Rigging on rudder 1994 Hunter 23.5

[SurfTom]

Just bought my 1994 23.5 and really like it. I traded up from a 76 Hunter 25. The water ballast takes some getting used to,,,,major pucker factor on the first 2 or 3 trips.Anyway,,,,I've never had a swing keel and rudder before. The keel is pretty straight forward,,,loosen the rope it drops. But the rudder came with two shabby frayed ropes. When I put new rope on the rudder blade should it be on continuous piece running from knot to knot,, or two separate lengths? How long, what stretch and what diameter rope should I use. No handbook came with the boat. The local Hunter dealer sniffs when I ask him a question "We only REALLY deal with larger Hunters you know". with his fake english accent. Putz!And when I'm under way am I to pull the blade down and clete it to the tiller arm? If I let it fall it trails in the mid way position when under way which I think contributes to the heavy rudder feel. I mean HEAVY rudder. Its a two hander,,,unlike my old boat. I'm thinking that if I run aground and its cleted it will damage the tramsom or rip the attachment points apart. Lots of shallow water in my part of the bay.

 

[Craig Nelson]

Rudder Rigging

We just got our 1993 h23.5 this spring and have never owned a sailboat before, so I know how nice it is to have this forum to get these kind of questions answered. I have been studying our rudder and the manual and have come to a few conclusions. Your comment about the heavy tiller is correct. I have noticed that if the rudder is not all the way down, the difference is quite noticeable. When I pull the line to put the rudder down, I have not been cleating it off, just in case. There is a large wing nut on the bolt that the rudder pivots on that tightens the rudder in place and I use just the amount of pressure on this wingnut to keep the rudder from swinging on it's own. I am not sure if the wingnut was from Hunter or if the previous owner did it, but it works. The rope is one continuous piece on mine and is run under the cleat on the tiller so that it is always near the cleat. Also, the line is supposed to be routed around a sheave that is just forward and above the rudder blade. Mine was missing the sheave and I am in the process of trying to replace it. If anyone knows what size the sheave should be, it would be helpful to know. Also, I think that I have seen a sketch of how to add a 2:1 purchase to the downhaul line which would make pulling the rudder into the down position easier. Look in the photo forum...I think that is where I saw the shetch. If not I could e-mail the copy that I have to you.

 

[Rick Webb]

2 to 1 Rudder purchase

It is, I put it there look underGeneral Interestand then2 to 1 Rudder purchase Good Luck with it, I did mine and it works pretty well.

 

[Steve Gautney]

Use the friction nut . . .

Tighten the winged friction nut to hold the rudder in the down position. If you run aground the force will push the rudder back up. I'm told that cleating the rope will lead to damage. Try Rick's rigging method . . . .

 

[Mike Pajewski]

Don't cleat it off.

Tom,I am a former 23.5 owner and now own a 26. The rudder rigging is the same for both. There was never a sheave for the rudder line. It starts at the back of the rudder, dead ended with a figure 8 knot. The line goes through the back hole in the rudder, across the top between the cheeks (the black plates) and across the top of the wingnut shaft, which should have a teflon sleeve. It the comes out under the tiller handle, through the cleat and back down to the hole in the front of the rudder. The line allows you to lift the rudder out of the water with the upper end, and pull it down with the lower. The only time you should tie it off is when the rudder is lifted all the way up for trailering. If you go aground with the rudder cleated, you could damage the rudder or pintles and gudgeons. The rudder is the lowest point of the boat with the centerboard up. The factory wing nut holds it in place for sailing. Positioning the rudder is important. You can pull it too far down so that it angles forward. This will result in a lee helm that makes the boat hard to sail. If it is too far aft, you will end up with lots of weather helm. The rudder is adjusted properly when the back edge of the rudder is parallel with the back edge of the black plates. These are the words of the designer, Rob Mazza. He once wrote an article in the Knotline on how to set the rudderMike PajewskiH23.5 Summer RentalH26 Loon