Well we were sailing along Sat afternoon in 20kt+ winds on a reefed main a very small jib doing OK I thought . When Bang!!! Followed by a horrible ripping sound, Yes it was the mainsail. It ripped at the reefing point. I admit it entirely My fault, I had one of the 2 center ties, the ones that hold the extra sail when reefed, way to tight. Anyway, I will patch it for the remainder of this year and order a new mainsail this winter. My Question to the group is should I go with OMG or maybe this is my chance to get someting exotic Mylar maybe? I am trying to place a positive spin on this. What have other people replaced the original mainsail with, any suggestions or thoughts.
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it depends ...
It depends on how you want to use your boat. I've bought 3 new headsails in different boats over the years and I've never chosen what I call "exotic" materials twice the price the usual Dacron or whatever it's called by different manufacturers. I like to enjoy the good cruising in our archipelagoe and never race - not even when I spot a similar boat nearby (I used to trim a little extra many years ago, but not any more). But surely, if you often meet tough winds it's good to be able to flatten out your main. So my choice would be a standard mainsail - and of course, if you got the extra cash - go for an asymetric spinaker or genaker. toomas
It depends on how you want to use your boat. I've bought 3 new headsails in different boats over the years and I've never chosen what I call "exotic" materials twice the price the usual Dacron or whatever it's called by different manufacturers. I like to enjoy the good cruising in our archipelagoe and never race - not even when I spot a similar boat nearby (I used to trim a little extra many years ago, but not any more). But surely, if you often meet tough winds it's good to be able to flatten out your main. So my choice would be a standard mainsail - and of course, if you got the extra cash - go for an asymetric spinaker or genaker. toomas
New Mainsail Options
Don't sell yourself short without looking at your options. I priced a 'standard' dacron mainsail at say $1,100, then I asked for an upgrade to more of a racing main by going to a loose footed main, full top batten and longer 'IOR' type battens plus two reef points , draft stripes and sail numbers. The sailmaker measured the mast bend with and without the backstay adjuster 'on'and maximized the allowable roach. I have a terrific sail which fits the boat EXACTLY and with the 'extras' cost maybe $3-400 more. You don't need to go 'high-tech' on the sailcloth and the Dacron will last longer anyway.
Don't sell yourself short without looking at your options. I priced a 'standard' dacron mainsail at say $1,100, then I asked for an upgrade to more of a racing main by going to a loose footed main, full top batten and longer 'IOR' type battens plus two reef points , draft stripes and sail numbers. The sailmaker measured the mast bend with and without the backstay adjuster 'on'and maximized the allowable roach. I have a terrific sail which fits the boat EXACTLY and with the 'extras' cost maybe $3-400 more. You don't need to go 'high-tech' on the sailcloth and the Dacron will last longer anyway.
Give High Tech Cloth a pass
Unless you are a racer, you won't see a big improvement from spending money on high tech fibers. When buying a new main for a 260 you can two ways. More performance, or easier use and durability. The stock sails are an inexpensive compromise. For more performance you'll need to talk to your sailmaker about the kind of sailing and conditions you meet. For a ligh wind area you might want full battens with more roach than your stock sail and a shelf foot . For moderate winds an open foot might offer better and the standard sail area might be better. For high winds you'll want a deep reefing point. Full battens hold the sail in the most efficient shape best so performance sailors want them. For easy cruising and daysailing I'd highly recommend getting a true cruising mainsail. That means no battens, no headboard, hollow roach and a reduced sail area. This will slow your boat in light winds by about 1/2 knots which means you will lose most light air races. However, this makes it easy to raise and lower the main on any point of sail. It gives the boat slightly less weather helm for better balance in increased winds. It reduces heal and it will last a long long time. Sometimes it is hard to find a sailmaker who will make a main this way because many sail lofts just have a few designs that they size for all boats. However, I found several lofts that will make the old style crusing main. I ended up getting mine from Sabre sails because they build quality racing sails too so I new the quality was there.
