Replacing thru hulls on 33.5

Status
Not open for further replies.
D

Doug

We will be replacing all of our thru-hulls next haul out in the spring. We only have 5 under the water line and our boat is 12 years old. Since we had some bad galvanic corrosion on our keel and our strut we thought this would be a good replacement as it's impossible to see the condition of the metal on an installed thru-hull and that's the last thing on a boat we want to fail. I have a couple of questions: First, hunter used wood disks on the bildge side of our thru-hulls. I know this is pretty common on production and custom boats of all price ranges. But wood in the bildge has always bugged me. I want to use a water resistant material. Any ideas? I thought about the recycled wood/rubber fiber composites used on exterior decks (Trex is a common brand). We could band saw to 1/2" thick. 2) The bottom of the 33.5's are very flat. Is it really necessary to fair the bildge side of the disks (wood or other) to fit the very slight rounding or could we just torque the sea-cocks down to them and let them fit themselves to contour? 3) Regarding seacocks. I have seen marine UL listed seacocks in bronze that have plastic balls in valve ($40.00 on up depending on size) or ones with stainless and teflon seats that start around $75.00+. Anybody ever see a plastic ball valve fail in a seacock? Any other comments or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. We intend to get all the supplies we need prior to starting the job (like that ever works out, right?) so we can finish in a day. Thanks. Doug
 
B

Bill

Thru hulls

This will start a good discussion. The following is my opinion not an expert's. I used wood saturated in epoxy with beacoup caulk. The wood flexes enough to take up any curves. If it is truly flat you probably can get away without the wood if you use enough caulk. Seacocks - vs - ball valves. West Marine has a dissertation in their catalogue about not using ball valves since they have a tapered thread and thru hulls have straight threads. Guess which are more expensive? I used bronze ball valves from Home Depot. They appeaar to haave stainless or chrome plated bronze balls. I sail fresh water so corrosion is not an issue with me given the old gate valves lasted 15 years without any problem. Cranking down on the thru hull locking nut with a little caulk to keep it there will cinch up your thru hull quite nicely. Prior to installing, I very lightly ground down the first 3-4 threads on thru hull to get a good bite on the valve and got five good turns when screwing it down using teflon tape. These are not going anywhere. Just open and close them routinely which you should be doing anyway. Never leave one open if you are leaving the boat. They have been doing that for years around here and I see many of the new boats are using Bronze ball valves. If you aare not comfortable with this, then by all means buy bronze seacocks and bronze thru hulls so you can sleep better. Stay away from plastic if at all possible. Have fun
 
C

Colin Campbell

UHMW for washers.

I would use either cast nylon sheet instead of the wooden washers, a sheet 1/2" thick x 12" x 12" will cost you about $30 but they will last a lifetime. You can get it from McMaster Carr (330) 995-5500, they ship next day all over the states.
 
B

Bob Rutland

Star Board

What about using this new plastic "Star Board" material as your thru-hull washer. It might be to thick, but you could always rip it down. Just a thought. Good Luck, Bob Rutland S/V H31 Lady Di II
 
Status
Not open for further replies.