The Handle on my Forespar Marelon thru hull broke. Luckily it was in the closed position as this is the holding tank thru-hull. I would like to replace it, but can't make my mind up to go with another "plastic" thru-hull or to try one of the newer bronze seacocks with the grease fitting. This thru-hull does not get used very often, since we pump out on the Chesapeake Bay, and I forget to work it open and closed during the season to keep it limber. Anyone have any experience replacing a plastic thru-hull with a bronze one? I do all my own work.
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I like bronze
I know that there is lots of evidence to support the theory that marelon is a perfectly acceptable material from which to make underwater fittings, but I still feel better with bronze down there. In part, this is because here in Maine it is not impossible that at some point the water the boat is in will freeze before I am able to get the boat out. Bronze is a lot more likely to survive ice expansion than Marelon. Evidence to support this is largely anecdotal, but all of the commercial boats that winter in the water here have all bronze fittings. In your particular example, the zerk fitting is as important as the strength. The ability to keep the ball propperly lubed will go a long way toward increasing ease of use if you only flip the thing at long intervals. I would maintain there is a safety factor there as well because if the valve is easy to operate you will not have to put a lot of stress on the through-hull itself to use it. In the course of double checking my boat before launch this past april, I discovered that my outlet seacock was impossible to operate. I used a breaker bar on the handle to final get it open, but in doing so I loosened the through-hull itself. This is, of-course, the night before I planned to launch. (Insert image of Justin frantically changing his through-hull and reinstalling ass'd plumbing as the hauler taps his foot waiting.) Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I know that there is lots of evidence to support the theory that marelon is a perfectly acceptable material from which to make underwater fittings, but I still feel better with bronze down there. In part, this is because here in Maine it is not impossible that at some point the water the boat is in will freeze before I am able to get the boat out. Bronze is a lot more likely to survive ice expansion than Marelon. Evidence to support this is largely anecdotal, but all of the commercial boats that winter in the water here have all bronze fittings. In your particular example, the zerk fitting is as important as the strength. The ability to keep the ball propperly lubed will go a long way toward increasing ease of use if you only flip the thing at long intervals. I would maintain there is a safety factor there as well because if the valve is easy to operate you will not have to put a lot of stress on the through-hull itself to use it. In the course of double checking my boat before launch this past april, I discovered that my outlet seacock was impossible to operate. I used a breaker bar on the handle to final get it open, but in doing so I loosened the through-hull itself. This is, of-course, the night before I planned to launch. (Insert image of Justin frantically changing his through-hull and reinstalling ass'd plumbing as the hauler taps his foot waiting.) Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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Justin - O'day Owners' Web
(insert sound of Justin smacking his forehead)
I just re-read your post and would point out that I missed a vital step. If you go to a bronze seacock, you should replace the through-hull with it. From your post, I can't tell what all you were planning to actually replace. The differing expansion and contraction rates of Marelon and bronze make connecting them a dicey proposition. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
I just re-read your post and would point out that I missed a vital step. If you go to a bronze seacock, you should replace the through-hull with it. From your post, I can't tell what all you were planning to actually replace. The differing expansion and contraction rates of Marelon and bronze make connecting them a dicey proposition. Justin - O'day Owners' Web
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GARRY @ S/V TASHTEGO
Seacocks
Just a note that virtually all of the posts here about seacocks are about broken Marelon parts. Bronze doesn't seem to give the same amount of trouble. You should also read the previous posts about thruhulls and seacocks. You should also have a look at the discussions in the West Marine catalog on the subject. Don't mix straight (NPS) and tapered (NPT) threads.
Just a note that virtually all of the posts here about seacocks are about broken Marelon parts. Bronze doesn't seem to give the same amount of trouble. You should also read the previous posts about thruhulls and seacocks. You should also have a look at the discussions in the West Marine catalog on the subject. Don't mix straight (NPS) and tapered (NPT) threads.
