Replacing the Switch Panel on an 88 boat

[...3TacksontheWater]

Hello all. I've run into a snag right out of the gate. My 1988 Switch Panel has both a Bow and a Running light position:
1) Cabin
2) Bow
3) Deck
4) Running
5) Anchor
6) Accessory
Can I assume that the bow and stern lights are on one switch and that the "running" position is what we now refer to as the steaming light and on today's new panel when we say running that's both the bow and stern lights on one switch? I'm going with the white Catalina Direct 8 position panel:
1) Cabin
2) Running
3) Anchor
4) Steaming
5) Deck
6) 7) and 8) Accessory

Thank you in advance for your help!

George

 

[LakeShark]

I have an 87 with the same panel and never changed the OEM layout which is as follows:

1. Cabin= interior lights
2. Bow = steaming light
3. Deck = Deck light below steaming light
4. Running = Red/green bow light and white stern light
5. Anchor = White all around light on mast head
6. Accessory = 12v outlet (I installed) depth sounder, and any other optional electronics

(Note: I am not 100% sure but I believe my numbers are reversed from yours as accessory is the very top switch and cabin the the bottom switch just above service but I am not sure how you numbered them.

As for your new plan and panel what you want to put on the switch is up to you. Just consult the C22 electrical diagram to know what lights cant be isolated.

On a side note I like the running lights all on one switch as I may be running with the mast down or have an issue with the deck plug that can be resolved with a flash light or lantern in a pinch.

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

LakeShark, thank you for your quick and, informative reply. I listed the positions from top to bottom. So, on the new panel "running" moves from the old position 4 to position 2 on the new panel and "bow" moves to position 4 - Steaming on the new panel. I'm posting a picture of the old panel and will add a pic of the new panel when I get back to the boat a bit later in the day.

 

[LakeShark]

That’s not the original panel. Is there a reason you’re replacing it?

The original had no circuit breaker on the top and toggle switches for each item with their own fuse. As I understand it Catalina did not upgrade to that black style until much later (might be the mark II) boats if memory serves. I don’t have a pic of my panel to share but it looks like someone has already done a nice upgrade.

the order is slightly different as well but that pretty insignificant if you ask me.

 

[LakeShark]

For reference here is the OEM manual for the new design catalina 22s. The original design had the panel on the port dinette seat base near the floor.

f stands for fuse and S for toggle switch on the panel layout.

 

[morbidfollower]

I have the same black panel on my 88 and it is stock. My 82 had the panel lakeshark describes.

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

Thank you both LakeShark and morbidfollower. I've inserted the picture of the new switch panel beneath the picture of the panel it replaces. There's absolutely nothing electrically wrong with the old panel. But, I like not only the look but especially the improved legibility of the new panel. Black letters on white are far easier to read in my opinion. Had the installed panel used a bold font, quite possibly, I would have no need to switch panels. With the old panel I found that I would have to sit down square with the panel and wait for my eyes to adjust before I could read the lettering. Part of it is being nearsighted with progressive lenses, part is that I am tall and part is that the New Design's switch panel is in the corner of the cabin. We're not even going to go close to the old age part. Lol.
As a final thought, I really did like the layout of my first 22's panel with the first switch being the running lights. Being day sailors who sail into the evening before setting anchor, what is the first thing you do as the sun sets? Certainly, cabin lights are important but only after you sail in and drop anchor. If the PTB's offered a "new" switch panel with running lights at the top of the list, I could easily see myself swapping panels one more time.

George

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

Well, progress is being made, albeit very slowly. Why, you may ask ties directly into my New Halyard Plate project started on or about May 20th:

Installing a new Halyard Plate and Improved Mast Step

There's nothing wrong with my OEM mast step but, the safety of reefing lines led to the cockpit is very compelling. Is there a preferred sealant to use? My plan was to use Bed-It Butyl tape. George

forums.sailboatowners.com

This simple project turned very complicated when I could not in any way, shape or form get a socket on the aft bolt nut to remove the second of the two bolts under the compression post's top of cabin plate securing the mast plate to the deck. I ended up cutting off the head on the topside bolt but still could not free the stud as the mast wiring coming up from the compression post was obstructing the removal. So, I cut the fourplex round cable and finally hammered out the old bolt. The next issue was that I still couldn't get a socket around the aft nut when installing the new mounting bolts. I trued the thru deck hole and still could not get things to work. It turns out, after a lot of head scratching that sometime over the past 35 years, the compression post had shifted a half inch forward and an eight of an inch to port. So, project delayed but, solution found. A bit of persuasion with a rubber mallet and wood block nudged the Compression Post back to where it belonged. In hindsight, because both bolts holding the mast plate to the compression post were tight and corroded with age, until I got to the point of removing both bolts, the nudging of the compression post would have not been possible. Unfortunately since I did not realize the underling issue I wound up sacrificing the perfectly good original mast lighting cable, and I now needed to run all new fourplex from the switch panel to the new deck connector. Running the cable took two project days. One day to run the cable up the compression post and maneuver enough workable cable to reach the deck connector and, one day to run the cable back to the switch panel. So the good news is that it is possible to run new cable in a New Design C-22 to the deck connector as originally run (nice and neatly, out of sight and mind) through the under deck PVC tube and up through the compression post. Now, the weekend after I was able to get all of the new fourplex in place I've been able to widen the switch panel opening to accommodate the new switch panel, drill new mounting holes and epoxy in the negative buss bar mounting plate. Things are looking up!

George