Purchased an old Hunter 30 that I am in the process of getting into useable condition. Does anyone know of a way to change thru hull fittings without hauling the boat out. I have a few bronze valves that have corroded beyond opening and closing. Since it is the valve itself I really don't need to pull the whole thru hull, only really need to remove the old valve from the flange and replace it. I had at one time read of a fellow that did and emergency replacement by putting a bowl over the whole while someone on the inside screwed a new new fitting on. If anyone knows of a better way please let me know. Thanks
Replacing Thru Hulls
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That is the problem
Yep, that is the problem at hand. In fact I'm not sure they aren't just standard plumbing fittings instead of marine grade. Any ideas on replacing them while the hull is still in the water?
Yep, that is the problem at hand. In fact I'm not sure they aren't just standard plumbing fittings instead of marine grade. Any ideas on replacing them while the hull is still in the water?
Never mind
Never mind, I just read the caption on your previous response. Thats a good idea. Thanks
Never mind, I just read the caption on your previous response. Thats a good idea. Thanks
Plug or bowl would work but why change a sinking
I guess that a wood plug (I have several emergency plugs on board my boat) or a bowl might work but in an old thru hull fitting with a corroded valve will be very hard to get off. Even if you soak the valve threads with penetrating oil well in advance it's likely that when you turn to valve with a wrench to get it off you'll break the seal of the thru hull and it will leak. The wood backing plate on the thru hull (I don't think Hunter used fiberglass backers) might be rotted and soft and may fall apart when you start. Wost case is that you break the fiberglass skin around the thru hull. Question why risk it? In an emergency I understand the need and the need but I wouldn't risk it by choice. This is a repair than need to be done before the season on the hart or on a short haul. Just my thought on this. Good Luck
I guess that a wood plug (I have several emergency plugs on board my boat) or a bowl might work but in an old thru hull fitting with a corroded valve will be very hard to get off. Even if you soak the valve threads with penetrating oil well in advance it's likely that when you turn to valve with a wrench to get it off you'll break the seal of the thru hull and it will leak. The wood backing plate on the thru hull (I don't think Hunter used fiberglass backers) might be rotted and soft and may fall apart when you start. Wost case is that you break the fiberglass skin around the thru hull. Question why risk it? In an emergency I understand the need and the need but I wouldn't risk it by choice. This is a repair than need to be done before the season on the hart or on a short haul. Just my thought on this. Good Luck
...I just did this
I just replaced a marleon valve that the handle had broken off...I did this while in the water BUT I planned it all out and made sure our local travel lift was operating...just in case I needed a quick haul out. I did not use a "plug" in the thru hull from the outside; however, I like that idea. I have read where others have used a wad of plumbers putty for the same effect. After removing the valve, I just stuffed a piece of paper towel in the thru hull to stop the incoming water. Then I removed the piece of paper and quickly screwed on the new valve. I estimate that I took on 1 quart of water. Be VERY careful not to turn the existing thruhull and have all tools handy. My biggest concern in your case is if the valve is corroded onto the thruhull.
I just replaced a marleon valve that the handle had broken off...I did this while in the water BUT I planned it all out and made sure our local travel lift was operating...just in case I needed a quick haul out. I did not use a "plug" in the thru hull from the outside; however, I like that idea. I have read where others have used a wad of plumbers putty for the same effect. After removing the valve, I just stuffed a piece of paper towel in the thru hull to stop the incoming water. Then I removed the piece of paper and quickly screwed on the new valve. I estimate that I took on 1 quart of water. Be VERY careful not to turn the existing thruhull and have all tools handy. My biggest concern in your case is if the valve is corroded onto the thruhull.
Good Ideas
Thanks for all of the info. These are all good ideas and points. I may just wait a little longer until I've got a list of repairs that require a haul out and swap them out then. It never occured to me that the thru hulls might shift. My only problem is the local boat yard does not allow any work done by the owner on the haul out at all so changing a few valves may end up costing me a small fortune. Thanks Again
Thanks for all of the info. These are all good ideas and points. I may just wait a little longer until I've got a list of repairs that require a haul out and swap them out then. It never occured to me that the thru hulls might shift. My only problem is the local boat yard does not allow any work done by the owner on the haul out at all so changing a few valves may end up costing me a small fortune. Thanks Again
Find a new yard
Kidding aside I assume that you purchased an older Hunter becasue you are not related to the Sultan of Burnai and don't have a money tree or oil well in you back yard. With limited funds and an old boat you need to find a yard that allows you to do your own work. I understand the rules related to bring in outside workers which compete with teh year and possible the limitation on bottom paiting and sanding... but unless you very wealthy its not feasable to pay the year for simple work.
