Caroline has got a busted toe rail. Cutting the wood I think will be a job, but nothing I can't handle. I will however take any advice offered on any of the work. My biggest job I think will be removing 40 sheet traveler bolts, looks like they are very hard to get to. I think maybe possibly I can just drop the nut of the bolt almost to the end of the bolt on all 40 allowing me to raise the traveler enough for toe rail refit. If this is possible the labor of getting the nut started back on to the bolt will not exist. The bolt holes were drilled right between the two top pieces of wood. The rail consist of three one & a quarter x one half inch pieces of teak, one being on the side and the other two on top, laying side by side. The toe rail on the inside is in good shape, the outside one on top, and the side one is busted, thanks to the guy with the anchor the size of a coke can. All advice welcome. Glenn aka Painted Pony
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We did as Ross suggested with our teak toe rail
after some significant damage. Once it was all repaired and refinished and nice looking it got damaged again (almost immediately) by a launch in bouncy water. We now have several sections that are damaged and in need of repair and I am loath to do anything about it as I fear it will just get dinged up again. My advice would be to do this repair just prior to when you go to sell the boat and live with the damage for now. Teak toe rails (rub rail, cap rail etc) look nice but do not hold up well under any stress. I would prefer to have the metal toe rail with holes in it as is much easier to attach useful hardware to.
after some significant damage. Once it was all repaired and refinished and nice looking it got damaged again (almost immediately) by a launch in bouncy water. We now have several sections that are damaged and in need of repair and I am loath to do anything about it as I fear it will just get dinged up again. My advice would be to do this repair just prior to when you go to sell the boat and live with the damage for now. Teak toe rails (rub rail, cap rail etc) look nice but do not hold up well under any stress. I would prefer to have the metal toe rail with holes in it as is much easier to attach useful hardware to.
Re: Toe rail ?'s
Welllllllllllll Hummmm guy's, I guess I under! stated the damage. I'd like to think it's going to be a relatively easy job, at-least that's how I'm going to keep thinking. The damage is pretty extensive, it goes 28ft. So I think I'll do the whole thing. D. Caleb was thinking, if it was bareable to look at I would leave it, but I get nauseous looking at it. And it has been replaced before, with a fool proof system, It looks like they used a hack saw, or something with a real thin saw blade, cut on a simple 45 degree, new wood scribed from extracted area, glued and screwed, all short pieces about 6ft.. The other side has two pieces. I been thinking about this a couple of years now, and it's just a systematic operation, I just wanted to make sure I look at all angles thanks guy's. Glenn
Welllllllllllll Hummmm guy's, I guess I under! stated the damage. I'd like to think it's going to be a relatively easy job, at-least that's how I'm going to keep thinking. The damage is pretty extensive, it goes 28ft. So I think I'll do the whole thing. D. Caleb was thinking, if it was bareable to look at I would leave it, but I get nauseous looking at it. And it has been replaced before, with a fool proof system, It looks like they used a hack saw, or something with a real thin saw blade, cut on a simple 45 degree, new wood scribed from extracted area, glued and screwed, all short pieces about 6ft.. The other side has two pieces. I been thinking about this a couple of years now, and it's just a systematic operation, I just wanted to make sure I look at all angles thanks guy's. Glenn
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