Well it rained hard last night and I was able to find a couple more leaks and check were I had fixed some. Seems the major leak is coming from the cockpit drain. I'll mix up a gallon or two of water with food coloring and pour it in the cockpit to see what's there. As to my questions - what is the profile of the rub rail for an '86 H23? I'm considering replacing mine. I contacted Taso and Hunter -- they were no help!!! Second -- I'm replacing the fixed factory motor mount with a Garelick mount. I'm currently using a Nissan long shaft 8 hp. Can anyone tell me where it should be mounted with respect to the old mount? Last -- isn't it funny but why do boat makers mount the motor on the port side and the gas cuddy on starboard? Design/engineering/weight distribution issue???
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Leaks
Leaks: I had a couple when I bought my H23 a couple years back. My major leaks were the cockpit drain and the lower rudder pintle. The lower pintle was actually worse than the cockpit drain. Replace your cockpit drain hose and clamps and take a hard look at the lower pintle. I had to fabricate a backing plate for the lower pintle and a teak pad on the exterior before I could get it nice and tight and sealed but it hasn't leaked since. You might also want to replace the hose for the anchor locker drain. I had a minor leak there too. One more spot that can cause you to get some water in the lazarette in a hard rain: the lazarette hatch itself. Not a real good design. I split some very small tubing and sealed it onto the frame to create a gasket. That helped a lot. I also replaced the fixed factory motor mount with a Garelick mount but I'm only using a 2 cycle 5hp Mercury as a kicker. I filled the old mount holes with expoxy, fabricated a teak pad for the exterior and drilled four new holes for the new mount in more or less the same location on the port stern through the pad, the stern and the backing plate. I used a piece of 1/2" marine white board that I got at West Marine as a backing plate. Postings on the subject will warn you that the stern glass isn't too substantial and you don't want to crack it. I drilled one hole through the pad, then a hole through the stern, then a hole through the backing plate. I lined them up and tightened up a single bolt to hold everything in position. Then I carefully positioned and drilled the other three holes through the entire assembly. I don't have any hairline cracks after two years with the new mount but the 5hp Mercury is a LOT lighter than your 8hp Nissan, expecially if that's a 4 stroke engine. Be sure and use an oversized backing plate to spread out the load and prevent the glass from flexing much. Seal it all well! As for the gas cuddy on starboard? Probably just as you guessed, weight distribution. With the galley, the battery and the kicker on port she is out of balance a bit to port as she sits on the buoy without any passengers but only enough to be barely noticeable. You really have to look close.
Leaks: I had a couple when I bought my H23 a couple years back. My major leaks were the cockpit drain and the lower rudder pintle. The lower pintle was actually worse than the cockpit drain. Replace your cockpit drain hose and clamps and take a hard look at the lower pintle. I had to fabricate a backing plate for the lower pintle and a teak pad on the exterior before I could get it nice and tight and sealed but it hasn't leaked since. You might also want to replace the hose for the anchor locker drain. I had a minor leak there too. One more spot that can cause you to get some water in the lazarette in a hard rain: the lazarette hatch itself. Not a real good design. I split some very small tubing and sealed it onto the frame to create a gasket. That helped a lot. I also replaced the fixed factory motor mount with a Garelick mount but I'm only using a 2 cycle 5hp Mercury as a kicker. I filled the old mount holes with expoxy, fabricated a teak pad for the exterior and drilled four new holes for the new mount in more or less the same location on the port stern through the pad, the stern and the backing plate. I used a piece of 1/2" marine white board that I got at West Marine as a backing plate. Postings on the subject will warn you that the stern glass isn't too substantial and you don't want to crack it. I drilled one hole through the pad, then a hole through the stern, then a hole through the backing plate. I lined them up and tightened up a single bolt to hold everything in position. Then I carefully positioned and drilled the other three holes through the entire assembly. I don't have any hairline cracks after two years with the new mount but the 5hp Mercury is a LOT lighter than your 8hp Nissan, expecially if that's a 4 stroke engine. Be sure and use an oversized backing plate to spread out the load and prevent the glass from flexing much. Seal it all well! As for the gas cuddy on starboard? Probably just as you guessed, weight distribution. With the galley, the battery and the kicker on port she is out of balance a bit to port as she sits on the buoy without any passengers but only enough to be barely noticeable. You really have to look close.
M
Mike Misko
H23 Rubrail
Hi Jerry, Check the archives under H23 for rubrail. Many owners have replaced them over the years. Myself, I ran a bead of clear marine silicone caulk along the rubrail/hull joint and the leaks through there stopped. Not the gold standard repair, but it was cheap, fast and effective, and with the clear caulk, not noticeable. 49F, raining, 6' waves on eastern Lake Erie today, more or less the same as every day for the past 2 weeks.
Hi Jerry, Check the archives under H23 for rubrail. Many owners have replaced them over the years. Myself, I ran a bead of clear marine silicone caulk along the rubrail/hull joint and the leaks through there stopped. Not the gold standard repair, but it was cheap, fast and effective, and with the clear caulk, not noticeable. 49F, raining, 6' waves on eastern Lake Erie today, more or less the same as every day for the past 2 weeks.
J
jerry
nissan motor
Thanks Steve -- the Nissan's an oil burner and comes in at about 62# so it shouldn't be too far off from your Merc. I plan to put heavy backing behind the Garelick -- as they say -- better safe than sorry.
Thanks Steve -- the Nissan's an oil burner and comes in at about 62# so it shouldn't be too far off from your Merc. I plan to put heavy backing behind the Garelick -- as they say -- better safe than sorry.
Rub Rail
We had a huge amount of water getting into my boat last year. We checked everywhere. The rub rail was the cause. We took it off, and backed out all deck scrwes and sealed them with 5200, then we ran a bead of caulk around the entire hull deck seam. This eliminated all water in the boat. We just put back on the old rub rail and it works fine. Our motor mount is in the same place as the old one. We just used a backing plate. hope this helps.
We had a huge amount of water getting into my boat last year. We checked everywhere. The rub rail was the cause. We took it off, and backed out all deck scrwes and sealed them with 5200, then we ran a bead of caulk around the entire hull deck seam. This eliminated all water in the boat. We just put back on the old rub rail and it works fine. Our motor mount is in the same place as the old one. We just used a backing plate. hope this helps.
h23 rubrail
I replaced all of the rubrail retainer on my h23. I reused the black bumper. I used a profile I purchased from West Marine. I believe was listed as used on Boston Whalers. I paid freight to have three 20' pieces shipped to the marina. Motor freight required for more than 8'. I can get you the West Marine/ OEM numbers if you want.
I replaced all of the rubrail retainer on my h23. I reused the black bumper. I used a profile I purchased from West Marine. I believe was listed as used on Boston Whalers. I paid freight to have three 20' pieces shipped to the marina. Motor freight required for more than 8'. I can get you the West Marine/ OEM numbers if you want.
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