Hi...When we bought our boat, it came to us rigged with a 150% Genoa, sheeted through the outboard jib tracks...the boat has inboard tracks, though it's the first boat I've ever had with them. We recently put a 130 on the furler, and feel that moving the jib blocks forward on the outboards will be fine... What's the best use of the inboards? Thanks, Bill
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
E
Ed Kennedy
V
Vic
G
Gord May
G
Gord May
J
Jim LeBlanc
Use the outer tracks
As others have explained, the inner tracks can only be used with a small jib (usually a 110 or less) and only when close hauled and trying to point as high as possible. The outer tracks are where you need to sheet the 130, since the sail will over lap the spreaders. You should be able to sheet it in tight against the spreader using the outer tracks. Position the blocks along the tracks (forward of where they were for the 150) where there will be equal tension on the leach and the foot when the jib is pulled in tight (the line of the sheet to the jib should point to a spot about half way up the luff of the sail). Why did you decide to use the 130 for roller furling instead of the 150?
As others have explained, the inner tracks can only be used with a small jib (usually a 110 or less) and only when close hauled and trying to point as high as possible. The outer tracks are where you need to sheet the 130, since the sail will over lap the spreaders. You should be able to sheet it in tight against the spreader using the outer tracks. Position the blocks along the tracks (forward of where they were for the 150) where there will be equal tension on the leach and the foot when the jib is pulled in tight (the line of the sheet to the jib should point to a spot about half way up the luff of the sail). Why did you decide to use the 130 for roller furling instead of the 150?
R
Ralph Kuhn
Any factory rigging guide published?
Thanks for posting. It's not a rookie question at all!! I've had my 26x for about a month and am still searching for the best placement of blocks with the 100% jib. (Mine didn't come with a Gennie - I'm putting it on my Santa wish list for next year.) Saturday I sailed in 12-15 knots on Lake Ontario with a reefed main - mostly reaching. Didn't like the shape of the #2 jib at all, using the forward track and the aftmost block location. (There were 4 kids and grandma on board and I wasn't going to test the heeling limits with that group!)
Thanks for posting. It's not a rookie question at all!! I've had my 26x for about a month and am still searching for the best placement of blocks with the 100% jib. (Mine didn't come with a Gennie - I'm putting it on my Santa wish list for next year.) Saturday I sailed in 12-15 knots on Lake Ontario with a reefed main - mostly reaching. Didn't like the shape of the #2 jib at all, using the forward track and the aftmost block location. (There were 4 kids and grandma on board and I wasn't going to test the heeling limits with that group!)
T
Tim Stodola at Doyle Sails
Inboard vs outboard
Hello All, Inboard sheet tracks have to do more with sheeting angle, not necessarily Sail size. Boats with a narrow rig stance, ie.. Shrouds are inboard of Sheer or lifelines, often have inboard tracks to allow close hauled sheeting of the Genoa. A narrower angle allows higher pointing. Many older boats whose shrouds go to the rail have tracks on the rail as well. Generally speaking, Genoa tracks are very rarely much further inboard than the shroud base. The blade or working jib may be sheeted, or have a seperate track inboard of the shrouds to allow for a closer upwind sheeting angle.
Hello All, Inboard sheet tracks have to do more with sheeting angle, not necessarily Sail size. Boats with a narrow rig stance, ie.. Shrouds are inboard of Sheer or lifelines, often have inboard tracks to allow close hauled sheeting of the Genoa. A narrower angle allows higher pointing. Many older boats whose shrouds go to the rail have tracks on the rail as well. Generally speaking, Genoa tracks are very rarely much further inboard than the shroud base. The blade or working jib may be sheeted, or have a seperate track inboard of the shrouds to allow for a closer upwind sheeting angle.
B
Bill
Thanks everyone--good things to think on--Jim (+)
We wanted to have a slightly smaller sail for the Fall months on the Chesapeake when the winds pick up--our boat has a fairly narrow beam and heels quickly...the 130 lets me feel a little more in control of her...probably more indicative of my experience level than anything else. Bill
We wanted to have a slightly smaller sail for the Fall months on the Chesapeake when the winds pick up--our boat has a fairly narrow beam and heels quickly...the 130 lets me feel a little more in control of her...probably more indicative of my experience level than anything else. Bill
Response for Ralph re sail trim manual
The setup you had was correct for reducing heel when sailing in heavier air. Sliding the block all the way aft on the track tensions the foot of the jib more than the leech. This flattens or reduces the draft in the lower half of the sail, which depowers it. At the same time, the leech opens and spills air off the top half, thereby reducing heel. Congratulations, you get 10 points! By the same token, if the wind is really light, move the block forward on the track. This closes the leech and increases the draft ("fattens") the lower half of the sail, both of which will increase power. For the final touch, move everybody over to the leeward side of the cockpit. The weight will heel the boat to leeward and the sails will fall into the desired shape. That way, all the wind will be available for power and none will be wasted on shaping the sails. If you're really serious about learning more about sail trim, I suggest two books. The first is Don Guilette's Guide to Sail Trim (available from HOW). It's not a comprehensive book, but it's written in very simple terms and is easy to follow. "A Manual of Sail Trim" by Stuart Walker (about $25 at West Marine) is more for performance sailors and racers. It's a bit harder to read, but covers just about any sail trim question you can think of. The diagrams are excellent too. Don't try to read the whole book at first, treat it like a reference manual and look up what you need. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
The setup you had was correct for reducing heel when sailing in heavier air. Sliding the block all the way aft on the track tensions the foot of the jib more than the leech. This flattens or reduces the draft in the lower half of the sail, which depowers it. At the same time, the leech opens and spills air off the top half, thereby reducing heel. Congratulations, you get 10 points! By the same token, if the wind is really light, move the block forward on the track. This closes the leech and increases the draft ("fattens") the lower half of the sail, both of which will increase power. For the final touch, move everybody over to the leeward side of the cockpit. The weight will heel the boat to leeward and the sails will fall into the desired shape. That way, all the wind will be available for power and none will be wasted on shaping the sails. If you're really serious about learning more about sail trim, I suggest two books. The first is Don Guilette's Guide to Sail Trim (available from HOW). It's not a comprehensive book, but it's written in very simple terms and is easy to follow. "A Manual of Sail Trim" by Stuart Walker (about $25 at West Marine) is more for performance sailors and racers. It's a bit harder to read, but covers just about any sail trim question you can think of. The diagrams are excellent too. Don't try to read the whole book at first, treat it like a reference manual and look up what you need. Good luck. Peter H23 "Raven"
- Status
- Not open for further replies.