Has anyone ever retro-fitting a bilge pump on a Hunter 23? I have a 1987 model and you pump the bilge by lifting the floor boards to expose 3 depressions where the water flows in from the bilge. This is the most bizarre bilge design I've ever seen. I was thinking of drilling a hole into the bilge from under the seats. Then I'd mount a self priming pump with a hose that extends thru the hole and down into the bilge. I'd then extend an outflow hose into the thru-hull fitting for the galley sink. Have anyone ever attempted something like this. These boats leak so much and I'm tired of water sloshing around when the boat's heeled over. I welcome anyone's advice.
Retro-fitting a bilge pump on '23
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Fix the leaks!
Chances are the majority of your leaks are coming from your hull to deck joint under your rub rail. Other places are: the cockpit seat access into the lazarette (rain channel lip under seat is too short and suceptible to boat angle while on the trailer), tie off bars on the bow and each side of the stern, chainplate in the bow locker, drain hose from bow locker, and mast step (this one should be obvious from water damage to interior wall or deck support post. I have a Hunter 23 that doesn't leak...fixes documented at http://www.teamseacats.com/hunter/ Life is so much easier if the boat simply doesn't leak.
Chances are the majority of your leaks are coming from your hull to deck joint under your rub rail. Other places are: the cockpit seat access into the lazarette (rain channel lip under seat is too short and suceptible to boat angle while on the trailer), tie off bars on the bow and each side of the stern, chainplate in the bow locker, drain hose from bow locker, and mast step (this one should be obvious from water damage to interior wall or deck support post. I have a Hunter 23 that doesn't leak...fixes documented at http://www.teamseacats.com/hunter/ Life is so much easier if the boat simply doesn't leak.
Jake is correct
Jake is right, unless you have very loose keel bolts, chances are the the water is rain water. Another place to check is the back side of the plexiglass sea hood. There is a piece of teak screwed on as a stop so you can't pull the sea hood off the boat. Remove the screws and clean the plexiglas and the teak, then reinstall with a fresh bead of silicone. This made my H23 dry for the first time since I've owned it.
Jake is right, unless you have very loose keel bolts, chances are the the water is rain water. Another place to check is the back side of the plexiglass sea hood. There is a piece of teak screwed on as a stop so you can't pull the sea hood off the boat. Remove the screws and clean the plexiglas and the teak, then reinstall with a fresh bead of silicone. This made my H23 dry for the first time since I've owned it.
eyes wide open
Jake What a tale from the lake depths ! Our h23 85 was in about the same condition. The wood is completed and looks great. Sandblasting was the choice for the keel and hull. Next is the primer and then anti fouling paint. Water and more water leaks,excatly where you discovered the culprit. Very helpful with your tale. If you took notes on the running rigging ,that info would be great. In retrospect, was it worth it ? And how are both of you enjoying the boat? Bill
Jake What a tale from the lake depths ! Our h23 85 was in about the same condition. The wood is completed and looks great. Sandblasting was the choice for the keel and hull. Next is the primer and then anti fouling paint. Water and more water leaks,excatly where you discovered the culprit. Very helpful with your tale. If you took notes on the running rigging ,that info would be great. In retrospect, was it worth it ? And how are both of you enjoying the boat? Bill
FIx leaks 2
They are correct. Most water comes in from the top side. The rub rail is probally the greatest source. When you remove it you will see why. There are over one hundred screws and a gap in the hull deck seam. They all need to be caulked. It is not fun, but well worth it. The teak on the plexiglass is another big source. If you run a hose over the deck check and see where the water runs. Good luck.
They are correct. Most water comes in from the top side. The rub rail is probally the greatest source. When you remove it you will see why. There are over one hundred screws and a gap in the hull deck seam. They all need to be caulked. It is not fun, but well worth it. The teak on the plexiglass is another big source. If you run a hose over the deck check and see where the water runs. Good luck.
Leaking Plexiglass
With my top plexiglass hatch cover, I too discovered that it was leaking. However, mine had bowed/sunk in the center which caused water to pool and even overrun the teak rail stop on the forward end of the cover even though it was sealed well. I removed all the fittings from the cover, turned it over, re-countersunk the holes and reattached the hardware. The cover now drains off the sides better than ever since the bow is now convex. Also of note; I sealed my rear lazarette from the main living area - some might not agree with that move. However, although I ocasionally still have the rear seat leaking into there, I've not yet had to remove any moisture from within the main cabin. I plan to use a little marine tex with temporary saran wrap barrier to build up the lip under the seat to prevent this (this usually leaks when the boat is not level on the trailer). We are thrilled with the boat! We use it about once a month for something or another. I've raced it a couple of times and we haven't done badly but I prefer racing my sportier boats. Even then, we use the boat to sleep on and usually go for an evening cruise during regattas. The boat still looks good - I've just had my third person mistake the boat for new...and those are only the people that verbalize that perception. now...if I just had some new sails....hmmmm....
