My wife and I are pleasure sailors with little interest in racing. We have a 1994 Hunter 26'and are interested in purchasing a foresail roller furling. We bought the boat used and I assume the jib is the original working jib that comes standard on a Hunter 26'. It appears the CDI roller furling is a popular model on HOW. How does one determine which model roller furling they need, how difficult is it to install and is it necessary to have the jib trimmed to fit properly on the roller furling? Thanks in advance for the help. Sincerely, Monte Brown
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Sailrite's list
Here's a link to Sailrite's list. They say the 26 takes a FF2 with 6" linkplates. I'm planning to do this also, but it may be a while. The sail has to be modified for at least 2 reasons: the hanks have to be replaced by a continuous luff tape, and the length of the luff most likely will have to be reduced. You'll also want to consider adding UV protection to the leech and foot, unless your sail is already made of UV resistant material. If your sail is a genoa, you might need foam sewn into the luff so the sail will roll up better. I have the 100% jib, and the Doyle sail loft told me foam wasn't needed. I got an estimate of around $300 for the changes, including UV protection. If you're handy with a sewing machine, Sailrite has detailed instructions for doing all these mods yourself: http://www.sailrite.com/techtalk/uvrollerfurling.htm It's worth a look even if you hire a loft to do it.
Here's a link to Sailrite's list. They say the 26 takes a FF2 with 6" linkplates. I'm planning to do this also, but it may be a while. The sail has to be modified for at least 2 reasons: the hanks have to be replaced by a continuous luff tape, and the length of the luff most likely will have to be reduced. You'll also want to consider adding UV protection to the leech and foot, unless your sail is already made of UV resistant material. If your sail is a genoa, you might need foam sewn into the luff so the sail will roll up better. I have the 100% jib, and the Doyle sail loft told me foam wasn't needed. I got an estimate of around $300 for the changes, including UV protection. If you're handy with a sewing machine, Sailrite has detailed instructions for doing all these mods yourself: http://www.sailrite.com/techtalk/uvrollerfurling.htm It's worth a look even if you hire a loft to do it.
look at 3 possibilities
Ah, one of my favorite subjects here. Unlike the vast majority of users of this site, I don't like CDI. I have one on the 1995 H26 I bought in 1999. My previous boat had a Harken. There is no comparison in the quality of parts. Harken rules. My CDI has had constant problems and I have rebuilt it several times now. The last time (with the generous help of many HOW contributors) helped many of the problems, but didn't fix them. Frankly the list is too long for this forum. I have found that the parts are not high quality and when I contacted the company directly they were not only not helpful, they were downright rude. And that was the owner. My Harken on the other hand was the highest quality. I rarely had problems with it and when I did they were very easily fixed. The company was 1000% behind their product, even sending me a part I lost (the sail loading guide) and refusing to accept payment. CDI also claims to provide parts and service at no charge, but that was not my experience. At least not with simple advice. There are some issues with Harken, too. They are quite a bit more expensive. To me this isn't a problem because on inspection (and through experience) you clearly get what you pay for. There may be a problem with the luff, however. I don't think Harken's is flexible, making trailering more difficult. There is a compromise. My sailmaker turned me on to the Schaefer Flexible Furler. It seems to be made with nearly the quality of the Harken, but with the flexible luff track. He sells all three, and prefers the Schaefer for small boats. I still have my CDI because it is functional. Barely, but functional. When I finally get so fed up with it that I sink it I'll probably go with the Schaefer, because of the flexibility issue. The moral of this long story is...find someone who sells all three. Get their advice on quality and don't be afraid to spend a few extra dollars for quality that will be headache free. Good luck...
Ah, one of my favorite subjects here. Unlike the vast majority of users of this site, I don't like CDI. I have one on the 1995 H26 I bought in 1999. My previous boat had a Harken. There is no comparison in the quality of parts. Harken rules. My CDI has had constant problems and I have rebuilt it several times now. The last time (with the generous help of many HOW contributors) helped many of the problems, but didn't fix them. Frankly the list is too long for this forum. I have found that the parts are not high quality and when I contacted the company directly they were not only not helpful, they were downright rude. And that was the owner. My Harken on the other hand was the highest quality. I rarely had problems with it and when I did they were very easily fixed. The company was 1000% behind their product, even sending me a part I lost (the sail loading guide) and refusing to accept payment. CDI also claims to provide parts and service at no charge, but that was not my experience. At least not with simple advice. There are some issues with Harken, too. They are quite a bit more expensive. To me this isn't a problem because on inspection (and through experience) you clearly get what you pay for. There may be a problem with the luff, however. I don't think Harken's is flexible, making trailering more difficult. There is a compromise. My sailmaker turned me on to the Schaefer Flexible Furler. It seems to be made with nearly the quality of the Harken, but with the flexible luff track. He sells all three, and prefers the Schaefer for small boats. I still have my CDI because it is functional. Barely, but functional. When I finally get so fed up with it that I sink it I'll probably go with the Schaefer, because of the flexibility issue. The moral of this long story is...find someone who sells all three. Get their advice on quality and don't be afraid to spend a few extra dollars for quality that will be headache free. Good luck...
