Rubrail Installation Ideas

[H33CRich]

In thinking about the project list I posted earlier about work I wanted to do on my new H33, I failed to include a rubrail in the list. I think a rubrail is a nice feature that can protect the gunwales and redirect spray from chop in a seaway. I also like the looks of a nice rubrail.


Another boat on the H33 used boat market had a set installed just below the toe rail. If it were mounted lower (purhaps where the gunwale strip or sheer stripe is painted) it would set it off a bit more (picture attached). Are there opinions on the site for installing/not-installing a rub rail? I am aware of the potential for more maintenance, so my plan is to use low maintence materials like PVC boards (tapered 1.5" x 3", painted hunter green to match canvas) to just below the triangular aluminum bow plate and 1" SS rail cap at the outer edge.

 

[Squidd]

I'm replacing mine, it's below the toe rail on the hull/deck line..

Probably use cumaru and make grabrails to match...

 

[Ed Schenck]

Jim L has rubrails on his H37C. There are comments and pictures in this somewhat unrelated thread: http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=803445&highlight=rubrail .

 

[H33CRich]

Thanks Ed. I think he answered my question about attachment which in his case was through bolting the hull and not attaching to the toerail flange. I can do likewise. I had planned on using 4200 (rather than 5200) since repair of this piece should be anticipated and he also lammented about the PO's adhesive choice of 5200. Butyl tape along the outer eadges of the rail that would touch the hull and 4200 around the bolts and in between may be the way to go. The tape serves as a standoff for proper bedding compund thickness.

 

[Steve Dion]

I do not want to be a naysayer, but it appears that this could be another place to leak.

 

[H33CRich]

I do not want to be a naysayer, but it appears that this could be another place to leak.

Yes, it could be. Although if done right, I should be OK. The hard part will be making sure that 33 holes (each backed with an 1.5" fiberglass fender washer) on each side get sealed properly. The approach to fitment will be to dry fit it with a couple of machine screws to make sure it stays put while drilling the through bolt pilot holes. Then remove the machine screws, apply butyl tape, caulk enough holes to allow bolting before moving to the next section to caulk. I had to do this with my grab rails on my t26. If you apply caulk to early, it will dry before you get to bolting. Then again, I was doing the t26 job when it was really warm. This would be something for April next year when it is still cool. I will have the pieces made (each side will have two halves) in the shop this winter.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Another good place for PlasTeak because it will conform to the hull shape readily. And the bigger plus of being maintenance free. Regardless, the pilot holes in the rail will need to be done beforehand on a drill press. Otherwise how will you ensure a center entry and exit? Then I wonder how you can avoid having a hole where there is a wire, hose, or bulkhead on the other side. Difficult and expensive project for modest reward I think. The scrapes that are on my topsides would not have been prevented by a rub strake.