Installing a new porta=pottie yesterday, noticed some wet at the bottom of the port bulkhear. I dook my trusty phillips screwdriver and stuck it right through the bottom. My first thought was - delay my launch date another month while I deal with this. Fortunately, this does not seem like a terrible difficult fix. I think the water intrusion is coming from some additional holes drilled in cabin top by PO for radio coax. My questions are: 1. Has anyone done this job - what to look out for? 2. Material - I am thinking Oak plywood, sealing the edges with epoxy? 3. If I find water in the core above, how do I replace the core (cut from top or bottom?) What to replace it with? This is gonna hurt I'm sure. On the plus side, I just took posession of my new inflatable - I think I'll be "sailing" that for a while. If it's not a violation of the rules I'll post a link for the supplier who I think has a great product at really good prices later - thanks all. Dave
Rotten Bulkhear - O'Day 25
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M
Mike
Look in the archives
Dave, I haven't replaced the bulk head (knock on wood) but if you look in the archives here you'll see explanaitons of how others have. Also witht he core. It depends on how much of the cord is wet. Is it spongy? If not you can use a stiff wire maybe even in a drill bit to get the core material out near the hole then fill with epoxy. For larger spaces you'll have to replace it. Look in the archives. Good Luck, Mike
Dave, I haven't replaced the bulk head (knock on wood) but if you look in the archives here you'll see explanaitons of how others have. Also witht he core. It depends on how much of the cord is wet. Is it spongy? If not you can use a stiff wire maybe even in a drill bit to get the core material out near the hole then fill with epoxy. For larger spaces you'll have to replace it. Look in the archives. Good Luck, Mike
P
Paul P.
Replacing bulkhead
I had a similar situation occur a year ago except it was my starboard side bulkhead and the culprit was a leaky chainplate... ugly what could have happened when I saw that my chainplate had migrated proximally about 3/4" and there was only 1/4 inch of wood left between having 5 holes and having a single bore through the entire bulkead as my chainplate could have ripped right through. Needless to say, sailing was delayed for a lot of the season as the replacement process took place. I had no issues with my foam core, it was just the bulkhead. The trick was to remove the bulkead in sections neatly so that I could use the original as a pattern for creating the replacement. The 'fun' was realted to cutting through the fiberglass tabs that connected the bulkhead to the hull. It was an itchy and messy job- had to then sand that flush prior to wiggling the new bulkhead into place. I used marine grade plywood and sealed the edges well with acrylic resin, saned the entire peice of wood and applied 5 layers of varnish to the entire thing. It looks really nice and actually looks nicer than the original did. Reapplying the fiberglass tab was sone with the help of a very experienced friend who made it look really nice and smooth wehn done. I think that the port side will present some greater challenges due to the size of the bulkhead, but with the head being right there rather than the sink it may not be as tricky. I had to comepletely dissasemble the sink cabinet, and decided to rebuild the counter top as well as the shelves to upgrade it all at once. Be sure to check the sealant at the chainplate!
I had a similar situation occur a year ago except it was my starboard side bulkhead and the culprit was a leaky chainplate... ugly what could have happened when I saw that my chainplate had migrated proximally about 3/4" and there was only 1/4 inch of wood left between having 5 holes and having a single bore through the entire bulkead as my chainplate could have ripped right through. Needless to say, sailing was delayed for a lot of the season as the replacement process took place. I had no issues with my foam core, it was just the bulkhead. The trick was to remove the bulkead in sections neatly so that I could use the original as a pattern for creating the replacement. The 'fun' was realted to cutting through the fiberglass tabs that connected the bulkhead to the hull. It was an itchy and messy job- had to then sand that flush prior to wiggling the new bulkhead into place. I used marine grade plywood and sealed the edges well with acrylic resin, saned the entire peice of wood and applied 5 layers of varnish to the entire thing. It looks really nice and actually looks nicer than the original did. Reapplying the fiberglass tab was sone with the help of a very experienced friend who made it look really nice and smooth wehn done. I think that the port side will present some greater challenges due to the size of the bulkhead, but with the head being right there rather than the sink it may not be as tricky. I had to comepletely dissasemble the sink cabinet, and decided to rebuild the counter top as well as the shelves to upgrade it all at once. Be sure to check the sealant at the chainplate!
Removing the Fiberglass Tabs
I replaced the bulkheads on my O'Day 25 as well. The posting below is pretty similar to what I did. A note on removing the fiberglass tabbing - it's much easier to do using a wood chisel and a rubber hammer. I started off trying to use a Dremel. It worked OK (slower than I thought) on one side, but when I tried the forward side, the angle was all wrong. I went to the hammer and chisel route that a friend had recommended, and found it easier and faster than the Dremel. I too used marine grade plywood, unstained, but varnished (I actually did 10 coats). It looks great.
I replaced the bulkheads on my O'Day 25 as well. The posting below is pretty similar to what I did. A note on removing the fiberglass tabbing - it's much easier to do using a wood chisel and a rubber hammer. I started off trying to use a Dremel. It worked OK (slower than I thought) on one side, but when I tried the forward side, the angle was all wrong. I went to the hammer and chisel route that a friend had recommended, and found it easier and faster than the Dremel. I too used marine grade plywood, unstained, but varnished (I actually did 10 coats). It looks great.
Do you really
need to replace the whole bulkhead? Couldn't you just use some Git Rot or something? Maybe even seal the intrusion and just let it dry? I have the exact same problem...there are a few small spots on the bottom of the bulkhead where it leaked from the thru deck for the VHF. I pulled it let the deck dry and did it right and them got the leak sealed. But now wondering about the bulkhead. Thanks Ed
need to replace the whole bulkhead? Couldn't you just use some Git Rot or something? Maybe even seal the intrusion and just let it dry? I have the exact same problem...there are a few small spots on the bottom of the bulkhead where it leaked from the thru deck for the VHF. I pulled it let the deck dry and did it right and them got the leak sealed. But now wondering about the bulkhead. Thanks Ed
G
gene
25 bulkhead
Ed, his isn't a gitrot job. he needs new bulkhead and all thru deck fittings done as per Don Casey's book. my 2¢. gene
Ed, his isn't a gitrot job. he needs new bulkhead and all thru deck fittings done as per Don Casey's book. my 2¢. gene
If it is really bad,
Get cardboard, a stapler, a razor blade and some rough sandpaper. Cut the fiberglass tabbing off (I used a roto zip, a mask, and some long sleeves). Cut off a piece of the cardboard and start shaping it with the rough sandpaper. When it fits nicely, staple it to the old bulkhead. Keep on going, all around the edge. When you are done, you will have a pattern that you can follow even if part of the bulkhead breaks off in the removal process.
Get cardboard, a stapler, a razor blade and some rough sandpaper. Cut the fiberglass tabbing off (I used a roto zip, a mask, and some long sleeves). Cut off a piece of the cardboard and start shaping it with the rough sandpaper. When it fits nicely, staple it to the old bulkhead. Keep on going, all around the edge. When you are done, you will have a pattern that you can follow even if part of the bulkhead breaks off in the removal process.
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