I have an H-27, 1978. Now that the boat is out of the water I am thinking about replacing the packing around the shaft as there was a slow leak during the summer while the prop was turning. I fixed the leak by tighting the threaded flange around the shaft. Should more be done? Is this a complicated job and can anyone suggest a course of action.
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S
Steve O.
depends...
If tightening the nut stopped the leak, then you're OK. If not, replace it. Remember that it should leak a little-5-10 drops per minute-to lube the gland.
If tightening the nut stopped the leak, then you're OK. If not, replace it. Remember that it should leak a little-5-10 drops per minute-to lube the gland.
S
Steve O.
depends...
If tightening the nut stopped the leak, then you're OK. If not, replace the packing. Remember that it should leak a about 5-10 drops per minute to lube the gland.
If tightening the nut stopped the leak, then you're OK. If not, replace the packing. Remember that it should leak a about 5-10 drops per minute to lube the gland.
J
john
I have the same boat with a yanmar sb8...
Mine was dripping quite a bit at the end of the summer. I could not tighten it while in the water. I was afraid to do damage while in. However, once I was out for the season, I heated the packing nut and she looseded up. In my 27 footer, it appears that I will have to undo the engine and the coupler, slide the engine backwards...to remove the packing. I think I will just tighten it up for next season and see how it goes.
Mine was dripping quite a bit at the end of the summer. I could not tighten it while in the water. I was afraid to do damage while in. However, once I was out for the season, I heated the packing nut and she looseded up. In my 27 footer, it appears that I will have to undo the engine and the coupler, slide the engine backwards...to remove the packing. I think I will just tighten it up for next season and see how it goes.
B
Bryon Anderson
Replace Packing
If tightening doesn't slow leak up to about one drop every 20 seconds while the shaft is turning, then it is time to replace the packing. With the boat out of the water it is not a complicated job, although it is an akward place to work (behind the engine). You simply must remove the old packing around the shaft and put new packing in. Most marine stores will sell you a tool for getting the old packing out. It is an awl with a bit of a twist near the end to reach in and snag the packing and pull it out. Usually, there are three layers. Once you have it all out (you do this with the boat out of water, of course), you need to take the old packing to the marine store and get new packing of the same size. They can help you match the old packing. You then cut the packing to a length such that it will just go around the shaft and the ends will nicely meet. Put three layers in, with the joints staggered. Then tighten your nut back down. You do not need to remove the engine, or anything drastic like that. Just back the tightening nut way off, get the old packing out, and put the new packing in. The hard part is laying on top of the engine while you do this; otherwise, it is fairly straightforward. Good luck.
If tightening doesn't slow leak up to about one drop every 20 seconds while the shaft is turning, then it is time to replace the packing. With the boat out of the water it is not a complicated job, although it is an akward place to work (behind the engine). You simply must remove the old packing around the shaft and put new packing in. Most marine stores will sell you a tool for getting the old packing out. It is an awl with a bit of a twist near the end to reach in and snag the packing and pull it out. Usually, there are three layers. Once you have it all out (you do this with the boat out of water, of course), you need to take the old packing to the marine store and get new packing of the same size. They can help you match the old packing. You then cut the packing to a length such that it will just go around the shaft and the ends will nicely meet. Put three layers in, with the joints staggered. Then tighten your nut back down. You do not need to remove the engine, or anything drastic like that. Just back the tightening nut way off, get the old packing out, and put the new packing in. The hard part is laying on top of the engine while you do this; otherwise, it is fairly straightforward. Good luck.
Just repacked my own
I just repacked the stuffing box on my 1981 27 today. It's not that hard and you don't need to pull the engine. Loosen the lock nut all the way and then unscrew the stuffing box completely. You may find that corrosion on the prop shaft makes it really hard to bring the stuffing box all the way back towards the engine. I scraped the corrosion off and use PTFE spray lubricant to get things moving. Once the stuffing box is free, get a 2" (or larger) drywall screw and screw it into the packing and then yank it out with pliers. It will take a couple of tries, but you will get all the packing out pretty quickly. I replaced my stuffing with GFO Fiber packing. It's supposed to be virtually dripless and last a really long time. I used 1/4" packing and you will probably need the same, but check with your marine store (take the old stuffing). Here's a tip, when you put the new packing in, get a wooden dowl that's slightly smaller in diameter than the packing itself. Cut a 6" piece of the dowel and use it with a hammer to get the stuffing inside the stuffing box. Don't try to get it all the way in with the dowel -- just tighten the stuffing box to get the packing well back into the stuffing box. Then, unscrew the stuffing box and repeat until you have all three pieces in place. Don't tighten more than a snug fit for now. Then, wait until spring to make final adjustments. With any luck, I won't have any drips next summer.
I just repacked the stuffing box on my 1981 27 today. It's not that hard and you don't need to pull the engine. Loosen the lock nut all the way and then unscrew the stuffing box completely. You may find that corrosion on the prop shaft makes it really hard to bring the stuffing box all the way back towards the engine. I scraped the corrosion off and use PTFE spray lubricant to get things moving. Once the stuffing box is free, get a 2" (or larger) drywall screw and screw it into the packing and then yank it out with pliers. It will take a couple of tries, but you will get all the packing out pretty quickly. I replaced my stuffing with GFO Fiber packing. It's supposed to be virtually dripless and last a really long time. I used 1/4" packing and you will probably need the same, but check with your marine store (take the old stuffing). Here's a tip, when you put the new packing in, get a wooden dowl that's slightly smaller in diameter than the packing itself. Cut a 6" piece of the dowel and use it with a hammer to get the stuffing inside the stuffing box. Don't try to get it all the way in with the dowel -- just tighten the stuffing box to get the packing well back into the stuffing box. Then, unscrew the stuffing box and repeat until you have all three pieces in place. Don't tighten more than a snug fit for now. Then, wait until spring to make final adjustments. With any luck, I won't have any drips next summer.
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