Rigging - When do you decide to refit your rigging?

[jssailem]

Over the past year, many questions about Masts and Rigging have been asked. By rigging, I mean both standing and running rigging.

Running rigging is less expensive, and the issues (chafe, lines breaking) are easier to identify than standing rigging. My focus here is your standing rigging. The hardware that supports the mast and you rely on to power your boat.

Talk to fellow sailors you hear offered many theories.

• If you are near the equator, you have to refit your rig every 7-10 years.
• In northern climates, boats go 20-plus years before you need to rerig.
• I am just coastal sailing. I don't worry about the rig
• It is a new boat, so the rigging is all good from the factory.
• I just bought this boat, and the surveyor said everything was good.
• I wait till the insurance company tells me

There is no set scheduled time for a refit/rerig of your mast.

You need to inspect the hardware, the wires, the condition of the rig and then decide. It is up to you, the owner, to ensure the boat is sound and ready for your sailing conditions. Even when you decide "I will replace my rigging", there are no rules, certifications, or guarantees that the work you do or hire will be completed correctly.

I was watching this video by a Norwegian sailor, in which he shared many of the challenges we, as owners, face in the unregulated world of sailboat rigging.

In the video, Thomas reveals a great secret. To do a safe refit, you replace the standing rigging from "Pin to Pin."

My boat was 40 years old when I purchased her. The rigging looked fair. When I sailed her in the bay, I heard some creaking and noticed some slack in the shrouds. This triggered my concern for my standing rigging. I decided it was time to explore a refit. I sought out an individual who had a good reputation. He performed an inspection. During my mast refit, I discussed the size of my standing rigging with the rigger. He said, in his opinion, my boat builder had undersized the wires on the rig. When I heard this, I accepted his thoughts, but at the same time, I searched for information that would support or conflict with his statements. I found that there was a body of reports by owners (some with engineering backgrounds) that supported the rigger's statements. While only 120 boats of my design were built, the company had many other boats of similar design, and the data there was applicable to my boat. Additional support was discovered when more recent designs were built with larger diameter shrouds. I spent the extra money on larger and stronger shrouds. My refit was from "pin to pin."

I know if I am going from bay sailing to open-water ocean sailing I need to inspect the rig and hardware to assure there are no questionable parts of my rig before I untie the lines. What do I look for?

I look for the exceptions.

• If all the metal is shiny, I look for discolored, rust-stained, corrosion-colored, or cracked pieces of hardware.
• If everything is taut, I search for the slack and then inspect why
• If a fitting is bent, I question why.

When I am unsure, I question folks here. With their answer, I go back to my boat and explore their solution, till I know, the suggestion resolves the issue. Sure they are smarter than me, but they are not here. I have to be as smart because I am what is standing between a safe return and getting lost at sea.

Where do you and your boat stand concerning refitting?
What do you look at before you decide it is time?

 

[FastOlson]

Salt water exposure: ten years max. Fresh water exposure : twenty years.
I have know several professional riggers and they would advise that those numbers are the max.

In the case of a new boat, specifically where you know nothing of the expertise of the rigger hired by the builder, it's probably fine since builders really really dislike having new customers killed by falling masts.
I imagine that as a reality check, you could ask your insurer (or agent) at what point in time/years they might refuse to pay if the standing rig fails.
This all goes for lifelines also.

PS: Excellent video

 

[dLj]

Rigging is very complicated - how to inspect? when to replace? what to look for? what to replace? within each of these questions is an entire subject in itself. All of those questions require in-depth knowledge not only of the subject of rigging but of the boat itself, where it is sailed and how it is sailed.

A high end race boat is not the same as a cruising boat, is not the same as a day sailor, is not the same as a coastal cruiser, etc. Is the boat in the tropics? Mid-latitudes? High latitudes? Fresh water? Salt water?

