Parts caution.
You can re-rig yourself but beware of what you use. The wire rope used can make a great difference, or even cost you your mast. The rigging wire comes in many different "lays" with different number of strands. The most frequently recommended wire is 1x19 for boats in the Mac size range. The wire rope should be stainless steel. Galvanized iron wire will rust and the tin in the galvanizing will discolor sails, clothes etc that come in constant contact. Iron wire can also be weaker than stainless. Avoid cast iron or steel turnbuckles as they are not made to the same standards as marine hardware and can break under moderate load, not to mention rusting and seizing up. Poor quality cast turnbuckles may have what is caled "cold shuts" or hidden defects in the part from the casting process. Cold shuts are much more common than you might think and weaken the cast part greatly. Stainless steel or a good quality machined brass turnbuckle is preferred. Cable should always be terminated (unless using a swageless fitting such as Norseman) with a thimble and multiple nicropress fittings. NEVER use cable clamps on load bearing rigging, they can slip, or if tightened too tight, damage the wire. They also have a tendancy to catch on clothes, lines and those very expensive sails. And use copper nicropress fittings, not the aluminum ones. There are also different grades of stainless, 302 is a good basic stainless and 316 should be used under harsh or tropical conditions. There are other grades available, check with the manufacturer for recommended wire rope and stainless grades for your application. Remember that if your standing rigging gives way, you may not only have to replace your mast,rigging, and/or boom, but will probably have extensive and expensive repairs to the cabin roof where the the mast has torn the step away. The original Mac stay adjusters are easy to use if you have a pair of spuds. The are light, strong and corrosion resistant. You can also adjust them by pulling on the inner or outer shrouds and the other one will go slack so you can set its adjustment. Once set the shroud adjusters should not need further adjusting. The only turnbuckle on my standing rigging is one for the forestay that has a built in pelican hook. I adjust my rigging at the start of the season and check it often. It seldom if ever needs adjustment. When sailing, EVERYTHING is safety related. You can drown 5' from shore as easily as 500 miles out to sea. Please do it right the first time. Happy sailing, Mike
