I am repowering with a Yanmar 2GM20F or 3GM30F. Has anyone installed either of these in this series boat?
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Karl Berntson
Why?
Pete, What engine do you have now and what is wrong with it that makes you consider repowering? I have the same boat with a YSE12 that still runs good, but burns a little oil. It doesn't run very well at low rpm, but it always starts (knock on wood} when I need it. What are you doing with your old engine? BTW how about adding your name to the owner directory on this site? Regards, Karl
Pete, What engine do you have now and what is wrong with it that makes you consider repowering? I have the same boat with a YSE12 that still runs good, but burns a little oil. It doesn't run very well at low rpm, but it always starts (knock on wood} when I need it. What are you doing with your old engine? BTW how about adding your name to the owner directory on this site? Regards, Karl
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terry dornan
more why???
i agree with karl_ 2GM20 is the enine that fits the best when i reasearched the matter _ but as karl says _ why???? I only looked into the issue in the event that i would not be able to find parts and service the YSE12 i have. As it turned out there was no problem in obtaining any parts associated with this engin including rebuild manuals. More relative is the simplicity of the engine and the ease of rebuild, not to mention the cost of new parts in my opinion was minimal_ i changed out rings/connection pin/rod bearings/valves/springs/fuel injection pump and fuel injector. All related gaskets, water pump components, belts and hoses for about 600.00. That is pretty low compared to the cost of the retrofit you are considering to gain maybe 6-8 hp. With shaft modifications/ prop and mounting considerations you can expect to spend about 8 to 9,000.00 for the upgrade you consider.If you have a concern relative to HP and currents _ run up the main_ motor sailing is a suitable option in lack of power conditions. terry
i agree with karl_ 2GM20 is the enine that fits the best when i reasearched the matter _ but as karl says _ why???? I only looked into the issue in the event that i would not be able to find parts and service the YSE12 i have. As it turned out there was no problem in obtaining any parts associated with this engin including rebuild manuals. More relative is the simplicity of the engine and the ease of rebuild, not to mention the cost of new parts in my opinion was minimal_ i changed out rings/connection pin/rod bearings/valves/springs/fuel injection pump and fuel injector. All related gaskets, water pump components, belts and hoses for about 600.00. That is pretty low compared to the cost of the retrofit you are considering to gain maybe 6-8 hp. With shaft modifications/ prop and mounting considerations you can expect to spend about 8 to 9,000.00 for the upgrade you consider.If you have a concern relative to HP and currents _ run up the main_ motor sailing is a suitable option in lack of power conditions. terry
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Pete Albright
Here's Why
I have just purchased the boat. I am doing a complete rewire, AC & DC. There is mast compression, most of the bulkhead tabbing is cracked, and it has 2 doz. small blisters. I will be rebuilding the galley, and re-installing the Cold Machine in a new Ice Box. I am also planning to move the shrouds outside the toe rail. The present engine has no compression, is leaking oil from the head, and sounds like the mechanic left his ball peen hammer in the cylindar. It will only start with a fresh battery and a can of either. I expect my costs to approach 40% of a new boat when I am finished. If I spend $1,500 to $2,000 now, in five years I will still have a 27 year old, under powered, noisy engine. Not counting hoses, which I would replace anyway, the engine will cost me between $5,500 and $6,500 depending on the model. Modifying the shaft to accept a 17" prop may be a later consideration, but at this time I will use a 13x13 three blade.
I have just purchased the boat. I am doing a complete rewire, AC & DC. There is mast compression, most of the bulkhead tabbing is cracked, and it has 2 doz. small blisters. I will be rebuilding the galley, and re-installing the Cold Machine in a new Ice Box. I am also planning to move the shrouds outside the toe rail. The present engine has no compression, is leaking oil from the head, and sounds like the mechanic left his ball peen hammer in the cylindar. It will only start with a fresh battery and a can of either. I expect my costs to approach 40% of a new boat when I am finished. If I spend $1,500 to $2,000 now, in five years I will still have a 27 year old, under powered, noisy engine. Not counting hoses, which I would replace anyway, the engine will cost me between $5,500 and $6,500 depending on the model. Modifying the shaft to accept a 17" prop may be a later consideration, but at this time I will use a 13x13 three blade.
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Karl Berntson
Moving Shrouds
Be very careful in moving the shrouds to the outside of the toerail. I agree that it would be nice to them there, but you might have to do some structural work in order to get the appropriate support. I'm not sure I understand why you would put this much effort and funds into a 20 year old boat. Sounds to me you would be better off buying a newer boat in the first place. Good Luck! Karl
Be very careful in moving the shrouds to the outside of the toerail. I agree that it would be nice to them there, but you might have to do some structural work in order to get the appropriate support. I'm not sure I understand why you would put this much effort and funds into a 20 year old boat. Sounds to me you would be better off buying a newer boat in the first place. Good Luck! Karl
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Pete Albright
A New Boat Would Be Nice, BUT
I don't have that much money. I think a new 310 is about $84,000. The boat is structurally sound, but needs maintenance. It has VHF, loran, EPIRB, a cold machine, reverse cycle air conditioning, a small inverter, and an Autohelm 6000 autopilot(not ST). The interior furnishings are only two years old, and it has most everthing it needs for near coastal cruising. When I am done, I will have a close approximation to a new boat. If I spend $35,000 and keep it for five years, I will consider the money well spent. If I keep it longer, all the better.
