Would a vertically retractable transom mounted rudder be useful for shallow water maneuvering or while trailering. I am currently working on a design for my senior Mechanical Engineering Project. I would appreciate any opinions or suggestions from owners. My group has a 1989 Macgregor 26 to use for the design of a prototype, but the goal is to have a design that can be easily adapted to fit most transom mounting geometries. Please let me know what you think of the idea and if it is worth pursuing. Thanks!!
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It's been done befor many ways,
You'll find that type of setup on a lot cats. look around you'll be amazed at how many def. way the same thing can be done. Don't let that stop you,goahead and come up with a new one!
You'll find that type of setup on a lot cats. look around you'll be amazed at how many def. way the same thing can be done. Don't let that stop you,goahead and come up with a new one!
B
Bob
Got one
Some of the '70s Ericsons have such a system, but it is a little different than others I have seen. Both rudder and transom have gudgeons, and a long (about 3.5' to 4') half inch stainless rod slides down through the eyes. There is an eye strap high up on the port side of the transom, a small cheek block on the leading edge of the rudder above the waterline, and a cleat on the starboard top edge of the transom. A 1/4" to 5/16" line runs from the eye, through the cheek block, and up to the cleat. A pull on the line raises the rudder as far as you want, until the cheek block is about level with the eye. It works well, and is great for shallow water or for decreasing wetted area in light wind. Don't pull the rudder up in moderate or heavy winds, or you can bend the rod. Don't ask how I know.
Some of the '70s Ericsons have such a system, but it is a little different than others I have seen. Both rudder and transom have gudgeons, and a long (about 3.5' to 4') half inch stainless rod slides down through the eyes. There is an eye strap high up on the port side of the transom, a small cheek block on the leading edge of the rudder above the waterline, and a cleat on the starboard top edge of the transom. A 1/4" to 5/16" line runs from the eye, through the cheek block, and up to the cleat. A pull on the line raises the rudder as far as you want, until the cheek block is about level with the eye. It works well, and is great for shallow water or for decreasing wetted area in light wind. Don't pull the rudder up in moderate or heavy winds, or you can bend the rod. Don't ask how I know.
R
Ray Bowles
Can you convert solid rudder to retractable?
Many boats, mostly older, had transom mounted rudders that were easy to remove but would not retract. Some or the more popular of these such as the Catalina 22 offered this later but as an expensive option or retrofit. My tiller and traveler could be in the way of a retractable. If you could offer a design to mofify these to a hinged or pin pivot retractable that would be of great assisstance to us do-it yourselfers that are to broke to buy new stuff. Vertically retractable rudders might require more gear and weight than fold-up ones but I would like to see your idea drawn out. In my case I must now remove my rudder at the last minute as I back up to the beach for the night and rehanging it in the morning is a pain. We drop our anchor about 100' from the shore and back up to attach a shore line. It can get real busy removing the rudder so a easly built plate set-up that would hold the rudder blade up and operated with a line and some sheeves would be nice. Thanks for your ideas and thoughts aboout this concept. Ray
Many boats, mostly older, had transom mounted rudders that were easy to remove but would not retract. Some or the more popular of these such as the Catalina 22 offered this later but as an expensive option or retrofit. My tiller and traveler could be in the way of a retractable. If you could offer a design to mofify these to a hinged or pin pivot retractable that would be of great assisstance to us do-it yourselfers that are to broke to buy new stuff. Vertically retractable rudders might require more gear and weight than fold-up ones but I would like to see your idea drawn out. In my case I must now remove my rudder at the last minute as I back up to the beach for the night and rehanging it in the morning is a pain. We drop our anchor about 100' from the shore and back up to attach a shore line. It can get real busy removing the rudder so a easly built plate set-up that would hold the rudder blade up and operated with a line and some sheeves would be nice. Thanks for your ideas and thoughts aboout this concept. Ray
B
Bob
More on the pin-type
I said mine raises as much as you want - actually, that's not completely true, it only raised a foot or perhaps a little more. But since it draws 3', and the boat draws 2' with the centerboard up, raising the rudder 13" is sufficient to get it above the keel, which is all you really need. There are no hinges or pins to rotate around, just a vertical 1/2" rod down through the transom and rudder gudgeons, with a shoulder on the upper end to keep it from dropping through.
I said mine raises as much as you want - actually, that's not completely true, it only raised a foot or perhaps a little more. But since it draws 3', and the boat draws 2' with the centerboard up, raising the rudder 13" is sufficient to get it above the keel, which is all you really need. There are no hinges or pins to rotate around, just a vertical 1/2" rod down through the transom and rudder gudgeons, with a shoulder on the upper end to keep it from dropping through.
R
Ray Bowles
Lee Bar, Please post interior diagram.
Do you have a diagram of the interior workings of your rudder? I would love to talk to you about it. I'm in the diretory under Ray Bowles. Thanks, Ray
Do you have a diagram of the interior workings of your rudder? I would love to talk to you about it. I'm in the diretory under Ray Bowles. Thanks, Ray
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