You won't inspect a fresh water boat the same as a salt water boat. What inspection techniques should one use? Are you only inspecting by eye? What about using dye penetrant? What are the advantages and disadvantages to each of those methods? Most boat owners don't know how to inspect rigging. Many rigging shops don't know how to inspect rigging. Many just give it an eyeball and make an educated guess - therein lies a huge problem of who's eyeball and is it really good enough? One difficulty is with swaged fittings you can't inspect inside the fitting - even with NDE techniques. It is expensive to inspect at anything more than a superficial level. It's likely less expensive to simply replace the rigging.

Replacement schedules are typically based on an arbitrary time schedule imposed by insurance companies. They are typically conservative. Of course, as insurance companies are not interested in having claims. What does the boat owner need? It depends on the boat, where and how they are sailing, and their adversion to risk....

As the video pointed out, there are no standards for inspecting rigging. There are standards for building rigging - think Lloyd's rigging schedules - there may be more now. I haven't looked at those standards in decades... But do you even know what standard your boats rigging was built to? If not, I'm not in agreement of simply using OEM parts as suggested in the video. But here the complications really get larger...

I'm not 100% in agreement that you only change rigging "pin to pin" as stated in the video. What about the chain plates? Mast connections? I feel those also need to be inspected. That should be part of re-rigging. That was not mentioned. For sure, after a full inspection of rigging, mast connections and chain plates, if all is well on the mast connections and chain plates then a pin to pin rigging change is a no brainer....

dj

 

[Calif. Ted]

When my rigger sold his boat he told me he was going to retire and travel around the country in a camper van he built, he was the last of half a dozen GOOD riggers I knew. The boat was 22 years old and seemed prudent to get it done while I had a rigger I knew and was very well regarded. His company is still in operation as a yacht service doing instruments, electrical, etc. etc. but nothing aloft. I don't know of anyone doing rigging in our area now, and I'm back to doing my own mechanical because the only good mechanic I knew retired.
That's one area new owners don't understand, it's easy to pay to get stuff done but it's very difficult and getting harder to get stuff done well at any price.

 

[jssailem]

one area new owners don't understand,

I agree. Rigging and mechanical are in the same condition. In some cases, they do not know the questions to ask, and in others, they do not have the background to verify.

 

[BAD ORCA]

So far, my experience in U.S. boat yards has been that the guys actually doing the work are underpaid, un-motivated, in-experienced and could care less about you or your boat. The guys in charge are often salaried working for a large corporation to a profit motive and have about the same amount of care for you or your boat unless its 100 ft or more, and do not check the work being done. I cant speak for foreign boat yards but im guessing its the same or worse. Clearly there are exceptions, but they dont seem to be the rule.

I recently had a job being done by the yard as i did other projects that was so botched it was nearly criminal. I had to go and redo most of the repairs myself to get the yard to do it right. Im not even talking about rigging, but the video i think brings the problem to light. I would almost go so far as to say, if you are a modern small boat owner, you really almost have to have a certain level of knowledge and to be a certain level of hands on if for anything else, to understand what has been done to your boat and was it done correctly.

Maybe this is the way it has always been? I'm not old enough to know.

 

[Alan Gomes]

I cant speak for foreign boat yards but im guessing its the same or worse.

Not at Baja Naval in Ensenada--at least based on my experience with them back in 2007. Blows away any of the yards up here.

 

[dLj]

So far, my experience in U.S. boat yards has been that the guys actually doing the work are underpaid, un-motivated, in-experienced and could care less about you or your boat. The guys in charge are often salaried working for a large corporation to a profit motive and have about the same amount of care for you or your boat unless its 100 ft or more, and do not check the work being done. I cant speak for foreign boat yards but im guessing its the same or worse. Clearly there are exceptions, but they dont seem to be the rule.