Kidding aside I assume that you purchased an older Hunter becasue you are not related to the Sultan of Burnai and don't have a money tree or oil well in you back yard. With limited funds and an old boat you need to find a yard that allows you to do your own work. I understand the rules related to bring in outside workers which compete with teh year and possible the limitation on bottom paiting and sanding... but unless you very wealthy its not feasable to pay the year for simple work.
Toilet Bowl Plunger
I do not recommend this system (in other words, I would not try it myself) but I watched my bottom cleaning diver pull it off at least 3 times in Long beach, Ca. He used a toilet bowl plunger to plug the hole. He had everything set up inside the boat to make the change over as speed is everything. His partner was in the water with a plug in case anything went wrong - which it never did but you can't be too careful. Another thing to think about when replacing a thru hull is the installation of a backing plate. A lot of mates forget this piece of the installation and it is a mistake. Use a good piece of teak or marine plywood and not some old scrape you find laying around. Give it a good coat of epoxy before installation. Do it right and you'll never have to worry about it.
I do not recommend this system (in other words, I would not try it myself) but I watched my bottom cleaning diver pull it off at least 3 times in Long beach, Ca. He used a toilet bowl plunger to plug the hole. He had everything set up inside the boat to make the change over as speed is everything. His partner was in the water with a plug in case anything went wrong - which it never did but you can't be too careful. Another thing to think about when replacing a thru hull is the installation of a backing plate. A lot of mates forget this piece of the installation and it is a mistake. Use a good piece of teak or marine plywood and not some old scrape you find laying around. Give it a good coat of epoxy before installation. Do it right and you'll never have to worry about it.
Comodius Tools
Hi, I actually thought of that but wasn't sure if the plunger would actually create a suction since it is completely under water. I may still try to give it a shot. Did he actually change the thru hulls or just the valves? Thanks for the info. Beau
Hi, I actually thought of that but wasn't sure if the plunger would actually create a suction since it is completely under water. I may still try to give it a shot. Did he actually change the thru hulls or just the valves? Thanks for the info. Beau
Replace Thru Hull
Beau: The guy I used to clean my bottom was born under water!! I would not try half the stuff he pulled off. Anyway, rememember this is a 2 man deal with 2 experienced divers. They used this plunger method to replace thru hulls. Some water does get in during the replacement procedure but not much. When the inside guy unscrews the nut and pushes the valve stem out and into the plunger, his hand is over the hole. The water guy then releases the plunger, letting the stem fall away, and shoves in the new stem and pushes the plunger back in place. The inside guy guy slaps on the backing plate, which has the sealent and whatever else they use, and tightens the nut, puts in the valve and they are done. It happens about as fast as I just described it. I would NEVER, NEVER attempt this on my own. Most boat yards have a quick "in and out" where you the boat never comes off the ways. They pull you out of the water, you do your thing and they splash you back in. Some times the cheapest way around things ends up being the most expensive - especially if a mate does not know what he is doing. Once I tried replacing a washer in a shower at home. Unfortunately, I applied too much pressure and broke the connection behind the wall. Not only did I have to get a plumber to fix the mess I created but I had to have tile guy replace a section of the tile. It would have been cheaper to hire an expert in the first place. I never have forgotten my shower experience and I use that experience in a lot of things, mainly in determing if whatever I'm considering doing is something I should attempt. "A man has to know his limitations"
Beau: The guy I used to clean my bottom was born under water!! I would not try half the stuff he pulled off. Anyway, rememember this is a 2 man deal with 2 experienced divers. They used this plunger method to replace thru hulls. Some water does get in during the replacement procedure but not much. When the inside guy unscrews the nut and pushes the valve stem out and into the plunger, his hand is over the hole. The water guy then releases the plunger, letting the stem fall away, and shoves in the new stem and pushes the plunger back in place. The inside guy guy slaps on the backing plate, which has the sealent and whatever else they use, and tightens the nut, puts in the valve and they are done. It happens about as fast as I just described it. I would NEVER, NEVER attempt this on my own. Most boat