We finally got the boat back in commission and turned on the hot water heater. It smelled terrible - rotten eggs. What do you think is causing this and how can I fix it? Thanks for your help.
rotten egg water heater
- Thread starter Jacques C
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Several possibilities:
1. the last batch of water you took onboard came from a source thats in dire need of water conditioning.
2. The magnesium anode inside the water heater has been totally consumed and now needs replacement .... the internal metal structure of the heater is now acting as the anode and is releasing sulfur (as hydrogen sulfide) that was previously deposited when the magnesium anode was there.
If the unit didnt originally have an internal magnesium anode, browse the boat catalogues as youre probably soon going to making an unexpected purchase.
3. You now have an internal leak in your water heater because you didnt apply a galvanic isolator to the AC side of your electrical power system at the 'connector socket' for the dockside power cord; and, the exposed internal metal of the heater is acting as the anode to all the other boats on your dock that are on the same AC circuit being 'grounded' via the common green wire ..... and the heater is releasing previously deposited sulfur compounds in the form of Hydrogen Sulfide.
1. the last batch of water you took onboard came from a source thats in dire need of water conditioning.
2. The magnesium anode inside the water heater has been totally consumed and now needs replacement .... the internal metal structure of the heater is now acting as the anode and is releasing sulfur (as hydrogen sulfide) that was previously deposited when the magnesium anode was there.
If the unit didnt originally have an internal magnesium anode, browse the boat catalogues as youre probably soon going to making an unexpected purchase.
3. You now have an internal leak in your water heater because you didnt apply a galvanic isolator to the AC side of your electrical power system at the 'connector socket' for the dockside power cord; and, the exposed internal metal of the heater is acting as the anode to all the other boats on your dock that are on the same AC circuit being 'grounded' via the common green wire ..... and the heater is releasing previously deposited sulfur compounds in the form of Hydrogen Sulfide.
Here is what the folks at Atwood/Seaward say. These are the folks who make many of the OEM heaters :
water heater several times a year will prolong the life of the storage
FLUSHING TO REMOVE UNPLEASANT ODOR
A rotten egg odor (hydrogen
sulfied) may be produced when the electro
galvanic action of the cladding material releases hydrogen from the ater.
if sulfur is present in the water supply the two will combine and produce
an unpleasant smell.
1. Turn off main water supply. Drain the water heater tank and reinstall
drain plug. Remove the pressure-temperature relief valve. Mix
galvanic action of the cladding material releases hydrogen from the ater.
if sulfur is present in the water supply the two will combine and produce
an unpleasant smell.
1. Turn off main water supply. Drain the water heater tank and reinstall
drain plug. Remove the pressure-temperature relief valve. Mix
s
olution of 4 parts white vinegar to two parts water. With a funnel,
carefully pour solution into tank.
2. Cycle water heater with the above solution, letting it run under normal
operation 4-5 times.
3. Remove the drain plug and thoroughly drain all water from the tank.
Flush the water heater to remove any sediment. You may flush the
tank with air pressure or fresh water. pressure may be applied
through either the inlet or outlet valves on the rear of the tank or
through the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling located on the
front of the unit.
carefully pour solution into tank.
2. Cycle water heater with the above solution, letting it run under normal
operation 4-5 times.
3. Remove the drain plug and thoroughly drain all water from the tank.
Flush the water heater to remove any sediment. You may flush the
tank with air pressure or fresh water. pressure may be applied
through either the inlet or outlet valves on the rear of the tank or
through the pressure-temperature relief valve coupling located on the
front of the unit.
TO FLUSH TANK WITH AIR PRESSURE
:
In
sert your air pressure through the pressure-temperature relief valve
coupling. With the drain valve open, the air pressure will force the
remaining water out of the unit.
coupling. With the drain valve open, the air pressure will force the
remaining water out of the unit.
TO FLUSH TANK WITH WATER PRESSURE
:
Fre
sh water should be pumped into the tank with either the onboard
pump or external water pressure. Continue this flushing process for
approximately 5 minutes, allowing the fresh water to agitate the
pump or external water pressure. Continue this flushing process for
approximately 5 minutes, allowing the fresh water to agitate the
s
tagnant water on the bottom of the tank and forcing the deposits
through the drain opening.
4. Replace drain plug and pre
4. Replace drain plug and pre
ssure-temperature relief valve.
5. Refill tank with fresh water that contains no sulphur.
The Atwood water heater is designed for use in a recreation vehicle. If
you use your vehicle frequently or for long periods of time, flushing the
5. Refill tank with fresh water that contains no sulphur.
The Atwood water heater is designed for use in a recreation vehicle. If
you use your vehicle frequently or for long periods of time, flushing the
water heater several times a year will prolong the life of the storage
problem solved
Thanks for all of your help. The water heater was a Seaward which did not have an anode in it. I emptied the water heater and charged the whole fresh water system with the recommended Clorox mixture. I left it in the system with the pump on for 6 hours and then emptied the entire system. Then I filled it again using the RV water filter from Walmart and emptied the system again. I filled the system with the RV filter again and yeah no bad smell when I heated up the water. Thanks for all of your help.
Jacques
Thanks for all of your help. The water heater was a Seaward which did not have an anode in it. I emptied the water heater and charged the whole fresh water system with the recommended Clorox mixture. I left it in the system with the pump on for 6 hours and then emptied the entire system. Then I filled it again using the RV water filter from Walmart and emptied the system again. I filled the system with the RV filter again and yeah no bad smell when I heated up the water. Thanks for all of your help.
Jacques
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