I have discovered that the stringers on my S37 are exposed on the bottom. That is when they glassed in the stringers they left them bare wood on the bottom and they are all Rotting out. I can pick wood away with my finger. I've finally got the bilge dry and expect this wood to get dry and brittle. How big of a problem do I have? It looks like I'm going to have to remove everything from the mast back to the motor?
Rotten Stringers
- Thread starter Nathan Needel
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I guess that you can consider it a problem or
an opportunity. If you plan to do the work yourself it is the opportunity to buy some new tools and materials. You are correct in thinking that everything above them has to come out so you can work. If you hire the work done it will be very expensive. You should be able to do the job yourself in about a week. Choose the new wood for the stringers carefully for decay resistance and quality. Laminated pressuse treated southern yellow pine will be strong enough and durable. Heart white oak is also a good choice as will be cypress, Ipe`, honduras mahagony. This isn't as bad a job as replacing the sills under a house but it is a project.
an opportunity. If you plan to do the work yourself it is the opportunity to buy some new tools and materials. You are correct in thinking that everything above them has to come out so you can work. If you hire the work done it will be very expensive. You should be able to do the job yourself in about a week. Choose the new wood for the stringers carefully for decay resistance and quality. Laminated pressuse treated southern yellow pine will be strong enough and durable. Heart white oak is also a good choice as will be cypress, Ipe`, honduras mahagony. This isn't as bad a job as replacing the sills under a house but it is a project.
Are you sure that the wood contributes strength?
Frequently, on older boats, the wood is used just to form the GRP into a load-bearing shape. Cardboard tubes and V shapes are quite common, and don't give any strength themselves. I would check with a marine architect or at least a surveyor who might know for your particular boat. Good luck!
Frequently, on older boats, the wood is used just to form the GRP into a load-bearing shape. Cardboard tubes and V shapes are quite common, and don't give any strength themselves. I would check with a marine architect or at least a surveyor who might know for your particular boat. Good luck!
Have you thought about CPES?
Once the wood is dry, you could drill holes and inject CPES (Clear, Penetrating, Epoxy Sealant) from Jamestown Distributors. Squirt it into the inside, brush it onto the outside (if there is any wood exposed) wait a week and do it again. That will restore strength to the wood and prevent any more rot. The wood has to be dry, though.
Once the wood is dry, you could drill holes and inject CPES (Clear, Penetrating, Epoxy Sealant) from Jamestown Distributors. Squirt it into the inside, brush it onto the outside (if there is any wood exposed) wait a week and do it again. That will restore strength to the wood and prevent any more rot. The wood has to be dry, though.
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