Our new old boat (1976 30') is getting there, most of the interior is in the cellar in various stages of rebuilding or refinishing. I have to repair (replace) some Bulkheads (3/4" teak plywood) due to rot and a long standing leak the prior owner finally found, and butchered with a sawzall. I am curious just which resin, epoxy, polyester or whatever is the best, most duarable, strongest, most compatable with the existing hull, and easiest to work with. West Marine and most other stores carry West Systems, Boaters Resin, Evercoat, Evercoat 50/50 and Mas Epoxy, plus a multitude of others. 99 percent of the repairs are not exposed to water (unless we hit a rock). There are a few (small)dings in the hull but thats for another day. I also have some gell coat on the deck to repair, its white but the prior owner put some kind of anti-slip paint on it. The problem lies in the fact that I think he put the anti-slip paint on with a hammer. So I am prediposing some slips with the sander, and some holes that will need filling. But all in all its going well, the fuel tank is here, the hot water heater (heat exchanger)is here, the new VHF, the new used GPS, the electrical panel is here, battery switch is here, wire is here, most of the removable portions of the interior have beed finished and are ready to go back in, all the brass and chrome has been polished and bagged, old engine is ready to be taken out (all disconnected), sails have been sent out to be reconditioned. Still waiting on the new motor, sea era and new holding tank, but its 8 degrees outside and we won't be planning ay cocktail parties on deck this weekend. Thanks again all, if it wasn't for the information I am getting on this board, I would have some significant hair loss and ulcers by now. Much to my surprise the project is going quite smoothly. Was Murphy (of murphys law) a sailor?
Resin, epoxy, polyester, I am so confused#%#@#$%
- Thread starter Bob7963
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You have a lot going on
I have been told that you can only use polyester on polyester but you can use epoxy on anything. Your boat is probably polyester so that would be ok for your repairs. I would still prefer epoxy. I use West System and have never had a problem. They have pump dispensing system which is really convenient. My friend used another brand (System 3 ?) once and it did not set up properly on a wooden mast. It became a lot of work to remove that material. You can add thickeners, fillers, and colorants for fixing almost anything. I have used it for an adhesive on occasion. You can also use a graphite additive to make a slick surface. You can thin epoxy and paint it onto or inject it into rotten wood for a possibly workable repair. Thinned epoxy also makes wood a lot more durable when painted onto the surface. You can get different components to adjust the setup time. Temperature makes a big difference in the set time too. That applies to either polyester or epoxy. Polyester is not so convenient or strong as epoxy but it is a lot cheaper for bigger repairs. Polyester also seems to have more of a lingering smell than epoxy. Some people are sensitive or become sensitive to epoxy when working with it. As to bulkheads, I would first look at an epoxy repair solution. If that works suitably, then laminate some thin teak plywood onto the sanded repaired surfaces.
I have been told that you can only use polyester on polyester but you can use epoxy on anything. Your boat is probably polyester so that would be ok for your repairs. I would still prefer epoxy. I use West System and have never had a problem. They have pump dispensing system which is really convenient. My friend used another brand (System 3 ?) once and it did not set up properly on a wooden mast. It became a lot of work to remove that material. You can add thickeners, fillers, and colorants for fixing almost anything. I have used it for an adhesive on occasion. You can also use a graphite additive to make a slick surface. You can thin epoxy and paint it onto or inject it into rotten wood for a possibly workable repair. Thinned epoxy also makes wood a lot more durable when painted onto the surface. You can get different components to adjust the setup time. Temperature makes a big difference in the set time too. That applies to either polyester or epoxy. Polyester is not so convenient or strong as epoxy but it is a lot cheaper for bigger repairs. Polyester also seems to have more of a lingering smell than epoxy. Some people are sensitive or become sensitive to epoxy when working with it. As to bulkheads, I would first look at an epoxy repair solution. If that works suitably, then laminate some thin teak plywood onto the sanded repaired surfaces.
epoxy works for me
I tackled a small boat repair job last year, and used epoxy. West Marine has a great booklet on how-to-do-it which only cost a couple of bucks. I followed directions for various types of repairs and it worked out very well. I did not do fine surface finishing, sort of a rough repair for strength, but my understanding is that that is a matter of elbow grease, or more specifically, grinding and sanding. The ability to inject epoxy inside voids makes it attractive, and pretty easy. Trial and error helps, but once you've watched a pot of epoxy boil over and turn to rock, you'll understand the system better! I used a product other than West marine's, because it was donated, but agree with Patrick that the setup and simplicity of the WM system are worth a try. The link is to a sampling of the different products -- a bit bewildering. Go to a good marine store and let then suggest the best specific epoxies.. Good luck. Sanders
I tackled a small boat repair job last year, and used epoxy. West Marine has a great booklet on how-to-do-it which only cost a couple of bucks. I followed directions for various types of repairs and it worked out very well. I did not do fine surface finishing, sort of a rough repair for strength, but my understanding is that that is a matter of elbow grease, or more specifically, grinding and sanding. The ability to inject epoxy inside voids makes it attractive, and pretty easy. Trial and error helps, but once you've watched a pot of epoxy boil over and turn to rock, you'll understand the system better! I used a product other than West marine's, because it was donated, but agree with Patrick that the setup and simplicity of the WM system are worth a try. The link is to a sampling of the different products -- a bit bewildering. Go to a good marine store and let then suggest the best specific epoxies.. Good luck. Sanders
Second try.
This is one of those posts that I answered before Phil lost everything!
But like Patrick I use West System for everything. It becomes the strongest part of any repair. I suggest you order their inexpensive booklets(Related Link). Also read whatever you can find in "Articles" over on Sailnet. For shallow gouges/crazing in gelcoat you can use real gelcoat. The color match is a problem. For deeper gouges you can build it up with West System and then use the gelcoat. Or do what I do, use MarineTex for the entire repair. It hardens like iron and I get just as good a match as with gelcoat on my '79 Cherubini. http://www.marinetex.com/
This is one of those posts that I answered before Phil lost everything!
But like Patrick I use West System for everything. It becomes the strongest part of any repair. I suggest you order their inexpensive booklets(Related Link). Also read whatever you can find in "Articles" over on Sailnet. For shallow gouges/crazing in gelcoat you can use real gelcoat. The color match is a problem. For deeper gouges you can build it up with West System and then use the gelcoat. Or do what I do, use MarineTex for the entire repair. It hardens like iron and I get just as good a match as with gelcoat on my '79 Cherubini. http://www.marinetex.com/- Status