Hi, I have recently bought a Cutter rigged 1983 PS37 and have some rigging questions: Running Backstays: Where's the appropriate location for them to be attached to the deck? Currently they're on the forward end of the track that runs roughly midships. (I have the a block for the jib on this track too) There's a padeye at the aft end of this track - I wondering if that's where they should be instead. When broad reaching, the backstay tends to get in the way rather - and if I move it further aft, it'll be more in the way - giving rise to potential chafe of the main. Never having used running backstays before, I could use some serious advice! Tacking: As I get more experience with the boat, tacking becomes easier - but boy, it sure is tougher than tacking a sloop! Lines get caught on anything and everything - liferafts, whisker poles, (obviously the staysail....), etc. Any advice on easy tacking with a cutter? I seem to have a problem with the main's topping lift - it's always taught - even when the main is up and we're reaching. I always thought the main should hold the boom up and allow the topping lift to flay around (and be annoying!) What am I doing wrong? Jacklines: Where do people run these - from bow cleat to stern cleat? or to the padeye about level with the front of the coamings? I currently have a 100% jib - but it's rather tired. How much more difficult is it to tack with a 135% genoa? Thinking of gaining a little momentum in the lighter airs... Is anyone using asymetrical spinakers on this boat? Lots of questions I know - but any and all help surely appreciated! Liferaft: We have a liferaft in a canister sitting ahead of the mast. What a pain it is for my wife to see around. Has anyone mounted one on the stern pulpit? Got any photos of such an installation?
Rigging Questions
- Thread starter Bill Balme
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Tracing line for tacking .....
Run a light line from the cockpit to the bow to a swivel block then back to the clew of the sail. When you want to tack pull the tracing line which will 'bunch' the sail forward and enough to easily pass between the forestay and the jibstay. If this works for you, have a sailmaker attach a 'cringle' on the foot at about 75 back from the luff to attach the 'tracing' line. If you ever have the opportunity to watch videos of the 1987 Americas Cup races, all boats used tracing lines to get the large genoas across the 'baby stay' .... almost as far forward as the forestay on a PS. Flying the staysail will help keep the genoa from fouling on the forestay. Tack the staysail first (best is a self tacking staysail on a boom) then briefly backwind the genoa before letting go - this will 'push' it between the forestay and jibstay. Without the staysail flying you WILL foul on the forestay. Topping lift .... should be tensioned for correct boom height so that the sail will be shaped correctly and the leech become stable. Life Raft - shouldnt be mounted on a stern rail. A large boarding wave can possibly rip it loose. If the mounting on the coach roof is a problem consider mounting it on towards the side of the coachroof; or, secondarily (much poorer) mount it on the foredeck right infront of the cabin/dog house but you will need an auxiliarry cover to keep the water out.
Run a light line from the cockpit to the bow to a swivel block then back to the clew of the sail. When you want to tack pull the tracing line which will 'bunch' the sail forward and enough to easily pass between the forestay and the jibstay. If this works for you, have a sailmaker attach a 'cringle' on the foot at about 75 back from the luff to attach the 'tracing' line. If you ever have the opportunity to watch videos of the 1987 Americas Cup races, all boats used tracing lines to get the large genoas across the 'baby stay' .... almost as far forward as the forestay on a PS. Flying the staysail will help keep the genoa from fouling on the forestay. Tack the staysail first (best is a self tacking staysail on a boom) then briefly backwind the genoa before letting go - this will 'push' it between the forestay and jibstay. Without the staysail flying you WILL foul on the forestay. Topping lift .... should be tensioned for correct boom height so that the sail will be shaped correctly and the leech become stable. Life Raft - shouldnt be mounted on a stern rail. A large boarding wave can possibly rip it loose. If the mounting on the coach roof is a problem consider mounting it on towards the side of the coachroof; or, secondarily (much poorer) mount it on the foredeck right infront of the cabin/dog house but you will need an auxiliarry cover to keep the water out.
Main Sheet Winch
Gaining much experience with the new boat - learning it's intricacies. Tacking ideas helped a lot - thanks. The boat has Lewmar 16 winches for mainsheet and staysail sheets under the dodger. I think I'm finding the mainsheet winch to be rather small. Does anyone else feel the same? I am thinking of moving the mainsheet winch to the rear of the coaming - as an additional winch for furling lines, etc. and upgrading the mainsheet winch - to perhaps a 30. Any thoughts? Bill Balme
Gaining much experience with the new boat - learning it's intricacies. Tacking ideas helped a lot - thanks. The boat has Lewmar 16 winches for mainsheet and staysail sheets under the dodger. I think I'm finding the mainsheet winch to be rather small. Does anyone else feel the same? I am thinking of moving the mainsheet winch to the rear of the coaming - as an additional winch for furling lines, etc. and upgrading the mainsheet winch - to perhaps a 30. Any thoughts? Bill Balme
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