My jib halyard's outer braid seperated from the inner strand, and is now about a foot shorter than the inner strand. I'm curious if a repair is as simple as cutting them even and then melting the end. Or do I need to replace the entire line?
Rope Repair
- Thread starter Slow Mo^cean
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Tie the good end to something solid and starting from the attachment point apply a strong pull to the outter cover while allowing your hands to slip along the outer cover. You may have to do this several times. This will stretch the outer cover back over the core. When it is once again even sew on two whippings about three inches apart on each end.
on the boat we crew, that happened 2 years ago and the owner repaired it similarly to what Ross describes and then he turned the sheet around so that its not in the winch!! we are still using it that way!! Ugly but it works...... his boat, his choice.
:dance:A little "farm humor" if you don't mind........
Sliding the outer cover along the inner core is called "milking" the line if I remember correctly. Just be careful not to step in a big "pile" (aka cow pie) and watch out for the cow's tail!
Sliding the outer cover along the inner core is called "milking" the line if I remember correctly. Just be careful not to step in a big "pile" (aka cow pie) and watch out for the cow's tail!
yes. milk the cover back into place..... the lock stitch it .... Use some whipping twine on a large needle.... you can find and assortment of specialty needles at just about any drugstore or fabric store. Whipping twine at your local chandlery.
Pierce straight through the line one way then down a 1/4 " pushing the needle through on the same plane... after three complete stitches...... move 90deg and insert three more going up at about the same spacing. Now tie the two ends together with al reef knot and bury it into the cover so the outside is smooth. Leave a little space at the end to trim it even in case it's become raggedy.... I wrap masking tape around the end and use a razor blade to trim.... not scissors or a knife...too difficult for a clean cut.
Now..... whip the end..... take the twine and make a loop at the end.... lay it on the rope's end so the loop is partially above the end.... begin winding the spool end of the line tightly around the rope.... covering the loop, working towards the top, make sure you don't cover the end of the loop at the bottom of the whipping...... it should be fairly tight and evenly laid.... no overruns.... an inch is a good length for the whipping..... then cut the line and insert the new end through the loop..... now.... carefully pull on the old end.... it will grab the new end and pull it under the whipping.... invisible yet locking the whole thing.... cool... huh. Trim the extra and you have a seamanlike whipped end that you can be proud of and won't hurt anyone with burnt, melted dacron.
Pierce straight through the line one way then down a 1/4 " pushing the needle through on the same plane... after three complete stitches...... move 90deg and insert three more going up at about the same spacing. Now tie the two ends together with al reef knot and bury it into the cover so the outside is smooth. Leave a little space at the end to trim it even in case it's become raggedy.... I wrap masking tape around the end and use a razor blade to trim.... not scissors or a knife...too difficult for a clean cut.
Now..... whip the end..... take the twine and make a loop at the end.... lay it on the rope's end so the loop is partially above the end.... begin winding the spool end of the line tightly around the rope.... covering the loop, working towards the top, make sure you don't cover the end of the loop at the bottom of the whipping...... it should be fairly tight and evenly laid.... no overruns.... an inch is a good length for the whipping..... then cut the line and insert the new end through the loop..... now.... carefully pull on the old end.... it will grab the new end and pull it under the whipping.... invisible yet locking the whole thing.... cool... huh. Trim the extra and you have a seamanlike whipped end that you can be proud of and won't hurt anyone with burnt, melted dacron.
Thanks for the explanation Vic. Ross kind of scared me when he told me to sew something.. The last time I picked up a needle was to try and sew a button back onto my pants in Vegas for an insurance expo. The emergency stitch lasted the trip from my room to the cab, and then broke again. The whole expo I was going gangster style, pulling my pants up every 5 minutes..
Awh man! Buy a palm and some needles and learn the most basic of a sailors skills. To sew on a whipping take an arm span of twine, thread the needle. push the needle straight through the diameter of the line turn it 90 degrees and push the needle through again. Wind on turns to a length equal to the diamet of the line and push the needle through the line, Lead the twine to the other end of the turns and push the needle hrough the line to emerge 90 degrees from the entry. lead the twine to the other end and sew the twine through the line to emerge 90 degrees around. Continue until you have a whipping with four frapping turns. http://www.animatedknots.com/sailmakers/index.php
Ah, pictures, even better. I know I need to learns me some needle and thread work. I just never enjoyed it because I have a problem holding tiny needles and thread with my big old gorilla hands.
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Here's the one I discribed earlier.......... it's different from Ross' it's called a "common whipping" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Common_whipping
As added useless information........ when I was a kid, the "common whipping" meant something entirely different if you had a stern father.
As added useless information........ when I was a kid, the "common whipping" meant something entirely different if you had a stern father.
A big stopper knot (figure-8) at the end of the line can serve a purpose as well.
* The line will not zip up inside the mast (internal halyards).
* The line will not zip through blocks (genoa and spin sheets).
* Gives a better grip. Often I tie 2, about 10 inches apart, so that it's easy to grab a line that's pulled into a block to it's end.
... and it will prevent core slipage and excess fraying, should the whipping fail (which is VERY unlikely with a sewn whipping).
* The line will not zip up inside the mast (internal halyards).
* The line will not zip through blocks (genoa and spin sheets).
* Gives a better grip. Often I tie 2, about 10 inches apart, so that it's easy to grab a line that's pulled into a block to it's end.
... and it will prevent core slipage and excess fraying, should the whipping fail (which is VERY unlikely with a sewn whipping).
You mean like this.
Try not to sew your shorts into the splice.
All U Get
WOW
AUG i had no idea you knew Roger Whittaker the British singer....regards
woody
PS hope this works
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BEbRRNgOFz0&feature=related
just a little entertainment for your listening pleasure
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well......now I say "spanking" and it evokes an entirely different reaction.And now that you're an adult???
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