I have a 1989 33.5. I need to replace my roller furling line, it is a Hood system with a continous loop. My problem is that the splice is too big to get through the eyes on deck. I've checked the manual and i am using the right size line. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks
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What do you mean by the term
"splice"? Are you suggesting that you splice the existing line to make it longer? If so, I caution you that the line may not spool evenly and correctly when furled. This could cause uneven operations (from the drum and thru the blocks) and even complete hang-ups during a furl. For the price of the length of line in that small of a diameter, I would replace it with the proper length and not even think of splicing.
"splice"? Are you suggesting that you splice the existing line to make it longer? If so, I caution you that the line may not spool evenly and correctly when furled. This could cause uneven operations (from the drum and thru the blocks) and even complete hang-ups during a furl. For the price of the length of line in that small of a diameter, I would replace it with the proper length and not even think of splicing.
Hood LD roller furler requires a splice....
Dear Jay, The Hood LD roller furler requires a splice because it is a "Continous" line and no rope is manufactured in a loop. Sorry for the sarcasm but I owned a Hood "Line Drive 810" furler that came on my Hunter 31. We used it for 2 summers and replaced it with Hood's upgrade to the 800 Single Line furler for about $500. This is a kit sold by the Pompanette Company (Hood) that includes a new drum and, for additional cost, a new furling line. It can be installed with the mast up, without removing the foils. I let the marina do it over the winter and they only charged me one hour's time. (Good thing I did because Pompanette forget to include the furling line I had paid for and the marina got them to send it quickly) Had to send back the LD drum to get credit. (Have to check my VISA and see if they gave me that credit) I gave it to my wife for our anniversary in March and it may have saved our marriage. She absolutely loves it. As for your problem, it is possible to slice the loop for the Line Drive furler so the the splice will go through the fairleads and bend enough to hold tight on the furling pulley, but you have to know what you are doing. Make sure you strip the center of the rope properly. Get a pro to do it. A properly spliced rope will be not larger than the original, just a little less flexible and about 80% as strong as virgin line. Give him the pulleys and fairleads it has to go through so he/she can thread them on before the rope is spliced. The loop can be installed on the furler pulley after splicing by removing the keeper from the front of the pulley and the stripper from the rear of the pulley, and the front stay from the bow of the boat. (Be sure you have the mast braced with a halyard to the bow before you remove the front stay) Good luck.
Dear Jay, The Hood LD roller furler requires a splice because it is a "Continous" line and no rope is manufactured in a loop. Sorry for the sarcasm but I owned a Hood "Line Drive 810" furler that came on my Hunter 31. We used it for 2 summers and replaced it with Hood's upgrade to the 800 Single Line furler for about $500. This is a kit sold by the Pompanette Company (Hood) that includes a new drum and, for additional cost, a new furling line. It can be installed with the mast up, without removing the foils. I let the marina do it over the winter and they only charged me one hour's time. (Good thing I did because Pompanette forget to include the furling line I had paid for and the marina got them to send it quickly) Had to send back the LD drum to get credit. (Have to check my VISA and see if they gave me that credit) I gave it to my wife for our anniversary in March and it may have saved our marriage. She absolutely loves it. As for your problem, it is possible to slice the loop for the Line Drive furler so the the splice will go through the fairleads and bend enough to hold tight on the furling pulley, but you have to know what you are doing. Make sure you strip the center of the rope properly. Get a pro to do it. A properly spliced rope will be not larger than the original, just a little less flexible and about 80% as strong as virgin line. Give him the pulleys and fairleads it has to go through so he/she can thread them on before the rope is spliced. The loop can be installed on the furler pulley after splicing by removing the keeper from the front of the pulley and the stripper from the rear of the pulley, and the front stay from the bow of the boat. (Be sure you have the mast braced with a halyard to the bow before you remove the front stay) Good luck.
Need Smaller Splice
The splice needs to be smaller. If you know how braided splices are done you might be able to salvage the one you have by cutting a few strands of the core in the splice to reduce the bulk. This could be done one strand at a time until it goes through the deck fairleads. The fallback is to redo the splice. If the splice is too large to go through the fairleads then it will probably cause a problem going around the drum too. I'd be willing to look at it with you - give me a call at 698-0922.
The splice needs to be smaller. If you know how braided splices are done you might be able to salvage the one you have by cutting a few strands of the core in the splice to reduce the bulk. This could be done one strand at a time until it goes through the deck fairleads. The fallback is to redo the splice. If the splice is too large to go through the fairleads then it will probably cause a problem going around the drum too. I'd be willing to look at it with you - give me a call at 698-0922.
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