We have a 1983 Catalina 30 with refrigeration instead of an icebox. The entire refrigeration unite was replaced about a year and a half ago. We noticed that while not plugged into shore power the refrigeration cycles constantly, only taking a few second break in between. The ice slowly melts inside the fridge. We have taken out the batteries and had them checked and they are good. They were also replaced before we bought the boat. Two are gel batteries, which the refrigeration runs off when we are not on shore power. I do think the refrigeration always runs off the batteries only the shore power keeps the batery running. My question is do you think the gel batteries may be causing this? If not what else could be the cause? Thanks for any help Chip 1983 Catalina 30 http://home.san.rr.com/sdwillis
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Shore Power
Your thinking is correct...the way the system works is that the 12v batteries run the 12v refrig system and, in turn, the batteries are kept charged by the battery charger plugged into the shore power. The system should not run more or less depending on whether or not the battery charger is working. The refrig does not know that. A possibility might be when your batteries get low on charge they do not put out the power required to fully run the refrig, thus the cycling often.
Your thinking is correct...the way the system works is that the 12v batteries run the 12v refrig system and, in turn, the batteries are kept charged by the battery charger plugged into the shore power. The system should not run more or less depending on whether or not the battery charger is working. The refrig does not know that. A possibility might be when your batteries get low on charge they do not put out the power required to fully run the refrig, thus the cycling often.
Poor reefer
Let me see if I understand. You say it's cycling often, with only short breaks. Do you mean it's running most of the time, or off most of the time? If it were on most of the time, I would guess that your refrigerator is performing poorly do to inadequate insulation letting in too much heat. Or maybe the refrigerator is not cooling properly due to something wrong with the freon or whatever. Or might be something with the thermostat, which controls the cycling. If it's not running enough, then you could look for a power problem. I would check the voltage of the power feed while it's cycling, both while running on battery, and when running on the charger. It shouldn't drop below 11.5 volts or so. If you have 11.5 volts or better while it's running, I think you have enough power and there probably is something else wrong. What model is your refrigerator? My Alder-Barbour Cold Machine runs about 5 minutes on and 5 off. My battery voltage doesn't really fluctuate at all. This model refrigerator draws up to 10 amps at startup. If it sees less than 11 volts during startup, it will abort. The installation manual requires awg # 10 wire for runs of 10-15 ft. to the battery. Even heavier wire must be used for longer distances. The later model Cold Machines have a self-diagnostic feature, with a flashing LED. If the electronic control module sees a malfunction, it will switch into protective mode and make repeated attempts to restart at one-minute intervals. I have attached a link to the installation manual of for the Cold Machine. It has the malfunction code list. http://www.waecoadlerbarbour.com/docs/AdlerBarbour.pdf Let me know if you have a different type.
Let me see if I understand. You say it's cycling often, with only short breaks. Do you mean it's running most of the time, or off most of the time? If it were on most of the time, I would guess that your refrigerator is performing poorly do to inadequate insulation letting in too much heat. Or maybe the refrigerator is not cooling properly due to something wrong with the freon or whatever. Or might be something with the thermostat, which controls the cycling. If it's not running enough, then you could look for a power problem. I would check the voltage of the power feed while it's cycling, both while running on battery, and when running on the charger. It shouldn't drop below 11.5 volts or so. If you have 11.5 volts or better while it's running, I think you have enough power and there probably is something else wrong. What model is your refrigerator? My Alder-Barbour Cold Machine runs about 5 minutes on and 5 off. My battery voltage doesn't really fluctuate at all. This model refrigerator draws up to 10 amps at startup. If it sees less than 11 volts during startup, it will abort. The installation manual requires awg # 10 wire for runs of 10-15 ft. to the battery. Even heavier wire must be used for longer distances. The later model Cold Machines have a self-diagnostic feature, with a flashing LED. If the electronic control module sees a malfunction, it will switch into protective mode and make repeated attempts to restart at one-minute intervals. I have attached a link to the installation manual of for the Cold Machine. It has the malfunction code list. http://www.waecoadlerbarbour.com/docs/AdlerBarbour.pdf Let me know if you have a different type.
Runs most of the time
The make is Alder-Barbour and it runs most of the time. I will double check the make tonight and the cycle times tonight. Also this weekend I will test the voltage. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Chip 1983 30 Catalina
The make is Alder-Barbour and it runs most of the time. I will double check the make tonight and the cycle times tonight. Also this weekend I will test the voltage. Thanks for taking the time to respond. Chip 1983 30 Catalina
Now we're getting somewhere
If it runs most of the time and still isn't cold enough, that narrows it down a little. It seems like it's in one of two areas. The condenser unit (with the compressor and fan) might be under performing. Two causes could be; The condenser unit is installed in an enclosed space that is too small. The manual says you need 100 cubic ft. of volume, or else the space needs to be ventilated. The condenser basically moves heat out of the icebox into the air surrounding the condenser. If the condenser compartment is too small, it will get too warm and the condenser cannot transfer heat into the hot air. Alder-Barbour makes a ventilation kit consisting of a fan and ductwork, for just that purpose. Or the freon maybe over filled or under filled. I don't think this is very likely if the unit came from the factory. They are pre-charged at the factory. There is a way to check the frost buildup on the hose/pipe leading from the condenser to the evaporator (freezer) to get and idea if the freon is the problem. Does the evaporator frost up? If it does, then it might point towards the following. The other thing would be to look at the icebox insulation. If you had an acceptably performing refrigerator in the past, then this may not be the problem. If the condenser is running, then I doubt there is any problem with your batteries or power supply. Either the condeser is not cooling adequately, or the icebox is not holding the cold. Either case will cause the condenser to run excessively trying to bring the temperature down.
If it runs most of the time and still isn't cold enough, that narrows it down a little. It seems like it's in one of two areas. The condenser unit (with the compressor and fan) might be under performing. Two causes could be; The condenser unit is installed in an enclosed space that is too small. The manual says you need 100 cubic ft. of volume, or else the space needs to be ventilated. The condenser basically moves heat out of the icebox into the air surrounding the condenser. If the condenser compartment is too small, it will get too warm and the condenser cannot transfer heat into the hot air. Alder-Barbour makes a ventilation kit consisting of a fan and ductwork, for just that purpose. Or the freon maybe over filled or under filled. I don't think this is very likely if the unit came from the factory. They are pre-charged at the factory. There is a way to check the frost buildup on the hose/pipe leading from the condenser to the evaporator (freezer) to get and idea if the freon is the problem. Does the evaporator frost up? If it does, then it might point towards the following. The other thing would be to look at the icebox insulation. If you had an acceptably performing refrigerator in the past, then this may not be the problem. If the condenser is running, then I doubt there is any problem with your batteries or power supply. Either the condeser is not cooling adequately, or the icebox is not holding the cold. Either case will cause the condenser to run excessively trying to bring the temperature down.
the alder barbour has a mind of its ow
The new A B refers will turn on and off wile trying to start sounds like low battery .There is a on line trouble guide on there site.or you can give them a call wile on the boat and they can run you thru a test with a volt/ amp meater .They will test the unit if you send it to them. mine was 10 years old and I could not fix it my self and if i was takeing the unit out i would rather drop a new one back in. John
The new A B refers will turn on and off wile trying to start sounds like low battery .There is a on line trouble guide on there site.or you can give them a call wile on the boat and they can run you thru a test with a volt/ amp meater .They will test the unit if you send it to them. mine was 10 years old and I could not fix it my self and if i was takeing the unit out i would rather drop a new one back in. John
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