I don't have that much money. I think a new 310 is about $84,000. The boat is structurally sound, but needs maintenance. It has VHF, loran, EPIRB, a cold machine, reverse cycle air conditioning, a small inverter, and an Autohelm 6000 autopilot(not ST). The interior furnishings are only two years old, and it has most everthing it needs for near coastal cruising. When I am done, I will have a close approximation to a new boat. If I spend $35,000 and keep it for five years, I will consider the money well spent. If I keep it longer, all the better.
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Pete Albright
More on Moving Shrouds
By moving the chain plates to the exterior, outside the knees, I am keeping the structural loading in the same location on the hull. Moving the shrouds outboard decreases the loading on the shrouds. What I will actually do is remove the knees, reinforce the exterior hull, and re-install stronger knees.
By moving the chain plates to the exterior, outside the knees, I am keeping the structural loading in the same location on the hull. Moving the shrouds outboard decreases the loading on the shrouds. What I will actually do is remove the knees, reinforce the exterior hull, and re-install stronger knees.
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Pat Taylor
Best of Luck
I have a 1975 H30 that was repowered with a Universal M25XP and a 3 bladed prop by a previous owner in 1987. It gives the boat the power it should have had in the first place. Also, the 1975 model has the shrouds outboard of the toe rail as part of the original design, it is nice. I am also not haunted with the compression post problem since in 1975 Hunter was still using a keel stepped mast. Good luck, I am sure that you will enjoy the new diesel. Pat Taylor Mystic 1975 Hunter 30
I have a 1975 H30 that was repowered with a Universal M25XP and a 3 bladed prop by a previous owner in 1987. It gives the boat the power it should have had in the first place. Also, the 1975 model has the shrouds outboard of the toe rail as part of the original design, it is nice. I am also not haunted with the compression post problem since in 1975 Hunter was still using a keel stepped mast. Good luck, I am sure that you will enjoy the new diesel. Pat Taylor Mystic 1975 Hunter 30
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Kevin
Why III
Pete, Can you expand on the benifits of moving the shrouds out side of the toe rail. I have been always under the impresion that more recent designs have done the opposite. The inboard shrouds allow for reduced sheeting angle when sailing to wind, with a slight disadvantage down wind. I assume that your 30 has a B&R rig which basically can not be sailed effectively much more than 160 off the wind any way. Kevin
Pete, Can you expand on the benifits of moving the shrouds out side of the toe rail. I have been always under the impresion that more recent designs have done the opposite. The inboard shrouds allow for reduced sheeting angle when sailing to wind, with a slight disadvantage down wind. I assume that your 30 has a B&R rig which basically can not be sailed effectively much more than 160 off the wind any way. Kevin
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Pete Albright
Shrouds & Sail Plans
I still have a lot of reading to do on rigs and sail plans. I do not have a B&R rig. This series of Hunter 30 has a mast head sloop rig, with an aspect ratio of about 3.2 . I think I have a 100% jib, and a 130% roller furling genoa. I'll know for sure when the cleaner measures them. The fore-stay and back-stay are at the top of the mast. It has one set of spreaders, with one top and two lower shrouds. Moving the shouds outboard makes them stronger. I may get larger spreaders. I am having the spar shop at JSI(Johnson Sails) check out the mast and boom. You can't really get the lowers out of your way, but ducking under is still better than having them straight in your path. I am more interested in cruising than racing. If I loose a little going hard to the wind, but gain in strength and the ability to move safely about the boat I will be happy. Also on my list, is the possibility of adding a removable inner fore-stay, and storm staysail.a
I still have a lot of reading to do on rigs and sail plans. I do not have a B&R rig. This series of Hunter 30 has a mast head sloop rig, with an aspect ratio of about 3.2 . I think I have a 100% jib, and a 130% roller furling genoa. I'll know for sure when the cleaner measures them. The fore-stay and back-stay are at the top of the mast. It has one set of spreaders, with one top and two lower shrouds. Moving the shouds outboard makes them stronger. I may get larger spreaders. I am having the spar shop at JSI(Johnson Sails) check out the mast and boom. You can't really get the lowers out of your way, but ducking under is still better than having them straight in your path. I am more interested in cruising than racing. If I loose a little going hard to the wind, but gain in strength and the ability to move safely about the boat I will be happy. Also on my list, is the possibility of adding a removable inner fore-stay, and storm staysail.a
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Been there
When changing a rig
There are many considerations when changing a rig. Some are subtle. Before you do this, you might avail yourself of the bulletin board at Brion Toss's site: www.briontoss.com.
There are many considerations when changing a rig. Some are subtle. Before you do this, you might avail yourself of the bulletin board at Brion Toss's site: www.briontoss.com.
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