Rub rail caulking

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Dan Ulrich

There are several posts in the archives where the author states: "caulk only the gap between the top of the rubrail & deck" "Do not caulk the gap below the rub rail". Anyone understand his logic? Similar questions have gone unanswered by the author in the archives, thus my plea to all of you 23 owners. I plan on recaulking and need to understand his reasoning or lack thereof. Thanks in advance, sailors
 
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Chuck

Dan, I have an 85' H23 and I remember the posts. I have not replaced my rub rail yet but I think it was either an issue of expansion of the joint. Either way, the consensus was to use 3M5200. I'm hoping the folks who did this repair will elaborate on this as I don't completly understand either. Good luck, /Chuck S/V Windsongs H23
 
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crazy dave

caulking

Anytime you have a hull to deck joint, the use of 5200 is standard in the industry. I am not sure what exactly the author is asking but let me say that if the seam needs more for what ever reason then do so. If you put the base of the rub rail back on which generally is screwed on, just caulk the crap out of the screw holes when putting the rub rail base back on. I have folks ask if you need to caulk the lip of the rub rail against the deck/hull. I would not as it is not needed. Just make sure you caulk the retaining screws well.
 
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Dan Ulrich

Crazy Dave

Yes, I was, and the original author was refering to the lip of the rub rail gaps between the deck/hull as you eluded to. Although I suppose there would be no harm in doing so, the confusion (question) is why the top (rr to deck) and not the bottom gap (rr to hull) as suggested in the original post? Comprende?
 
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John

I am changing my rub rail now on a 87' H23 and wasn't sure on caulking type, thanks, 3M5200. A good source for the OEM rub rail(white)P/N 878 w/insert (black)P/N 1078 is Hamilton Marine (800)639-2715 ask for Darrell, I ordered a 57' roll and rcvd it yesterday. Last thing I needed before launching for summer.
 
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Tom

Rub Rail answers...

The reason for not doing the bottom is to let any water that does get behind the rub rail to drain out. Like Dave says, the screw holes should be enough. I wouldn't use 5200 on the rub rail or even the screws, as it will make getting the rub rail off, if needed for future repairs, that much more difficult. Fair winds, Tom
 
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crazy dave

tom

Tom, you are correct. If anyone has ever removed 5200, then you will understand that this caulk is used only for certain items as in many cases, it will lift up the gel coat too when removing.
 
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Mark

Rub rail?

Can anyone tell me exactly what a "rub rail" is? The top of my bow between the deck and hull has worn off (black fiberglass plate). I filled the damage with Marinetex but I would like to cover this with sometning more durable like metal. Can anyone tell me where I can get a replacement? Thanks, Mark
 
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