yards have a quick "in and out" where you the boat never comes off the ways. They pull you out of the water, you do your thing and they splash you back in. Some times the cheapest way around things ends up being the most expensive - especially if a mate does not know what he is doing. Once I tried replacing a washer in a shower at home. Unfortunately, I applied too much pressure and broke the connection behind the wall. Not only did I have to get a plumber to fix the mess I created but I had to have tile guy replace a section of the tile. It would have been cheaper to hire an expert in the first place. I never have forgotten my shower experience and I use that experience in a lot of things, mainly in determing if whatever I'm considering doing is something I should attempt. "A man has to know his limitations"
Good Advice
Don, thanks for the information and the words of wisdom. All quite beneficial and worth remembering. I've had a few shower washer incidents myself as I've renovated four houses, built three motorcycles, restored a bunch of power boats and the list goes on. But, I've never changed a thru hull. I took a look at the problem valves today and there is enough room on the stem of the trough hulls to get pipe wrench to keep them from turning so I may be able to get the valves off w/o dealing with the thru hulls. My local boat yard will have nothing to do with allowing someone to do their own work on a haul out. I'm not about to give them $400.00 so I can spend 30 minutes changing $80.00 worth of valves. If worse comes to worse I'll wait on the valves until I'm ready for a bottom job. I'll keep your advice in my back pocket. Thanks again.
Don, thanks for the information and the words of wisdom. All quite beneficial and worth remembering. I've had a few shower washer incidents myself as I've renovated four houses, built three motorcycles, restored a bunch of power boats and the list goes on. But, I've never changed a thru hull. I took a look at the problem valves today and there is enough room on the stem of the trough hulls to get pipe wrench to keep them from turning so I may be able to get the valves off w/o dealing with the thru hulls. My local boat yard will have nothing to do with allowing someone to do their own work on a haul out. I'm not about to give them $400.00 so I can spend 30 minutes changing $80.00 worth of valves. If worse comes to worse I'll wait on the valves until I'm ready for a bottom job. I'll keep your advice in my back pocket. Thanks again.
Thru hull seal
I changed the 1.5" head and galley sink thru hulls on my old 1980 H30 and I had the boat hauled. On this Cherubini model, Hunter Marine installed a red rubber gasket under the thru hull flange on the outside of the hull. There was no other sealant and I suspect that it would leak badly if disturbed. It can be done but the thru hull must be held rigidly so it will not turn as that will cause it to leak.
I changed the 1.5" head and galley sink thru hulls on my old 1980 H30 and I had the boat hauled. On this Cherubini model, Hunter Marine installed a red rubber gasket under the thru hull flange on the outside of the hull. There was no other sealant and I suspect that it would leak badly if disturbed. It can be done but the thru hull must be held rigidly so it will not turn as that will cause it to leak.
Thru Hulls
Hey Beau, I have a 83 hunter 30 that had the same problem. mine was originally a salt water boat that was used in the great lakes. Now it's going back to salt water. The thru hulls are probably corroded to the valves so that when you turn them to remove them, the whole thing will turn. We had a wrench on the thru hull, that was two feet long, to hold it in place. The valve was so corroded that the wrench on the inside wouldn't break it free. The thru hull ended up turning anyways, and I ended up having to use a sawsall to cut the thru hull. just to get it off the boat. it was an expensive way to do it, but the only way. As old as the thru hulls are, it would be best to remove and re-bed them. hopefully, yours will come off without having to cut them. Dave PS the one under the galley sink is a real bitch! lol!
Hey Beau, I have a 83 hunter 30 that had the same problem. mine was originally a salt water boat that was used in the great lakes. Now it's going back to salt water. The thru hulls are probably corroded to the valves so that when you turn them to remove them, the whole thing will turn. We had a wrench on the thru hull, that was two feet long, to hold it in place. The valve was so corroded that the wrench on the inside wouldn't break it free. The thru hull ended up turning anyways, and I ended up having to use a sawsall to cut the thru hull. just to get it off the boat. it was an expensive way to do it, but the only way. As old as the thru hulls are, it would be best to remove and re-bed them. hopefully, yours will come off without having to cut them. Dave PS the one under the galley sink is a real bitch! lol!
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