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John Dawson
V-25 keel cable
On checking the archives, I was surprised to find relatively few informative pieces; one of the most about keels contained the word 'memeorable', so a search will turn it up. Its more about coating metal keels. I have a recent post about removing the keel titled 'Under your bonnet', (don't ask why.) Basically, its not very possible in the water or on the trailer, which means the boat has to be on the hard on stands...proper stands if the keel is going to be moved about. If you are going to do major things to the keel, its probably worth the cost to have a yard put it on stands for you. Consider replacing the winch if crusty, from Havencraft or Grainger or other sources mentioned in the archives. Some people increase the cable size; you can swag it yourself at a West Marine or have it done. Special attention to the pivot bolt and seals. The thing is heavy, don't plan to hold it manually in any way. More specific info on your situation or procedures would help.
On checking the archives, I was surprised to find relatively few informative pieces; one of the most about keels contained the word 'memeorable', so a search will turn it up. Its more about coating metal keels. I have a recent post about removing the keel titled 'Under your bonnet', (don't ask why.) Basically, its not very possible in the water or on the trailer, which means the boat has to be on the hard on stands...proper stands if the keel is going to be moved about. If you are going to do major things to the keel, its probably worth the cost to have a yard put it on stands for you. Consider replacing the winch if crusty, from Havencraft or Grainger or other sources mentioned in the archives. Some people increase the cable size; you can swag it yourself at a West Marine or have it done. Special attention to the pivot bolt and seals. The thing is heavy, don't plan to hold it manually in any way. More specific info on your situation or procedures would help.
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Doug Rodrigues
Easy to do on the Mac 25.
I have the '83 Mac 25. I just crawled under my trailer to remove the cable. That's the easy part. Removing the bolt attaching the cable to the swing keel is the hard part. I ended-up having to drill that bolt out of the keel! The bolt just wouldn't hammer-out! When I reattached the cable to the keel, I installed the bolt so as to have the loop of cable on the self-locking nut side of the bolt. *Note: If your keel doesn't hang low enough on your particular trailer, just float the boat a couple of feet rearward on the trailer. That should give you the ability to further lower the swing keel. That's the way I did it on my old V-2-22 a couple of years ago. Remove the cable and measure it for length prior to fabricating a new cable. Easier doing it that way rather than cutting off excess in the boat. Be sure to have at least three wraps of cable around the winch with the keel lowered. While you're under there, you may as well touch-up that worn spot where the cable rubs against the fiberglass. You'll see what I mean. The pivot bolt is also easy to replace. Write me at mtnpilotdiver@msn.com for specific instructions, if you want to do that.
I have the '83 Mac 25. I just crawled under my trailer to remove the cable. That's the easy part. Removing the bolt attaching the cable to the swing keel is the hard part. I ended-up having to drill that bolt out of the keel! The bolt just wouldn't hammer-out! When I reattached the cable to the keel, I installed the bolt so as to have the loop of cable on the self-locking nut side of the bolt. *Note: If your keel doesn't hang low enough on your particular trailer, just float the boat a couple of feet rearward on the trailer. That should give you the ability to further lower the swing keel. That's the way I did it on my old V-2-22 a couple of years ago. Remove the cable and measure it for length prior to fabricating a new cable. Easier doing it that way rather than cutting off excess in the boat. Be sure to have at least three wraps of cable around the winch with the keel lowered. While you're under there, you may as well touch-up that worn spot where the cable rubs against the fiberglass. You'll see what I mean. The pivot bolt is also easy to replace. Write me at mtnpilotdiver@msn.com for specific instructions, if you want to do that.
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Tom Eckes
Be prepared for the worst
When I decided to change my rusted cable I was unable to even rotate the bolt. I soaked the bolt with WD-40 spay every day for a week and was unable to do anything except remove the nuts from the bolt. Unfortunately that was not the end of the bolt that the cable was connected to. I pounded on the bolt until I realized I couldn't do it with the tools I had. Fortunately I have a friend who is a mechanic and has every tool we needed. The most impotent tool was the torch that was needed to heat the bolt but we were only able to pound the bolt out an inch or so because the weight of the keel over the years bent the bolt enough to prevent it sliding through the hole. That last step was to cut the bolt head off and "wham" we pounded it through after heating it well. Good luck.
When I decided to change my rusted cable I was unable to even rotate the bolt. I soaked the bolt with WD-40 spay every day for a week and was unable to do anything except remove the nuts from the bolt. Unfortunately that was not the end of the bolt that the cable was connected to. I pounded on the bolt until I realized I couldn't do it with the tools I had. Fortunately I have a friend who is a mechanic and has every tool we needed. The most impotent tool was the torch that was needed to heat the bolt but we were only able to pound the bolt out an inch or so because the weight of the keel over the years bent the bolt enough to prevent it sliding through the hole. That last step was to cut the bolt head off and "wham" we pounded it through after heating it well. Good luck.
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Mike
More Cable
You might want to add more cable legnth than a few turns around the winch drum. If the cable frays or fails for any reason, you will have extra cable and one end fastened already. It makes emergency repairs easier. You might not be able to fix a break in the middle of the cable, but most failures occur at the ends of the cable near the fasteners. Happy Sails Mike
You might want to add more cable legnth than a few turns around the winch drum. If the cable frays or fails for any reason, you will have extra cable and one end fastened already. It makes emergency repairs easier. You might not be able to fix a break in the middle of the cable, but most failures occur at the ends of the cable near the fasteners. Happy Sails Mike
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Mike Kavalar
On a V222
I've done it on my V222 3 or 4 times over the last 20 years. I read the horror stories, but on mine there is a very easily removed pin and cotter attaching the cable to the keel. I found the easiest way to replace it was in the water. One time the cable broke in a shallow harbor and buried in the muck. I had to run a line under the keel and use the winches to pull it up. After getting a new cable, I simply sailed over to my favorite swimming spot, hooked the new cable up to the crank and jumped over the side to attach it. It's easier with scuba but I've done it with nothing more than a dive mask, holding my breath. Three or four breathes to remove the old one and the same to place the new one. If the cable is still attached and the water where you sail is clean and warm enough, you may want to take a look so you can see what your up against. As other people have mentioned, make sure the cable is long enough to allow full extention of the keel. The first time I did it, I added a couple of feet to my draft and figured that would be enough. Not so and I had to redo the work a week later.
I've done it on my V222 3 or 4 times over the last 20 years. I read the horror stories, but on mine there is a very easily removed pin and cotter attaching the cable to the keel. I found the easiest way to replace it was in the water. One time the cable broke in a shallow harbor and buried in the muck. I had to run a line under the keel and use the winches to pull it up. After getting a new cable, I simply sailed over to my favorite swimming spot, hooked the new cable up to the crank and jumped over the side to attach it. It's easier with scuba but I've done it with nothing more than a dive mask, holding my breath. Three or four breathes to remove the old one and the same to place the new one. If the cable is still attached and the water where you sail is clean and warm enough, you may want to take a look so you can see what your up against. As other people have mentioned, make sure the cable is long enough to allow full extention of the keel. The first time I did it, I added a couple of feet to my draft and figured that would be enough. Not so and I had to redo the work a week later.
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