Gerard, a question
I had pretty much eliminated the Harken and Snapfurl because they don't feature an internal halyard. If you are using the boat's halyard on the jib, how do you lower the mast? Do you use a method that doesn't involve the jib halyard, or do you remove the sail from the foil to free up the halyard? I'm hoping I can leave the jib rolled up on the headstay while trailering, so I was leaning toward the CDI for that reason.
I had pretty much eliminated the Harken and Snapfurl because they don't feature an internal halyard. If you are using the boat's halyard on the jib, how do you lower the mast? Do you use a method that doesn't involve the jib halyard, or do you remove the sail from the foil to free up the halyard? I'm hoping I can leave the jib rolled up on the headstay while trailering, so I was leaning toward the CDI for that reason.
additional info
When a sail is sent off to a sail loft, they will ask you which side you will furl your sail out or which side the furling drum line will be on which side. This determines which side the Sunbrella UV cover will be sewn on. If you are going to sew this on yourself beawarre you will need a heavy duty sewing machine. The only problem will be sewing around the grommets and/or headstay board. There is really no perfect furler but for the trailerablility aspect, I would not consider metal extrusions for they will likely ding or scratch the boat, easy to bend and break and harder to secure to the mast. I like CDI and of course I know Gerard as his boat came from me. what I am concerned about is what is going on with his furler but more so with obtainig parts and customer service from CDI. I would like to ask if there have been any other occurences out there and be honest with me guys. I carry alot of weight in the industry. Ok Jimbo, I am heavy buzzle butt and will admit it. What about you Jimbo? But serious, let me know and Gerard call me on Monday at 7 am Crazy Dave Condon
When a sail is sent off to a sail loft, they will ask you which side you will furl your sail out or which side the furling drum line will be on which side. This determines which side the Sunbrella UV cover will be sewn on. If you are going to sew this on yourself beawarre you will need a heavy duty sewing machine. The only problem will be sewing around the grommets and/or headstay board. There is really no perfect furler but for the trailerablility aspect, I would not consider metal extrusions for they will likely ding or scratch the boat, easy to bend and break and harder to secure to the mast. I like CDI and of course I know Gerard as his boat came from me. what I am concerned about is what is going on with his furler but more so with obtainig parts and customer service from CDI. I would like to ask if there have been any other occurences out there and be honest with me guys. I carry alot of weight in the industry. Ok Jimbo, I am heavy buzzle butt and will admit it. What about you Jimbo? But serious, let me know and Gerard call me on Monday at 7 am Crazy Dave Condon
Don't do it your self
It seems to me that their may be some downplaying of the effort and skill involved in altering the sail. A sailmaker has at least an $ 800 sewing machine and special tools just for working with sail cloth. I have a friend who has invested thousands in equipment and books and he is still a begining sailmaker. I highly recommend that you try making some patches on an old sail with your home sewing machine before you start to modify you favorite headsail at home. I'm not sure about roller furling, but it might pay to get professional help setting it up as well. If nothing else I'd get help from someone who uses the same kind of furler.
It seems to me that their may be some downplaying of the effort and skill involved in altering the sail. A sailmaker has at least an $ 800 sewing machine and special tools just for working with sail cloth. I have a friend who has invested thousands in equipment and books and he is still a begining sailmaker. I highly recommend that you try making some patches on an old sail with your home sewing machine before you start to modify you favorite headsail at home. I'm not sure about roller furling, but it might pay to get professional help setting it up as well. If nothing else I'd get help from someone who uses the same kind of furler.
Furler
I did a lot of research, and paid close attention to this forum, and read about all the problems associated with the CDI furler. I chose the Schaefer Snap Furler, and have had no problems in the year that I've had it installed. Easy to install, and when I want to lower the mast, the sail is easy to remove and re-install. Any guestions, you can e-mail me. Dan S/V 'Unruly Julie'
I did a lot of research, and paid close attention to this forum, and read about all the problems associated with the CDI furler. I chose the Schaefer Snap Furler, and have had no problems in the year that I've had it installed. Easy to install, and when I want to lower the mast, the sail is easy to remove and re-install. Any guestions, you can e-mail me. Dan S/V 'Unruly Julie'
Tom and CD (Crazy Dave)
Tom- I don't have to take my sail off because I still have the CDI the boat came with installed. My jib is pretty beat and I'll be replacing it in the next year or so. At that time I plan to switch to the Schaefer Snapfurl (which I incorrectly called the Flexible Furler yesterday). If my sail wasn't so beat I wouldn't trailer with it on anyway. It's going to pick up dirt and grease from the road no matter what you do if you leave it on. Not good. As Dan mentioned, taking a sail down and putting it back up is easy and will take no more than an extra 5 minutes. It's actually easier without the internal halyard. I'll have to add a halyard for my spinnaker. I also only trailer once a year to go on a sailing vacation. Other than that I just pull it across the street from the boat yard to the launch and keep it in a slip. My advise is to go for the best quality (if you plan to have the boat for more than 5 years) especially since you get year 'round use of your boat, and take good care of your sails. Good luck and happy sailing... Dave- I can't call Monday a.m. because the weather for the weekend looks great and I'll be at the boat! I will call though because I always get a chuckle when I talk to my Crazy Dave! Just so everyone knows, I went 1000 miles out of my way to buy my boat from Dave! I think I've gone as far as I can with this furler Dave. The luff extrusion is shot, twisted all to...well you know. And we've discussed my experience with the company. When's another good time to call you? After 8 a.m. please as you know I'm out late most nights. At least I know you're crazier than me. You takin' good care of yourself in the heat???
