I'd appreciate any advice or experience regarding rigging a preventer. Is the bow cleat a good point to attach a block? How do you run the line back to the cockpit, and how do you secure it there? Thanks.
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I just clip a line
from an eyelet mid boom to the toe rail midship. I'm sure there are fancier setups.
from an eyelet mid boom to the toe rail midship. I'm sure there are fancier setups.
boom vang
I release my boom vang snap shackle at the mast base and shackle it to the toe rail or a chain plate. I guess it won't work if you have a rigid vang.
I release my boom vang snap shackle at the mast base and shackle it to the toe rail or a chain plate. I guess it won't work if you have a rigid vang.
What toe rail????
All of the 430's I have seen appear to have the same moulded-in NON-toerail that I have on my 380. I have rigged a line with a carabiner attached to the boom and the other end cleated at the midships cleat, but I don't like that solution. I would like to hear about a solution that works with the smooth molded toerail.
All of the 430's I have seen appear to have the same moulded-in NON-toerail that I have on my 380. I have rigged a line with a carabiner attached to the boom and the other end cleated at the midships cleat, but I don't like that solution. I would like to hear about a solution that works with the smooth molded toerail.
Stephen --
What do you do if you want to tension down the boom if your outhaul is doubling as a preventer?
What do you do if you want to tension down the boom if your outhaul is doubling as a preventer?
Mid-ship cleat on the H340
I've rigged a block and tackle preventor that I tie to the mid-ship cleat on my H340 thus leaving the vang in place. Don't know how it would work on the 430. Works for me. Jim
I've rigged a block and tackle preventor that I tie to the mid-ship cleat on my H340 thus leaving the vang in place. Don't know how it would work on the 430. Works for me. Jim
preventer
I have a 3-1 purchase block and tackle which is rigged from the boom eye to the mid-ship cleat. The block at the mid ship cleat has a becket and cam which allows me to run the line back to the cockpit for control. Bryce Grefe S/V Spellbinder H410
I have a 3-1 purchase block and tackle which is rigged from the boom eye to the mid-ship cleat. The block at the mid ship cleat has a becket and cam which allows me to run the line back to the cockpit for control. Bryce Grefe S/V Spellbinder H410
Bryan
I can still tension down the vang if I want. The best set-up would be if I got a rigid vang, then I could use the old vang as a preventer.
I can still tension down the vang if I want. The best set-up would be if I got a rigid vang, then I could use the old vang as a preventer.
U-bolt
I installed a watertight U-bolt (5/16" stock diameter, rated at 6600 swl) in the flat spot on the toerail just forward of the midship cleat. (Did this on a 410, but I believe the 430 is arranged the same.) Had to have inspection ports cut into the headliner in order to back the installation with fender washers. In addition to being a good spot to attach a snatch block for a preventer, it is in perfect position to serve as an outboard fairlead for reaching. I lead the outboard lead/preventer back to the spinnaker winches on the cockpit coaming. (I might add that I NEVER use the preventer to prevent crash gybes, but rather use it to keep the boom from swinging when I'm sailing in big swells in light air. A gybe preventer should never be used to compensate for a helmsman who doesn't understand how to avoid accidental gybes. The best solution for that is sailing lessons.)
I installed a watertight U-bolt (5/16" stock diameter, rated at 6600 swl) in the flat spot on the toerail just forward of the midship cleat. (Did this on a 410, but I believe the 430 is arranged the same.) Had to have inspection ports cut into the headliner in order to back the installation with fender washers. In addition to being a good spot to attach a snatch block for a preventer, it is in perfect position to serve as an outboard fairlead for reaching. I lead the outboard lead/preventer back to the spinnaker winches on the cockpit coaming. (I might add that I NEVER use the preventer to prevent crash gybes, but rather use it to keep the boom from swinging when I'm sailing in big swells in light air. A gybe preventer should never be used to compensate for a helmsman who doesn't understand how to avoid accidental gybes. The best solution for that is sailing lessons.)
Question for John
John, What type of hardware did you use to lead the preventer line to the winches? Did you install furling leads along the stancheons or just run the line loose to the winches? (if loose, is it a tripping obstacle?) Thanks.
John, What type of hardware did you use to lead the preventer line to the winches? Did you install furling leads along the stancheons or just run the line loose to the winches? (if loose, is it a tripping obstacle?) Thanks.
George's question
I rig both the outboard lead and preventer the same way: a snatchblock at the U-bolt, with the line running directly to the spinnaker winch on the coaming. And yes, I suppose it could cause someone to trip, but only those someones who haven't trained themselves to go forward on the windward deck.
I rig both the outboard lead and preventer the same way: a snatchblock at the U-bolt, with the line running directly to the spinnaker winch on the coaming. And yes, I suppose it could cause someone to trip, but only those someones who haven't trained themselves to go forward on the windward deck.
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