Just trying to figure out if I screwed up...Just changed the oil and filter and I used Rotella T1 30 weight. I just found out from a friend that has the same engine that he uses 15w-40?
Rotella t30 vs 15W-40 for Yanmar Turbo Deisel?
- Thread starter Bowedtoothdoc
- Start date
- Status
Not a problem, just not optimal.. This will cause no engine damage.. Just remember to use the Rotella T 15-40 next time. Not synthetic.... With the straight 30, take a little more time warming up (maybe 3-4 real minutes) before you apply big loads.. That time can be idling or low rpm coming out of the slip..
Again, no cause to change it out now.. just do it next time.
Again, no cause to change it out now.. just do it next time.
Not a problem. Many companies did not recommend multi-weight oil in diesels in the 1980s is because of of the polymer content that could cause piston-ring sticking. Single weight oils don't use polymers. A good grade 30W oil gives just as good, and sometimes a little better protection then a good 15W-40 diesel oil - but at a much more limited temp range. It depends on whether or not you operate the engine over a wide range of ambient temperatures and most boaters obviously don't. Manufacturers generally recommend multi-weight oil simply because it covers that possibility.
Thanks Guys for the quick replies...Since I use the boat year round, would it make sense to change over to the 15w-40 before winter...or will I be ok until the next recommended change next year?
Speaking as someone originally from New England, Georgia doesn't have winter.
Seriously, I wouldn't bother changing it.
Seriously, I wouldn't bother changing it.
The local Yanmar Distributor in RI said that the now recommended oil is the Shell Rotella T-1 (30 Wt.) oil. That is what I have used and have in now in my 2GM20F engine. No apparent problems.
A yanmar turbo diesel has very different lubrication requirements than a normally aspirated yanmar. The turbocharger's bearings need immediate full lubrication at start up. That means a multi-grade lubricant to Yanmar's spec, changed more often and never 30 weight in the winter.
I was afraid that the requirements would be different due to the turbocharger. I have put only 7 hours on the engine since the oil change. When I switch back to the multi-grade in a month or so do I need to replace the filter as well or should that be ok to leave?
An oil filter should be changed at EVERY oil change. Yes, it may still filter. It may "stop up" and go to bypass. And, all the crap remaining in the old filter, just goes right back into the oil. It's just not worth it. Some folks like to "extend" their filter life, but letting a ten dollar filter stand in the way of a ten thousand dollar engine? Say what?
I keep a filter cutter on my truck, and many times when some old timer starts crying the blues about the filter being good for one more interval, I make 'em a deal. I'll buy the filter myself if it's that much of a concern. The cutter will open a filter, without contaminating it. Take a pair of scissors, and cut out a piece of the element, fold it up, and squeeze the oil out of it with a bench vice, (that's typically black as coal), and in the sunlight, look at the metal particles in it. If that stuff slips through, and some of it will, well.....
Not once have I had to buy a filter after this realization.
And, this is a good test to see what is giving up in the engine. With a very good lens, you can identify the metal, and tell if it's bearing material, ring material, etc, etc.
The oil manufacturer will tell you to change the oil out at whatever interval, (usually too soon), and leave the filter through two or more changes.
The filter manufacturer says, change the filter out at your service, and leave the oil alone until you've been through two or more filters.
Hmmm...
One more thing. Because I'm probably obsessive, compulsive, or both, I'll change the oil just because I'm in the mood. Have changed it with less than 5 hours on it, and a new engine, 30 minutes.
How many times has anyone ever heard, after the poor neglected diesel loses the will to live, remarked, "You know, I sure wish I hadn't changed that oil so much".
I can hear the crickets in the background..
I keep a filter cutter on my truck, and many times when some old timer starts crying the blues about the filter being good for one more interval, I make 'em a deal. I'll buy the filter myself if it's that much of a concern. The cutter will open a filter, without contaminating it. Take a pair of scissors, and cut out a piece of the element, fold it up, and squeeze the oil out of it with a bench vice, (that's typically black as coal), and in the sunlight, look at the metal particles in it. If that stuff slips through, and some of it will, well.....
Not once have I had to buy a filter after this realization.
And, this is a good test to see what is giving up in the engine. With a very good lens, you can identify the metal, and tell if it's bearing material, ring material, etc, etc.
The oil manufacturer will tell you to change the oil out at whatever interval, (usually too soon), and leave the filter through two or more changes.
The filter manufacturer says, change the filter out at your service, and leave the oil alone until you've been through two or more filters.
Hmmm...
One more thing. Because I'm probably obsessive, compulsive, or both, I'll change the oil just because I'm in the mood. Have changed it with less than 5 hours on it, and a new engine, 30 minutes.
How many times has anyone ever heard, after the poor neglected diesel loses the will to live, remarked, "You know, I sure wish I hadn't changed that oil so much".