I recently had a job being done by the yard as i did other projects that was so botched it was nearly criminal. I had to go and redo most of the repairs myself to get the yard to do it right. Im not even talking about rigging, but the video i think brings the problem to light. I would almost go so far as to say, if you are a modern small boat owner, you really almost have to have a certain level of knowledge and to be a certain level of hands on if for anything else, to understand what has been done to your boat and was it done correctly.

Maybe this is the way it has always been? I'm not old enough to know.

Well, as a counter point to this, my experience has been that the majority of boat yards do good work, there are some that fit the above description but those are in the minority. Most tradespeople are trying to build and/or maintain a high reputation. I only have direct experience in East Coast of North America and numerous countries in Europe so I can only talk to those areas.

As far as have things gotten worse - there have always been good and bad work done.

One thing that has changed is the notable increase in the desire of boat owners to add in significantly greater complexity. With leas complexity it was easier for boat owners to have a greater overall understanding of systems, and easier to get positive results. Greater complexity adds in many levels of problems and needed expertise with its greater economic costs. This also makes it increasingly difficult for a given marina to have in- house all the needed expertise. This may lend a part in the above perception.

dj

 

[dmax]

My experience with boat yards in New England has been very positive, with no complaints about the quality of work.

 

[jssailem]

My memories of Ensenada are the morning curl as set after set rolled in. Fresh-made tamales from the woman on the sandy road to the beach. Cheap Tecate bought in the market on the way south from the border. A dream day for a SoCal teenager

 

[BAD ORCA]

Sorry jssailem, didnt mean to send your thread off topic.

My rigging is of an unknown age My best guess is 20+ years and looks to still be in fair condition. I feel comfortable day sailing with it for now in easy'ish conditions, but would not trust it offshore in heavy weather. Barring any obvious damage, as a hopeful long range offshore sailor, i would probably replace my rigging every ten years or so regardless, but inspect it closely with dye penetrant once a year, give-or-take or if i suspected something was not right. I would likely replace it 'pin to pin' if i was in safe port. If i was out in the wilds, i'd probably just replace the cabling until i was in a better harbor myself. I'd prefer to replace it myself and plan to do this on my current boat soon. I would maybe consider hiring an experienced/vetted rigger to come and inspect my first attempt when i was finished to make sure all was done correctly and there were no obvious flaws.

 

[jssailem]

i'd probably just replace the cabling

By cabling, I interpret that as shrouds. When I did mine, I chose a combination approach to the terminal fittings. Most of the damaged swaged fittings I have observed happen at the bottom end of a shroud. Water intrudes into the swaged end, corroding the wire and loosening the fitting. This directed my decision to use a mechanical terminal. I chose the Hi-Mod design of the three compression terminal options in use for 1x19 stainless wire rope: Noresman, Sta-Loc, and Hayn’s Hi-MOD.

I considered the best way to address the damaged lower end of a stay in the wilderness would be to cut off the damage and reconnect it. The mechanical fittings can be removed and reinstalled on a fresh end of a stay. The shortened stay can be addressed by fitting cables or Dyneema lashings to get me to a port with tools for a proper repair.

Prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

[dLj]

My rigging is of an unknown age My best guess is 20+ years and looks to still be in fair condition.

What does "fair condition" mean more specifically?

Barring any obvious damage, as a hopeful long range offshore sailor, i would probably replace my rigging every ten years or so regardless, but inspect it closely with dye penetrant once a year, give-or-take or if i suspected something was not right.

How would you inspect with dye penetrant? Are you NDE certified? Do you have the knowledge to perform this testing?

You can't dye penetrant inspect the interior of swaged fittings.

You could conceivably use X-ray but it would be both costly and you'd really have to know how to either do it or specify it for a X-ray technician. But by the time you are done, it's probably less expensive to simply change out the rigging - unless you own your X-ray equipment.

I would likely replace it 'pin to pin' if i was in safe port. If i was out in the wilds, i'd probably just replace the cabling until i was in a better harbor myself. I'd prefer to replace it myself and plan to do this on my current boat soon. I would maybe consider hiring an experienced/vetted rigger to come and inspect my first attempt when i was finished to make sure all was done correctly and there were no obvious flaws.

