I hope I am in the right forum and you can give some advice. I have had a fuel spill in the boat I bought recently. When I pulled up the teak and holly sole it was black on the underside. I felt this contributed to the strong smells. I am in the process of replacing the sole. My question: Would it be best to polyeurithane the sole? Would that make it slick? Do you suggest staining the replacement teak and holly before I poly it? Would you suggest sealing the underside or should it breath? Would Thompson's Water Seal be appropriate if it is suggested to seal this area? I have been reading Tech notes and have picked up several books on referbing boats and have found nothing on this topic. Thanks for any advice you can give me.
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Peggie Hall/HeadMistress
I wouldn't use Thompsons or similar
They tend to be a bit oily for interior use--in a house or a boat. That's about all I know about refinishing a teak and holly sole. You are in the wrong forum--this one is devoted to sanitation and plumbing (which is why I'm called the "Head" Mistress)--but most people read it, so I wouldn't repost elsewhere yet. Howver, I do know something about getting rid of odors...and you definitely want to make sure you get ALL the fuel up and any that's soaked into below-the-sole areas. Otherwise, you'll never get rid of the diesel smell. That will require lots of strong detergent and water, a thorough scrubbing--maybe more than once--and those areas must be absolutely bone dry before you put down a new sole...'cuz if you trap any moisture, you'll just trade a diesel odor for a mildew odor. Good luck with your project!
They tend to be a bit oily for interior use--in a house or a boat. That's about all I know about refinishing a teak and holly sole. You are in the wrong forum--this one is devoted to sanitation and plumbing (which is why I'm called the "Head" Mistress)--but most people read it, so I wouldn't repost elsewhere yet. Howver, I do know something about getting rid of odors...and you definitely want to make sure you get ALL the fuel up and any that's soaked into below-the-sole areas. Otherwise, you'll never get rid of the diesel smell. That will require lots of strong detergent and water, a thorough scrubbing--maybe more than once--and those areas must be absolutely bone dry before you put down a new sole...'cuz if you trap any moisture, you'll just trade a diesel odor for a mildew odor. Good luck with your project!
J
Jeff
Sole
I refinished my teak and holy sole last season with Polyuretane. Looks great but it is SLICK. Had to put rubber backed rugs at the bottom of the companion way. I would not use the Thompsons in an enclosed area, look for a wood sealer for furniture. Make sure the wood is dry ,if you trap moisture in the wood you will have problems. Follow Peggy's advice on the cleanup of the boat.. Good luck... Jeff
I refinished my teak and holy sole last season with Polyuretane. Looks great but it is SLICK. Had to put rubber backed rugs at the bottom of the companion way. I would not use the Thompsons in an enclosed area, look for a wood sealer for furniture. Make sure the wood is dry ,if you trap moisture in the wood you will have problems. Follow Peggy's advice on the cleanup of the boat.. Good luck... Jeff
Epoxy sealer
Jim: I think you will find that most owners that have R/R the sole have gone with epoxy for the underside. I would also seal the edges too. There are many excellent products for the bright side. Varnish, Poly finishes, Daly's finish etc. The best finish is one that can be touched up without much sanding. The veneers are very thin and cannot take much sanding.
Jim: I think you will find that most owners that have R/R the sole have gone with epoxy for the underside. I would also seal the edges too. There are many excellent products for the bright side. Varnish, Poly finishes, Daly's finish etc. The best finish is one that can be touched up without much sanding. The veneers are very thin and cannot take much sanding.
J
Jim Quibell
New Teak & Holly sole
I replaced the 29 year old sole last year in our Grampian 26. Used the old one as a template, and cut new from 3/4" teak & holly marine ply obtained from Noahs in Toronto. The local boat manufacturer here (Bruckman) recommended that I finish it with 7 coats of satin finish varnish on all surfaces. Turned out absolutely fabulous, and is not slippery at all. It was a lot of work with the light sandings between each coat, but in the long run it paid off - not just in self pride, but in boat value as well.
I replaced the 29 year old sole last year in our Grampian 26. Used the old one as a template, and cut new from 3/4" teak & holly marine ply obtained from Noahs in Toronto. The local boat manufacturer here (Bruckman) recommended that I finish it with 7 coats of satin finish varnish on all surfaces. Turned out absolutely fabulous, and is not slippery at all. It was a lot of work with the light sandings between each coat, but in the long run it paid off - not just in self pride, but in boat value as well.
L
LaDonna Bubak - Catalina Owners
Epoxy
I would seal the underside of the new sole with a generous coating of epoxy. It sees no sunlight so won't break down from UVs. I think that's the best way to do it. And I would use West Systems (or "real" epoxy) instead of polyester resin. Much more impervious to water infiltration. As far as the topside of the new sole, there are many different options. I know several people who've used varnish or polyurethane and are quite happy but I wouldn't. Obviously it's a personal choice but I wouldn't want a finish that would wear like that. Think about all the dirt & sand that will get ground into the varnish/PU and how often you're willing to reapply to keep it up. We're in the process of refinishing the interior and I intend on using a product called Briwax. It's beeswax, carnuba wax & some solvents (not to mention whatever color stain you want - I went with Mahogany) and is very easy to apply. When it starts to wear down, just a quick reapplication is all that's needed. No sanding or real prep work (other than cleaning the floor). My folks used Watco oil for a similar finish. The oils soak in & actually create a nice non-skid surface. LaDonna
I would seal the underside of the new sole with a generous coating of epoxy. It sees no sunlight so won't break down from UVs. I think that's the best way to do it. And I would use West Systems (or "real" epoxy) instead of polyester resin. Much more impervious to water infiltration. As far as the topside of the new sole, there are many different options. I know several people who've used varnish or polyurethane and are quite happy but I wouldn't. Obviously it's a personal choice but I wouldn't want a finish that would wear like that. Think about all the dirt & sand that will get ground into the varnish/PU and how often you're willing to reapply to keep it up. We're in the process of refinishing the interior and I intend on using a product called Briwax. It's beeswax, carnuba wax & some solvents (not to mention whatever color stain you want - I went with Mahogany) and is very easy to apply. When it starts to wear down, just a quick reapplication is all that's needed. No sanding or real prep work (other than cleaning the floor). My folks used Watco oil for a similar finish. The oils soak in & actually create a nice non-skid surface. LaDonna
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Tim
Sole Replacement
Would suggest looking at website call Rotdoctor.com. I used this product on recommendation replacing the sole in my main salon last year and if was an excellent base for the top (takes all finishes over it) and perfect for the bilge side (original sole had the same issues as yours). Finished the top with 4 coats of Spar Varnish........looks great
Would suggest looking at website call Rotdoctor.com. I used this product on recommendation replacing the sole in my main salon last year and if was an excellent base for the top (takes all finishes over it) and perfect for the bilge side (original sole had the same issues as yours). Finished the top with 4 coats of Spar Varnish........looks great
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