With my top plexiglass hatch cover, I too discovered that it was leaking. However, mine had bowed/sunk in the center which caused water to pool and even overrun the teak rail stop on the forward end of the cover even though it was sealed well. I removed all the fittings from the cover, turned it over, re-countersunk the holes and reattached the hardware. The cover now drains off the sides better than ever since the bow is now convex. Also of note; I sealed my rear lazarette from the main living area - some might not agree with that move. However, although I ocasionally still have the rear seat leaking into there, I've not yet had to remove any moisture from within the main cabin. I plan to use a little marine tex with temporary saran wrap barrier to build up the lip under the seat to prevent this (this usually leaks when the boat is not level on the trailer). We are thrilled with the boat! We use it about once a month for something or another. I've raced it a couple of times and we haven't done badly but I prefer racing my sportier boats. Even then, we use the boat to sleep on and usually go for an evening cruise during regattas. The boat still looks good - I've just had my third person mistake the boat for new...and those are only the people that verbalize that perception. now...if I just had some new sails....hmmmm....
Sealing rear lazerette
Jake, How did you seal up the rear compartment? I was looking at doing that this week and was going to seal up under where the galley is. I have that board pulled off. I couldn't see any reason not to seal it off. Where did you seal up? I think the least amount of water/moisture in the cabin the better. When we stay over or go for a cruise we even keep a rubber maid tote under the step and all wet gear and shoes go in there and the lid is put on. It sure seems to keep the cabin dryer and more comfortable. Thanks for any info. If you want to answer off here my e-mail is: sales@mortoncontracting.com. I'm sure others may have done this or are thinking about it. Rob Morton
Jake, How did you seal up the rear compartment? I was looking at doing that this week and was going to seal up under where the galley is. I have that board pulled off. I couldn't see any reason not to seal it off. Where did you seal up? I think the least amount of water/moisture in the cabin the better. When we stay over or go for a cruise we even keep a rubber maid tote under the step and all wet gear and shoes go in there and the lid is put on. It sure seems to keep the cabin dryer and more comfortable. Thanks for any info. If you want to answer off here my e-mail is: sales@mortoncontracting.com. I'm sure others may have done this or are thinking about it. Rob Morton
Seal up the rear
Rob, In the forward edge at the base of the rear compartment wall, you may find a small circular opening that goes under the 'floor pan' (sorry - I can't think of the proper term) This opening connects to the two areas. In my case, my 1983 (or 84) model boat did not have this hole and I believe it was actually intended to be sealed. However, the wood had been waterdamaged to the point that it would easily leak into the cabin area if the smallest amount of water accumulated in the rear compartment. I simply built up two layers of fiberglass and epoxy from the floor in the rear compartment up the wall to give support back to the wood and make watertight the bottom 12".
Rob, In the forward edge at the base of the rear compartment wall, you may find a small circular opening that goes under the 'floor pan' (sorry - I can't think of the proper term) This opening connects to the two areas. In my case, my 1983 (or 84) model boat did not have this hole and I believe it was actually intended to be sealed. However, the wood had been waterdamaged to the point that it would easily leak into the cabin area if the smallest amount of water accumulated in the rear compartment. I simply built up two layers of fiberglass and epoxy from the floor in the rear compartment up the wall to give support back to the wood and make watertight the bottom 12".
Had the same problem...
I had water sloshing out from under the liner when I healed my H23 when I first got her. I had two leaks causing the whole problem: The cockpit drain hose and the lower rudder pintle. Both are right at the water line. The rudder pintle was the worst of them. I replaced the cracked hose for the cockpit drain and repaired/tightened the rudder mount. I haven't had any water sloshing around in her since.
I had water sloshing out from under the liner when I healed my H23 when I first got her. I had two leaks causing the whole problem: The cockpit drain hose and the lower rudder pintle. Both are right at the water line. The rudder pintle was the worst of them. I replaced the cracked hose for the cockpit drain and repaired/tightened the rudder mount. I haven't had any water sloshing around in her since.
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