Unless you are a racer, you won't see a big improvement from spending money on high tech fibers. When buying a new main for a 260 you can two ways. More performance, or easier use and durability. The stock sails are an inexpensive compromise. For more performance you'll need to talk to your sailmaker about the kind of sailing and conditions you meet. For a ligh wind area you might want full battens with more roach than your stock sail and a shelf foot . For moderate winds an open foot might offer better and the standard sail area might be better. For high winds you'll want a deep reefing point. Full battens hold the sail in the most efficient shape best so performance sailors want them. For easy cruising and daysailing I'd highly recommend getting a true cruising mainsail. That means no battens, no headboard, hollow roach and a reduced sail area. This will slow your boat in light winds by about 1/2 knots which means you will lose most light air races. However, this makes it easy to raise and lower the main on any point of sail. It gives the boat slightly less weather helm for better balance in increased winds. It reduces heal and it will last a long long time. Sometimes it is hard to find a sailmaker who will make a main this way because many sail lofts just have a few designs that they size for all boats. However, I found several lofts that will make the old style crusing main. I ended up getting mine from Sabre sails because they build quality racing sails too so I new the quality was there.
What were
you using to hold the excess sail. If you use rope then it sure will rip. I use bungee shock cord and never tie off too tight.
you using to hold the excess sail. If you use rope then it sure will rip. I use bungee shock cord and never tie off too tight.
Ripped Main
I tore my main twice -- both times at the last grommet before the jiffy reef grommet. Both times it was from having that sail tie too tight and the jiffy reef not tight enough. I was able to patch up my sail with sail tape and thread and finally sent my sail off to get repaired. Cost was minimal and it came back as good as new! Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
I tore my main twice -- both times at the last grommet before the jiffy reef grommet. Both times it was from having that sail tie too tight and the jiffy reef not tight enough. I was able to patch up my sail with sail tape and thread and finally sent my sail off to get repaired. Cost was minimal and it came back as good as new! Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
Mark - how do you use the bungee cord?
Mark - can you explain how you use the bungee cord? Did you remove and replace the original reef ties that dangle from the reef points?
Mark - can you explain how you use the bungee cord? Did you remove and replace the original reef ties that dangle from the reef points?
tying in the reef
I've always been concerned about tying in the bunt of a reefed sail. If the reefing line lets go, then all the strain is transferred to the inner grommets on the sail, and they're not designed to take that. Many sailing books suggest using a lite duty line for tying up the bunt, but I think even a small diameter line is strong enough to tear the sail. Some sort of bungee or velcro system is definitely in order for this purpose. Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
I've always been concerned about tying in the bunt of a reefed sail. If the reefing line lets go, then all the strain is transferred to the inner grommets on the sail, and they're not designed to take that. Many sailing books suggest using a lite duty line for tying up the bunt, but I think even a small diameter line is strong enough to tear the sail. Some sort of bungee or velcro system is definitely in order for this purpose. Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
Question for Jim
Jim where did you send it for the repair? also does anyone have a loose footed main?
Jim where did you send it for the repair? also does anyone have a loose footed main?
North Sails Atlanta
Chris, I sent my main to North Sails Atlanta, www.thesailloft.com e-mail: boatpeople@thesailloft.com for repair. I also sent my jib to them for UV addition. I asked for a 2nd reef to be put in my main (which would have added to their profit) but they advised against it. They said my 1st reef was so high up that if that wasn't enough reef, I shouldn't be out with my sails up anyway! I found them on the Internet. The guys name is Wayne and he sent me a card for a $20 discount. Said I could use it or give it to a friend. If you want to try to use my discount, I'll give you the invoice number from the work order -- or, I could send you the card. Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
Chris, I sent my main to North Sails Atlanta, www.thesailloft.com e-mail: boatpeople@thesailloft.com for repair. I also sent my jib to them for UV addition. I asked for a 2nd reef to be put in my main (which would have added to their profit) but they advised against it. They said my 1st reef was so high up that if that wasn't enough reef, I shouldn't be out with my sails up anyway! I found them on the Internet. The guys name is Wayne and he sent me a card for a $20 discount. Said I could use it or give it to a friend. If you want to try to use my discount, I'll give you the invoice number from the work order -- or, I could send you the card. Jim Schaff s/v Savannah
Jiffy reef grommet
I took a sailing course recently where the instructor was a big advocate of tying a line or sailtie through the jiffy reef grommet and around the boom for extra support for the reefed clew. Cheap insurance if the reefing line lets go.
I took a sailing course recently where the instructor was a big advocate of tying a line or sailtie through the jiffy reef grommet and around the boom for extra support for the reefed clew. Cheap insurance if the reefing line lets go.
Are our sails the same RIck
Rick when I reef there are two brass eyelets placed at thirds along the sail. I simply pass a bungee cord through them and wrap around the boom and sail. The bungee cords have those plastic ends on them meaning that you pull the bungee through the plastic and it sort of locks into the plastic bit. (clear as mud hey) If I am sailing in really heavy winds intead of using one for each grommet I use one really long peice of bungee so that there is lots of stretch left should anything like the reef line fail.