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John J
Seacock
Since I guess I started this latest round of marelon bashing.... You are not to mix and match materials. Although Catalina and Forespar have been good about replacing it,I certainly have some doubts in my mind. I will probably make the investment and change all of mine when I pull the boat out next summer. (One of the small benefits of the South, I will sail 12 months a year)
Since I guess I started this latest round of marelon bashing.... You are not to mix and match materials. Although Catalina and Forespar have been good about replacing it,I certainly have some doubts in my mind. I will probably make the investment and change all of mine when I pull the boat out next summer. (One of the small benefits of the South, I will sail 12 months a year)
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Don on Forever C-34 Hull 1258
Can I replace myself!
Thanks, for all of your replies. You confirmed what I was thinking. And yes I knew not to mix plastic and metal. But can I get the old thru-hull out myself? Any suggestions?
Thanks, for all of your replies. You confirmed what I was thinking. And yes I knew not to mix plastic and metal. But can I get the old thru-hull out myself? Any suggestions?
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GERRY HULL
REPLACING BROKEN THROUGH HULL
I'VE BROKEN TWO SO FAR ON ACADIA # 415 2 CAB. HAVE DECIDED SINCE THEY ARE EASY TO REPLACE TO KEEP A FEW SPARES ABOARD AND NOT GO TO BRONZE AND ALL THE WORK AND EXPENSE OF BONDING THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO THE MACHINERY. MY FIX IS TO TAKE A SEACOCK WOODEN PLUG [WEST MARINE] SWIM UNDER THE BOAT AND LIGHTLY TAP IT INTO THE OPENING. I PUT A SCREW EYE IN THE END OF IT AND ATTACHED A SMALL LINE. THEN GO BACK INSIDE AND UNSCREW THE BROKEN TOP HALF, REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW ONE ,AND THEN GO OUT ON DECK AND PULL THE STRING A FEW TIMES AND OUT IT COMES. JOB DONE FAIRLY QUICKLY AND CHEAPLY. I'M DOING THIS IN 80 DEGREE FLORIDA WATER. BETTER HAVE A WETSUIT ABOARD IF YOU ARE FROM MAINE.
I'VE BROKEN TWO SO FAR ON ACADIA # 415 2 CAB. HAVE DECIDED SINCE THEY ARE EASY TO REPLACE TO KEEP A FEW SPARES ABOARD AND NOT GO TO BRONZE AND ALL THE WORK AND EXPENSE OF BONDING THE WHOLE SYSTEM TO THE MACHINERY. MY FIX IS TO TAKE A SEACOCK WOODEN PLUG [WEST MARINE] SWIM UNDER THE BOAT AND LIGHTLY TAP IT INTO THE OPENING. I PUT A SCREW EYE IN THE END OF IT AND ATTACHED A SMALL LINE. THEN GO BACK INSIDE AND UNSCREW THE BROKEN TOP HALF, REPLACE IT WITH THE NEW ONE ,AND THEN GO OUT ON DECK AND PULL THE STRING A FEW TIMES AND OUT IT COMES. JOB DONE FAIRLY QUICKLY AND CHEAPLY. I'M DOING THIS IN 80 DEGREE FLORIDA WATER. BETTER HAVE A WETSUIT ABOARD IF YOU ARE FROM MAINE.
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Ed Schenck
Also see letter in current "PS".
Practical Sailor letter writer broke his Marelon seacock and covered the inlet without going in the water. Then repaired without much water coming in.
Practical Sailor letter writer broke his Marelon seacock and covered the inlet without going in the water. Then repaired without much water coming in.
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justin - o'day owners' web
Knocking out the old through-hull
Getting your old through-hull out shouldn't be too difficult. unscrew the remains of your seacock from it and stand on it. If it doesn't want to let go, get a guitar strings from your local discount store. Use one of the heavier ones where you have a copper wire wrapped around a core. Wrap each end of the guitar string around a dowel (half a pencil will do) to make a wire saw. Wrap the wire around the through hull from the outside and saw it out using the dowels. Then go back inside and knock it out with your foot. justin - o'day owners' web
Getting your old through-hull out shouldn't be too difficult. unscrew the remains of your seacock from it and stand on it. If it doesn't want to let go, get a guitar strings from your local discount store. Use one of the heavier ones where you have a copper wire wrapped around a core. Wrap each end of the guitar string around a dowel (half a pencil will do) to make a wire saw. Wrap the wire around the through hull from the outside and saw it out using the dowels. Then go back inside and knock it out with your foot. justin - o'day owners' web
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