Reseal windows on a h23
- Thread starter C Jones
- Start date
23 windows
Several years ago I replaced the windows on our 23 . I bouht the windows and sealant from this store if memory serves . What I do remember is it was a very messy job . There was an almost tar likc substance that had to be completely removed first when removing the old ports . Then you rebed the space with a black sealant that came in a caulking tube . I used a lot of tape to keep the sealant on areas I did not want to have to clean up afterward . And finally and most importantly when you put the screws back in do NOT overtighten or they will crack and your brand new windows that you have spent the afternoon installing will have a crack . In our case it was small and rather than redo the whole process a little touch of clear nair polish did the job for us . Not a hard just but messy , good luck .
Good advice from Mmsailor.
Let me expand some. On fixed ports, just be careful not to break the frame. When you get it started, put some fish line in to use as a saw blade and cut the sealant by dragging the line back and forth. Add the tape so sealant will not lapp over the rest of the boat. I forget the specific number of the sealant but make sure it is archeticual grade 100% silicon. You will need to get the old sealant off. What ever you do, only use alchol. NEVER USE ACETONE AS IT WILL MAR THE PLASTICS AND LEXAN. When you rebed the window, gently push in to get the access out. With tape on the exterior and window, you can allow that access onto the tape. Here is a secret to smooth out the seal. Either constantly spit or apply alcohol over your finger wiping off your finger constantly. As MMsailor, said, never over tighten the screws.
Let me expand some. On fixed ports, just be careful not to break the frame. When you get it started, put some fish line in to use as a saw blade and cut the sealant by dragging the line back and forth. Add the tape so sealant will not lapp over the rest of the boat. I forget the specific number of the sealant but make sure it is archeticual grade 100% silicon. You will need to get the old sealant off. What ever you do, only use alchol. NEVER USE ACETONE AS IT WILL MAR THE PLASTICS AND LEXAN. When you rebed the window, gently push in to get the access out. With tape on the exterior and window, you can allow that access onto the tape. Here is a secret to smooth out the seal. Either constantly spit or apply alcohol over your finger wiping off your finger constantly. As MMsailor, said, never over tighten the screws.
Interestingly Charles, I researched this today and found Hunters document for procedure including sealant used....
When resealing framed or frameless windows, ports and/or windscreens on Hunter sailboats, Dow Corning 795
adhesive or an equivalent should be used.
To remove a frameless windscreen or window:
1. Remove all fasteners.
2. Go to a corner of the windscreen or window, any corner will work.
3. Using the smallest ice pick (or something similar) push inward (from the outside) between the windscreen
(or window) and fiberglass deck or hull towards the interior. You are going to make a hole from the
outside to the inside. Push the ice pick in at a slight angle. Visualize the windscreen or window resting on
an underlying fiberglass embossment. Most embossment flanges will range from ½” to about 1” in width,
according to the size of the item.
4. Once completed take a piece of heavy monofilament line, about 40 pound will work (not weed eater size),
push it through the hole. Have about 12” hanging out of each side of the hole.
5. With a person inside and a person outside wrap the loose ends of monofilament around a piece of wood
or something easy on the hands.
6. Pulling the monofilament tight simultaneously pull the monofilament slowly around the circumference of
the windscreen or window slicing through the old caulking.
7. Once separated from the deck or hull remove old adhesive with blunt putty knife.
8. Before reinstalling lightly sand (600 grit) the fiberglass embossment and windscreen or window, turning
the surfaces from glossy to dull. You should see where the old caulking has etched into the two pieces
leaving a glossy surface. The new caulking will not adhere properly to this. Clean both surfaces with dish
detergent & water and allow to air dry before reinstalling.
9. Apply a generous amount of new 795 Dow adhesive and reinstall.
To remove a framed windshield, hatch or port:
1. Remove all fasteners.
2. Using a sharp putty knife gently force the blade between the mounting frame of item to be removed and
the fiberglass deck or hull to cut/separate the adhesive joint.
3. Once the adhesive joint has been cut/separated, around the entire circumference of the item, lift from
one corner section of the mounting frame.
4. Remove old adhesive with a blunt putty knife.
5. Lightly sand (600 grit) the fiberglass embossment area to remove any glossy finish.
6. Clean with dish detergent & water and allow to air dry.
7. After drying apply a generous amount of new Dow 795 adhesive and reinstall.
When resealing framed or frameless windows, ports and/or windscreens on Hunter sailboats, Dow Corning 795
adhesive or an equivalent should be used.
To remove a frameless windscreen or window:
1. Remove all fasteners.
2. Go to a corner of the windscreen or window, any corner will work.
3. Using the smallest ice pick (or something similar) push inward (from the outside) between the windscreen
(or window) and fiberglass deck or hull towards the interior. You are going to make a hole from the
outside to the inside. Push the ice pick in at a slight angle. Visualize the windscreen or window resting on
an underlying fiberglass embossment. Most embossment flanges will range from ½” to about 1” in width,
according to the size of the item.
4. Once completed take a piece of heavy monofilament line, about 40 pound will work (not weed eater size),
push it through the hole. Have about 12” hanging out of each side of the hole.
5. With a person inside and a person outside wrap the loose ends of monofilament around a piece of wood
or something easy on the hands.
6. Pulling the monofilament tight simultaneously pull the monofilament slowly around the circumference of
the windscreen or window slicing through the old caulking.
7. Once separated from the deck or hull remove old adhesive with blunt putty knife.
8. Before reinstalling lightly sand (600 grit) the fiberglass embossment and windscreen or window, turning
the surfaces from glossy to dull. You should see where the old caulking has etched into the two pieces
leaving a glossy surface. The new caulking will not adhere properly to this. Clean both surfaces with dish
detergent & water and allow to air dry before reinstalling.
9. Apply a generous amount of new 795 Dow adhesive and reinstall.
To remove a framed windshield, hatch or port:
1. Remove all fasteners.
2. Using a sharp putty knife gently force the blade between the mounting frame of item to be removed and
the fiberglass deck or hull to cut/separate the adhesive joint.
3. Once the adhesive joint has been cut/separated, around the entire circumference of the item, lift from
one corner section of the mounting frame.
4. Remove old adhesive with a blunt putty knife.
5. Lightly sand (600 grit) the fiberglass embossment area to remove any glossy finish.
6. Clean with dish detergent & water and allow to air dry.
7. After drying apply a generous amount of new Dow 795 adhesive and reinstall.