Tom- I don't have to take my sail off because I still have the CDI the boat came with installed. My jib is pretty beat and I'll be replacing it in the next year or so. At that time I plan to switch to the Schaefer Snapfurl (which I incorrectly called the Flexible Furler yesterday). If my sail wasn't so beat I wouldn't trailer with it on anyway. It's going to pick up dirt and grease from the road no matter what you do if you leave it on. Not good. As Dan mentioned, taking a sail down and putting it back up is easy and will take no more than an extra 5 minutes. It's actually easier without the internal halyard. I'll have to add a halyard for my spinnaker. I also only trailer once a year to go on a sailing vacation. Other than that I just pull it across the street from the boat yard to the launch and keep it in a slip. My advise is to go for the best quality (if you plan to have the boat for more than 5 years) especially since you get year 'round use of your boat, and take good care of your sails. Good luck and happy sailing... Dave- I can't call Monday a.m. because the weather for the weekend looks great and I'll be at the boat! I will call though because I always get a chuckle when I talk to my Crazy Dave! Just so everyone knows, I went 1000 miles out of my way to buy my boat from Dave! I think I've gone as far as I can with this furler Dave. The luff extrusion is shot, twisted all to...well you know. And we've discussed my experience with the company. When's another good time to call you? After 8 a.m. please as you know I'm out late most nights. At least I know you're crazier than me. You takin' good care of yourself in the heat???
Dan, a few questions about your Snapfurl...
Did you have to modify the headstay to install it? What about the deck clearance? I'm not sure if this applies to the 260, but the U-bolt for the headstay on the 26 (see picture) is about 6" below deck level, and the CDI setup requires reducing the headstay length and adding a 6" tang to elevate the drum. Where does your control line go? Did you add a cleat for it in the cockpit, and if so, where? I was impressed at first with the Snapfurl, and now I'm thinking that keeping the sail on the headstay on the road maybe isn't such a good idea anyway, especilly since the boat's in the water most of the time.
Did you have to modify the headstay to install it? What about the deck clearance? I'm not sure if this applies to the 260, but the U-bolt for the headstay on the 26 (see picture) is about 6" below deck level, and the CDI setup requires reducing the headstay length and adding a 6" tang to elevate the drum. Where does your control line go? Did you add a cleat for it in the cockpit, and if so, where? I was impressed at first with the Snapfurl, and now I'm thinking that keeping the sail on the headstay on the road maybe isn't such a good idea anyway, especilly since the boat's in the water most of the time.
Attachments
Snap Furler
Tom My 260 is different from your picture, and I did not have to modify the forestay. There is no problem with deck clearance for the drum. I did add the fair lead, and routed the furling line down the port side. One thing I did add was a rubber sleave under the line eyes, because they were just a bit too big for the life line stantions. On the 260, there is a cleat right next to the stantion nearest the cockpit, but I don't use it. Once the sail is furled, I tie the sheets around the sail, and it doesn't unfurl. It's been a great addition to my boat, and after reading the stories about the CDI and one instance were the guy almost lost his mast due to the modified forestay breaking, I'm glad I choose the snap furler. Hope this helps. You can contact me directly through this site if you need any more help. Dan S/V 'Unruly Julie'
Tom My 260 is different from your picture, and I did not have to modify the forestay. There is no problem with deck clearance for the drum. I did add the fair lead, and routed the furling line down the port side. One thing I did add was a rubber sleave under the line eyes, because they were just a bit too big for the life line stantions. On the 260, there is a cleat right next to the stantion nearest the cockpit, but I don't use it. Once the sail is furled, I tie the sheets around the sail, and it doesn't unfurl. It's been a great addition to my boat, and after reading the stories about the CDI and one instance were the guy almost lost his mast due to the modified forestay breaking, I'm glad I choose the snap furler. Hope this helps. You can contact me directly through this site if you need any more help. Dan S/V 'Unruly Julie'
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