It would depend on what broke, a cable or a fitting.... It's about as frequent to have a fitting break as a cable. In fact, I've never broken a cable, but I have broken fittings...

dj

 

[FastOlson]

By cabling, I interpret that as shrouds. When I did mine, I chose a combination approach to the terminal fittings. Most of the damaged swaged fittings I have observed happen at the bottom end of a shroud. Water intrudes into the swaged end, corroding the wire and loosening the fitting. This directed my decision to use a mechanical terminal. I chose the Hi-Mod design of the three compression terminal options in use for 1x19 stainless wire rope: Noresman, Sta-Loc, and Hayn’s Hi-MOD.

I considered the best way to address the damaged lower end of a stay in the wilderness would be to cut off the damage and reconnect it. The mechanical fittings can be removed and reinstalled on a fresh end of a stay. The shortened stay can be addressed by fitting cables or Dyneema lashings to get me to a port with tools for a proper repair.

Prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I agree. Several decades ago I was crewing on a delivery up the WA coast an we lost the rig on a sunny 12 kt day. Driving easily to weather, and with no warning at all I heard a loud 'bang" and the spar was laying in the water, bent severely at the spreader.
Before we all cut it loose we found one of the swages for a lower on the weather side clearly showed where it broke, down inside the swage about a quarter inch. No way to see this before it parted. It turned out to be a classic failure point, written about in all rigging books. The whole rig was not all that "old" either... about 10 or 12 years, IIRC.
As soon as one of the lowers snapped, the other lower tore the ss toggle in half, about a millisecond later. Whole event happened quick. Really quick. Everyone else was napping, and I was on the tiller, on a well equipped Ranger 29 (Ranger Yachts, Mull design). One moment I was looking at the curve of the working jib forward, next moment my view forward was... unimpeded...
Very few recreational sailors have this first hand experience to guide them, and all things considered I would also rather not, either. (We motored back to Astoria and our summer trip to the San Juans was erased from our schedule. )

But, zero injuries, and a memorable learning experience , for sure.
Note that IF there had been any of the crew up on deck at the time they might have been injured or killed. Takeaway is that the standing rig should not be allowed to get too old, whether you can "see" any problems or not.

 

[BAD ORCA]

By cabling, I interpret that as shrouds. When I did mine, I chose a combination approach to the terminal fittings. Most of the damaged swaged fittings I have observed happen at the bottom end of a shroud. Water intrudes into the swaged end, corroding the wire and loosening the fitting. This directed my decision to use a mechanical terminal. I chose the Hi-Mod design of the three compression terminal options in use for 1x19 stainless wire rope: Noresman, Sta-Loc, and Hayn’s Hi-MOD.

I considered the best way to address the damaged lower end of a stay in the wilderness would be to cut off the damage and reconnect it. The mechanical fittings can be removed and reinstalled on a fresh end of a stay. The shortened stay can be addressed by fitting cables or Dyneema lashings to get me to a port with tools for a proper repair.

Prevention is worth a pound of cure.

I did and should have been more specific. yes shroud and end fittings like the three you mentioned. I have not used Sta-Locs before but plan to use them when i replace my rigging. They seem like they would make it easier to do oneself if not near a port or marina -vs- swagged fittings done by a rigger. .

 

[colemj]

You may be overestimating what you can get done in the "wild". Anywhere you find appropriate rigging wire to purchase, you will also find a swage machine and rigger and parts. It is cumbersome and not practical to carry new rigging wire around while cruising. However, your plan to use mechanical fittings is a good one for the reason that you can get the work done yourself and on your own schedule.

Forget about yearly dye penetration inspections. Just regularly looking at the rigging components is enough.

More and more, insurance requirements control the decision on when to rerig.

Mark