Replacing transducer on C310

[Clydo]

If any fellow C310 owners have replaced transducer and cable would appreciate path cable goes from bow to pedestal.
Wiring in Owner's manual not always correct. Thanks for any replies.

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
I LEAN TOO
San Jose, CA

 

[PlaneTom]

It's been 4 or 5 years since I replaced my knotmeter transducer, so not 100% sure.
From the transducer in front of the mast, the cable come mostly down the center, accessible through the long panel over the keel.
The part I can't quite remember ( and most likely the info you're looking for) is how it came up from below to above the aft bunk at the bottom of the binnacle. I don't remember it being difficult, that's maybe why I'm uncertain of the exact routing.
On my 310, the hardest part was getting the new wire up through the tubing of the binnacle, very tight fit. I had to cut the connectors off the wires and re-terminate them after the wire was in.
It wasn't too bad overall, it took most of a morning to do the whole thing, losing maybe an hour to having to go purchase the small terminals.
I have talked to a couple people that didn't bother, they cut into the cable near the transducer and spliced in the new transducer. I'm sure that is doable, but the new connections would need to be well waterproofed in the bilge.

 

[Clydo]

It's been 4 or 5 years since I replaced my knotmeter transducer, so not 100% sure.
From the transducer in front of the mast, the cable come mostly down the center, accessible through the long panel over the keel.
The part I can't quite remember ( and most likely the info you're looking for) is how it came up from below to above the aft bunk at the bottom of the binnacle. I don't remember it being difficult, that's maybe why I'm uncertain of the exact routing.
On my 310, the hardest part was getting the new wire up through the tubing of the binnacle, very tight fit. I had to cut the connectors off the wires and re-terminate them after the wire was in.
It wasn't too bad overall, it took most of a morning to do the whole thing, losing maybe an hour to having to go purchase the small terminals.
I have talked to a couple people that didn't bother, they cut into the cable near the transducer and spliced in the new transducer. I'm sure that is doable, but the new connections would need to be well waterproofed in the bilge.

Thank you for your response. I thought splice would be way to go. When talked to RayMarine they said cable very sensitive
to "interference" and might get error readings. Would be interesting to know if those that spliced were happy with performance.
Again thank you for your help..

Clyde Thorington
C310 # 245
I LEAN TOO
San Jose, CA

 

[PlaneTom]

I got the same answer from Raymarine at the time. It didn't look like a bad routing, so I decided to replace the whole cable. Other than going up the tube through the binnacle, it wasn't hard at all.
It isn't a strong signal from the transducer, it is possible that the signal wires are shielded. If that is the case, splicing it near the transducer would interrupt the shielding unless done correctly, leaving it susceptible to interference.
I'm more used to doing turbine aircraft wiring and troubleshooting, and shielding would be a factor in that case, but I don't know if the transducer wiring is done the same way. I did mean to take apart the old transducer cable to check it, but got sidetracked and forgot. I don't think I still have it.