Retractable Bowsprit

Jackdaw · Jan 7, 2013

Joel,

It depends on your needs. There are four reasons for using any kind of sprit:

1) to create extra projection forward that puts more sail into clear air when running deep

2) to allow the use of a larger spinnaker because your effective J size is bigger

3) to allow a tight-luff free flying sail (code 0) to clear the pulpit

4) to allow the tackline to stay clear of the pulpit when sailing and gybing.

Unless you a re a big racer I'd focus on 3 and 4, and then your best projected distance will be about 16 inches. This will allow the luff of a code 0 to clear the pulpit, and not be too far to deal with the huge loads of a code 0. For asyms it would not be needed but for zeros think about adding a bobstay. Check the distance by pulling your spin halyard tight from the tip of the pole when test fitting the pole and make sure it clears all the pulpit hardware.

This is also a good distance for an asym... and you can fly standard sized sails for your boat.

Picking the right location for the pole is a matter of some trial and error; for sure you want the pole tip to be in the centerline. Here a Sparcraft pole of our First 260.

When going deep the extra projection helps an asym rotate to windward.

Jackdaw · Jan 7, 2013

Joel H. said:
Great input Jack, thank you for that. My pulpit extends out, similar to the boat in the background of your first pic. It seems to me that would take a lot of extension to clear that but I need to get to the yard and use the halyard as you suggest.
Duly noted that the sprit should intersect the C/L.

Yes I agree that the raked bows of the catalina's make the pulpit extended farther forward then the Beneteaus. But if you extend a line from the mast top the the point where it clears the pulpit, I'd be surprised if it was more than 24 inches.

http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=814

EDIT - and you raise a good point. the only reason the pulpit extends at that angle is cosmetic. You COULD mod it to be more vertical.

But, this amount of extension is ONLY needed if you plan to use a code O. For a Catalina 27, which can use large overlapping genoas, I'd guess its not needed. The real value of a code 0 is on fractional boats with non-overlapping headsails, like the First 260.

Jackdaw · Jan 7, 2013

Oh, and I just re-read your first post. the sprit CAN be off center by an inch or so... no harm, it just favors one tack very slightly over the other.

Cat27s do NOT have a anchor locker, right? Then you have a lot more mounting options than most!

Joe · Jan 8, 2013

The Catalina bow pulpit extends almost far enough that you could rig the detachable furler on a sprit but INSIDE the pulpit rail and still clear the forestay. The height of the code zero or gennaker's tack will control the amount of interference with the pulpit......... I'm just suggesting you not limit your options when taking measurements.

My choice, in order to maintain some kine of aesthetic, would be to simply lower the height of the pulpit about 6-8 inches, similar to the height of Jackdaw's boat.. that would solve the problem and put you more in line with the desired geometry.

Jackdaw · Jan 8, 2013

Joel H. said:
On another note: One of the knowledgeable sailors on the other site suggests that a Code Zero on a Catalina 27 might be a little, well, unnecessary. I pointed out that my interest was because of its ability to be handled from the cockpit.
Anyone have any thoughts on that?

That was my point in the earlier post. Code 0s have two primary applications:

1) On fractional boats that cannot fly non-overlapping headsails, it gives a good option for close reaching in light airs. Masthead rigs like the Cat27 would typically just fly a big genoa. On our First 260 with its non-overlapping 105% jib, thats a big a headsail as we can go.

2) On fast boats in light airs, the boat under asym quickly wants to move as fast (or faster) then the wind. This pushes the apparent wind angle so far forward that an asym collapses and the only option is a zero. This happens on our First 36.7 all the time.

If you are looking for an off the wind sail that you can control from the cockpit, get regular asm with a Karver top-down furler. A friend has one on his J-109 and its awesome.

http://youtu.be/jXg8mnlyn8w

jrowan · Jan 15, 2013

I've thought about making a retractable bow sprit the used tubular steel & instead of cluttering up the deck where it is already tight, I had another mounting idea. Use a hinged base plate attached next to the steam head fitting. the other end would attach to the forward most point of the pushpit top rail. Many boats already have an angled rail aready set at the forward point of the pushpit, except on our Catalinas. This would give the sprit an out of the way mounting point, would be quick to set with a simple rod that could run through the tube through holes on either side, to secure the hinged base from movement when deployed. It would also have the added advantage of protecting the bow from impact from a high, fixed dock or pier.

When we had the recent Hurricane Sandy, my C 30 bow rail got caught on a hight tide on the edge of the dock & bent the upper rail upwards as all of the boats weight was resting on this rail. The rail is beefy & held the boat without tearing off, but I had to use a blow torch & a sledge hammer to bend it back down again! If I had that angled piece of tubular steel in place at the outer bow rail, it would have deflected the dock & prevented this damage in the first place. Food for thought. Think I'm on to something here. lol.