Yes, the jib halyard just runs down the mast and out the exit block on the port side. So you'll need to re-install one. You will probably need to use a plumbers snake to install the halyard down the mast. Here's a trick that might work. Tie a string, like a kite string, to a piece if rag. Stuff it into the hole above the exit block hole on the top front portion of the mast. Hook up your shop-vac at the bottom and seal around it with some rags. Turn the shop-vac on and hopefully it will suck the rag with the string attached down the mast. Now you have a pull-string to install the jib halyard.
Use the gin-pole, it makes the job so much easier and safer. Takes less than a minute to install and should something snag when the mast is going up, you can cleat it off and fix the problem. The jib halyard attaches to the end of the gin-pole, and you take up the tension so the gin-pole is slightly less than 90 degrees to the mast,(think about it, if you install the gin-pole at 90 degrees or more to the mast, when the mast is up, there won't be any room for the block and tackle to finish pulling it tight to make it easy to install the pin on the bottom of the forestay). Cleat off the jib halyard on the mast cleat. Here is a short video of me lowering the mast on our Capri-18 before I got smart and got rid of the furler assembly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=90K0AYD01OI
Don't need to be a he-man, we've learned thousands of years ago the advantages of using the block and tackle, and the mechanical advantage provided by the lever to reduce our workload. Funny, in this day of electronics and computers, the same simple mechanical principals still apply today.
By the way, the steps I used to raise the mast was:
1. make sure the forestay is attached to the mast,(the "T" fitting into the slot in the mast.
2. raise the mast crutch all the way up on the transom,(this way your only raising a little portion of the mast).
3. roll the mast back and pin the bottom in the mast step. My Capri-18 and C-22 use a 1/4" X 4" bolt and wing-nut.
4. install the jib halyard to the end of the gin-pole and install the gin-pole to the mast.
5. adjust the gin-pole so it's slightly less than 90 degrees off the mast.
6. install the baby-stays,(prevents the mast from moving sideways while raising or lowering).
7. pull the gin-pole block and tackle out and attach the fiddle block to the bow stem fitting, (best if this fiddle block also has a cam-cleat attached).
8. double check to make sure everything is attached, and especially make sure the lines on the gin-pole blocks are free and not twisted. They should NOT touch each other when the lines are pulled tight.
9. pull on the line from the fiddle block attached to the bow fitting and raise the mast up. Once the mast is up, secure the line and attach the forestay to the bow fitting.
Now the mast is safely and easily up, remove the gin-pole assembly,(hint: pull the line so the blocks don't get tangled up and twisted). Tighten the back stay, and finish rigging the boat.
Nothing to it! Like I said before, my wife and I developed a system. We did it the same way everytime once we developed our way of doing it. The first time probably took a couple hours. I installed snap-shackles on my gin-pole blocks, and developed little things that reduced the time it took to rig and install stuff. She would hand me the stuff, or take it back, and once we drove up to the ramp, we would have the boat rigged and be backing her into the water in 30 minutes.
Too bad the previous owner didn't take the time to go over the rigging process with you. Any boat I sell, I go over the rigging and de-rigging process with the new owner. I show them how it's done, then I look on while they do it, so I can offer any advice or answer questions. When I sold my Capri-18, I spent the day going over rigging and de-rigging the boat, including launching the boat and getting her back on the trailer. Pick a ramp with finger docks so you can float the boat off and on the trailer easily.
Don