resealing top rail

May 14, 2019
17
Irwin 37' mark III Puget Sound
My beloved "OLD" Irwin has a leakage issue. Don't we all upon reaching a certain age. It's narrowed down to needing to lift off and reseal or replace the top rail...currently 3/4 inch teak, with no cracks or other visible means of rain water getting in. Opinions from this "shipwrite" and "that" shipwrite (OMG...sometimes it seems any nincompoop can call themselves a shipwrite) vary greatly, as does the cost. $1500 to over $4000! Sounds like a lot of "Boat Shielding", also known as BS!
So, anyone out there with some experience doing top rail resealing/replacement and what tips do you have. I have a complete shop, am a fair wood worker and have lots of time.
Your suggestions, appropriate, of course, are greatly welcomed.
Barnett
 
May 27, 2004
1,996
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
Not sure, but a "Shipwright" can charge whatever the market will bear and that ranges from
$50 to $350 an hour depending upon what country you're in.
What a yard-ape will do to your boat....
EXPENSIVE!
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,433
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Barnett. No experience but I am to understand that you mean the wood cap that covers the port and starboard rails.
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There would be removal of the stanchions, and there would be bungs placed maybe every 16-24 inches along the rail. You would remove them by placing a drywall screw in the middle and tifghtening it. The screw chews up the bung and pops it out. There is likely some wood glue holding it in place. You place new bungs in when reinstalling the top rail.

Beneath the bung is a screw or a bolt. You would find nuts inside the boat holding the rail down (most likely) or you would discover that they just used screws into the fiberglass (less likely). This means it is a 2 person job. One on the inside holding a Socket wrench on to the nut and the other person backing out the screws. You want to take care so as no to damage the top rail as you remove the bung and back out the bolt.

It is a labor intensive task. Once removed you would seal (epoxy) the holes and repairing any water damage. This would be a good time to check for core dampness and repair. Use the normal epoxy fill for thru deck holes technique and then redrill the holes through the new epoxy center. My technique would be to place the top rail on the deck and use the existing holes in the wood to locate the holes in the deck rail. Otherwise who knows where you will place the holes.

One you have cleaned up the rail and varnished it ready to install. You reverse the procedure. Then set the bungs. Sand and varnish the rail. I would use MaineSail's countersink method and his Butyl-Bed-it tape to seal the holes and bolts in the reinstall.

That is the quick and dirty version. It is a process but with care you will have something to be proud of.
 
May 14, 2019
17
Irwin 37' mark III Puget Sound
Thank you both. I stand corrected on the spelling...Shipwright. W
 
May 14, 2019
17
Irwin 37' mark III Puget Sound
Thank you both. I stand corrected on the spelling..."Shipwright". Write? (Right?)
The trick about a drywall screw into the bungs is great. There are no bolts needing two people, just screws into a core, which in some cases is balsa! I will be on the watch for water damage.
Thanks again!
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,433
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Good luck Barnett.
  1. bed-it-tape
  2. Sealing Deck Penetrations To Prevent Core Rot

You can use the above ideas to help with your project.

I am suspecting that they ran the screws into fiberglass then fiberglass and core. Irwin was a better ship builder than that. You can fill the holes and then secure the screws in the epoxy. West systems has some good ideas.


 
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May 14, 2019
17
Irwin 37' mark III Puget Sound
Super ideas and sources!! Many thanks. Reviews on Irwins going back to the 80's indicate that Irwins were famous for weak points in attaching the topside to the hull.
 
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