon Ami and soft scrub. Has anyone heard an "official" recommendation from Hunter or the rail manufacturer yet? Will be attending the Hunter rally at Catalina Island next weekend and plan to ask the Hunter rep's as well as other owners. BTW, 3M rubber and vinyl cleaner doesn't touch the stains. Interested to see what you find. Tom
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Bob Knott
Spray Away
Spray away works great on rub rails, black streaks you name it. It's available at West Marine and just about everywhere else. Use a old cotton tee shirt, spray the stuff on let set for a minute and it wipes right off. Spray away gets the nod for #1 stuff to use on our boat!
Spray away works great on rub rails, black streaks you name it. It's available at West Marine and just about everywhere else. Use a old cotton tee shirt, spray the stuff on let set for a minute and it wipes right off. Spray away gets the nod for #1 stuff to use on our boat!
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Wynn Ferrel
Hunter recommends . . . . .
Jim Bohart says that a dealer service memo was sent out to the dealers in January of 1998 (I think that was the date) advising them to use Marykate Inflatable Boat Cleaner. I plan to call Marykate today and see if IBC is any different (stronger) than Marykate Sprayaway. But, I think I need to try it before I go back to Hunter and tell them I have exhausted all option, Then the ball is in their court for resolution, IMO. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
Jim Bohart says that a dealer service memo was sent out to the dealers in January of 1998 (I think that was the date) advising them to use Marykate Inflatable Boat Cleaner. I plan to call Marykate today and see if IBC is any different (stronger) than Marykate Sprayaway. But, I think I need to try it before I go back to Hunter and tell them I have exhausted all option, Then the ball is in their court for resolution, IMO. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
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Helen P
Rub rail enigma
Wynn, Can't believe the Sprayaway did not work. Even used it on our dinghy and it looks like new. Rep from Marykate was at West Marine when I purchased the Sprayaway. I was looking to purchase the inflatable cleaner when he told me to buy the Sprayaway instead. Said it was much better. So I did, and it seems to work for us. Sorry it didn't for you. Helen
Wynn, Can't believe the Sprayaway did not work. Even used it on our dinghy and it looks like new. Rep from Marykate was at West Marine when I purchased the Sprayaway. I was looking to purchase the inflatable cleaner when he told me to buy the Sprayaway instead. Said it was much better. So I did, and it seems to work for us. Sorry it didn't for you. Helen
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Wynn Ferrel
Just talked to Marykate
I called Marykate to inquire if there were substantial differences between their Sprayaway and their Inflatable Boat Cleaner and was told that they are exactly the same product. Just different packaging to serve different cunsumers. Their phone number is (516) 244-8550. I hope this is helpful information. I think I have exhausted all remedies available to me. I think it is time for me to get Hunter further involved in a solution. Apparently, I have a rather difficult problem that is resistant to the usual solutions. Thanks to everyone for their very helpful suggestions. I will keep you posted should I find a solution. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
I called Marykate to inquire if there were substantial differences between their Sprayaway and their Inflatable Boat Cleaner and was told that they are exactly the same product. Just different packaging to serve different cunsumers. Their phone number is (516) 244-8550. I hope this is helpful information. I think I have exhausted all remedies available to me. I think it is time for me to get Hunter further involved in a solution. Apparently, I have a rather difficult problem that is resistant to the usual solutions. Thanks to everyone for their very helpful suggestions. I will keep you posted should I find a solution. Wynn Ferrel S/V Tranquility
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George Fletcher
Staining worse on the sunny side
Add me as a ditto on the staining being worse on the sunny side of the boat. Like Tom, I am also in San Diego. I am also looking to Hunter to come up with some sort of definitive answer as to not only how to clean the material, but to prevent the continuing problem as well. I find it hard to believe that the materials manufacturer is going to endorse the use of acetone as acceptable. I have suffered a couple of problems in the past that required proactivity on my part to find out that my "problem" was known to the manufacturer but was being addressed on an "as required" basis with the attitude of "we will do you the favor of - - - -. My concern is I don't use something only to be told "you shouldn't have used that product" we have no obligation to now fix it. Hence my obvious frustrations over yet another maintenance issue with no clear solution.
Add me as a ditto on the staining being worse on the sunny side of the boat. Like Tom, I am also in San Diego. I am also looking to Hunter to come up with some sort of definitive answer as to not only how to clean the material, but to prevent the continuing problem as well. I find it hard to believe that the materials manufacturer is going to endorse the use of acetone as acceptable. I have suffered a couple of problems in the past that required proactivity on my part to find out that my "problem" was known to the manufacturer but was being addressed on an "as required" basis with the attitude of "we will do you the favor of - - - -. My concern is I don't use something only to be told "you shouldn't have used that product" we have no obligation to now fix it. Hence my obvious frustrations over yet another maintenance issue with no clear solution.
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Ray
rubbing compound
I don't know if this will work for you but I have been keeping our rub rail in new condition with rubbing compound and a light duty scotch brite. It has removed any staining that I have run into. I apply a thin film of it and let it sit for a couple of minuntes them rub it out with the scotch brite and it is better than when I got the boat. I have used several brands and they all seem to work. good luck
I don't know if this will work for you but I have been keeping our rub rail in new condition with rubbing compound and a light duty scotch brite. It has removed any staining that I have run into. I apply a thin film of it and let it sit for a couple of minuntes them rub it out with the scotch brite and it is better than when I got the boat. I have used several brands and they all seem to work. good luck
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Chris Webb
Try denatured alcohol
My dealer recommended denatured alcohol for the rub rails. It works well, but requires frequent changing of rags as they fill up with residue from the rails quickly. It takes me about an hour to do all the area on my 410, and seems to remove piling rub residue as well as yellow crud. Give it a try!
My dealer recommended denatured alcohol for the rub rails. It works well, but requires frequent changing of rags as they fill up with residue from the rails quickly. It takes me about an hour to do all the area on my 410, and seems to remove piling rub residue as well as yellow crud. Give it a try!
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