I can hear the crickets in the background..
I agree with Chris but isn't funny how an engine manufacture such as Yanmar states changing the filter every other oil change...
I would not bother changing a filter with 10-20 hrs on it. What is the purpose? It is not the cost, it is just the P.I.A.
I didn't mean to "rant" about this, and certainly didn't mean to offend anyone. It's just that the diesel is near and dear to my heart. No more perfect engine has ever been devised. What other power plant can do something for so long, with so little attention. Clean oil and fuel, fresh air and oil filter, and it'll keep pounding along for many years. Utter simplicity.
I will agree that some filters are indeed, a major pain in the ass to change. More often than not, even bagging one or whatever, it looks like the Exxon Valdez just got wrecked right where I'm working. But it's necessary for a long life. I submit; an external filter. And in doing so, a BIG filter. It's kind of silly the size of some of these filters, considering the pain it suffers.
Why Yanmar says this is actually kind of puzzling. Who am I to argue with a multi-million dollar engine manufacturer. But I disagree on so many levels. I am a LONG way from one of these "conspiracy" idiots, but it almost sounds like the planned obsolescence of the engine. It's certainly not the first time.
A lot of people don't know, (and it's not like it's a big secret or anything), but the majority of oil, hydraulic, etc, filters have a bypass. At a certain restriction criteria, the oil no longer filters, and just bypasses on back to the engine. It's a fail-safe, for when the filter gets clogged, it won't shut down the flow to the engine, or blow chunks out of the filter back into the engine either. Or blow up the filter for that matter. The bypass rating is on the spec sheets for about any filter that I know of. So when people look at the oil gauge, and with good pressures thinks, well, the filter must be working fine, because the pressures are good. Yes and no. The pressure IS good, but in the clogged scenario, it's just bypassing the filter altogether.
It's horrifying just to think about..
My ol' Dodge has 313 thousand miles on it right now. It doesn't smoke, or leak. I'll kick the oil and filters out of it if I have some spare time. It must be working.
One more thing. ((I'm starting to sound like Columbo here). But in a conversation I was having with the representative of a major oil company, stated, "If you're adding something to your oil to provide a desired result; you are using the wrong oil".
I will agree that some filters are indeed, a major pain in the ass to change. More often than not, even bagging one or whatever, it looks like the Exxon Valdez just got wrecked right where I'm working. But it's necessary for a long life. I submit; an external filter. And in doing so, a BIG filter. It's kind of silly the size of some of these filters, considering the pain it suffers.
Why Yanmar says this is actually kind of puzzling. Who am I to argue with a multi-million dollar engine manufacturer. But I disagree on so many levels. I am a LONG way from one of these "conspiracy" idiots, but it almost sounds like the planned obsolescence of the engine. It's certainly not the first time.
A lot of people don't know, (and it's not like it's a big secret or anything), but the majority of oil, hydraulic, etc, filters have a bypass. At a certain restriction criteria, the oil no longer filters, and just bypasses on back to the engine. It's a fail-safe, for when the filter gets clogged, it won't shut down the flow to the engine, or blow chunks out of the filter back into the engine either. Or blow up the filter for that matter. The bypass rating is on the spec sheets for about any filter that I know of. So when people look at the oil gauge, and with good pressures thinks, well, the filter must be working fine, because the pressures are good. Yes and no. The pressure IS good, but in the clogged scenario, it's just bypassing the filter altogether.
It's horrifying just to think about..
My ol' Dodge has 313 thousand miles on it right now. It doesn't smoke, or leak. I'll kick the oil and filters out of it if I have some spare time. It must be working.
One more thing. ((I'm starting to sound like Columbo here). But in a conversation I was having with the representative of a major oil company, stated, "If you're adding something to your oil to provide a desired result; you are using the wrong oil".
No offense, but how much oil do you think you leave in the pan everytime you change the oil?
No as much as in the filter. My engine does not burn oil and when i drain the oil i get most it out ( yes i actually measured the waste including the oil in the filter). If there is an easy way to get the most out, I try to do it. Probably won't make a difference but I try and be complete when I can. I actually enjoy working on my boat.
I believe Steve's point is that unless one drains the oil using the drain plug at the bottom of the pan, there maybe more oil left in the pan that the dip-stick-tube extraction method isn't going to reach. There is probably more there (left behind) then we would like to think. Measuring the amount you remove against the amount you put in doesn't mean you removed everything, only what you can reach.
When the engine says it takes x amount of quarts and you can almost get that amount out.... Well as best as we can do is all I'm saying. After i drain the old out and replace the filter I put in exactly what is called for from the manual and it reads to the full line on the stick..... I am not a professional mechanic but it seems to me that I am getting pretty much all of the stuff out.
- Status