Rick when I reef there are two brass eyelets placed at thirds along the sail. I simply pass a bungee cord through them and wrap around the boom and sail. The bungee cords have those plastic ends on them meaning that you pull the bungee through the plastic and it sort of locks into the plastic bit. (clear as mud hey) If I am sailing in really heavy winds intead of using one for each grommet I use one really long peice of bungee so that there is lots of stretch left should anything like the reef line fail.
Sail ties on my 240
I have sail ties passed through the small reef grommets on my 240. I have knots on either side of the sail so the tie won't slide side to side. When we reef we gather the loose sail around the boom and tie off.
I have sail ties passed through the small reef grommets on my 240. I have knots on either side of the sail so the tie won't slide side to side. When we reef we gather the loose sail around the boom and tie off.
Sounds the same
Mark - I do believe that mine are as Ken described. The short line passes through the hole with a knot on each side to keep it in place. It sounds like you don't leave your bungee cords fixed to the sail but thread them through each time when you reef the main. I think I prefer them to be hanging there already when I need them. It does seem in order to have something that will give before the sail tears.
Mark - I do believe that mine are as Ken described. The short line passes through the hole with a knot on each side to keep it in place. It sounds like you don't leave your bungee cords fixed to the sail but thread them through each time when you reef the main. I think I prefer them to be hanging there already when I need them. It does seem in order to have something that will give before the sail tears.
Jim - second reef refusal
I got the same line from a sail loft here. He basically refused because the existing reef is already where one normally puts a second reef.
I got the same line from a sail loft here. He basically refused because the existing reef is already where one normally puts a second reef.
second reef point
In the past some have pointed out that the reef point on the 23.5, 24, 26 and 260 is already at what most sail lofts would consider to be the 2nd reef point. I've considered adding an additional reef lower down, so that there is an intermediate step between full canvas and the factory reef. Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
In the past some have pointed out that the reef point on the 23.5, 24, 26 and 260 is already at what most sail lofts would consider to be the 2nd reef point. I've considered adding an additional reef lower down, so that there is an intermediate step between full canvas and the factory reef. Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
Second Reef Point
I agree with Ron. We were out last week and reefed the sail in a stiff wind. Found that unless I had real good speed we couldn't get the nose across the wind. An intermediate point option to reef on the sail might have given me the extra speed to cut across the wind. When we shook the reef out and sailed full sail, had no problem tacking across the wind. Ron, by the way,if you get tired of improving your boat you can come down here anytime and help work on mine.
Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26
I agree with Ron. We were out last week and reefed the sail in a stiff wind. Found that unless I had real good speed we couldn't get the nose across the wind. An intermediate point option to reef on the sail might have given me the extra speed to cut across the wind. When we shook the reef out and sailed full sail, had no problem tacking across the wind. Ron, by the way,if you get tired of improving your boat you can come down here anytime and help work on mine.
Paul H S/V Linda Belle 95 H26Paul
Paul, when I'm DONE improving my boat, I promise you'll be the first person I come help. Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
Paul, when I'm DONE improving my boat, I promise you'll be the first person I come help. Ron Mehringer H26 Hydro-Therapy
added "first" reef...
Hi all, On my 1999 H260, I had an additional reef point added mid way between the foot and the reef point provided by Hunter. It is just right for 15 to 20 knot winds... you maintain control without having to work too hard, and the boat moves right along. I'd recommend it. Fair winds... Tom
Hi all, On my 1999 H260, I had an additional reef point added mid way between the foot and the reef point provided by Hunter. It is just right for 15 to 20 knot winds... you maintain control without having to work too hard, and the boat moves right along. I'd recommend it. Fair winds... Tom
To Paul H
Paul, Sounds to me like if you had the main reefed and were unable to tack unless you had a good speed up, I bet you had the jib full out -- which would tend to keep the bow off the wind. If you had the sails balanced, the boat would be balanced and would tack just as easily as if you had no reef in either sail. Jim Schaf s/v Savannah
Paul, Sounds to me like if you had the main reefed and were unable to tack unless you had a good speed up, I bet you had the jib full out -- which would tend to keep the bow off the wind. If you had the sails balanced, the boat would be balanced and would tack just as easily as if you had no reef in either sail. Jim Schaf s/v Savannah
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