While cleaning my prop my diver noted play in the prop shaft and suggested that I replace the cutless bearing. Has anyone replaced the cutless bearing in an old Morgan 30 (hull #4). Does the shaft have to come out?
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cutlass bearing
I don't know if yours is the same as the one on our M28OI, Mike. In case it is though, I'll explain: The bearing on the 'Merry Bee' is held in place with 2 hex-head screws that are tightened against indentations drilled into the outer shell of the bearing & wire-tied to keep them from backing out. To remove the bearing, all we need to do is remove the screws and the prop and slip the bearing out. I've heard of some people having to drive the bearing out either from the inside or by using a puller & slide hammer. Maybe we're fortunate in that ours is a light slip fit, so no special effort is required. Obviously, if the propshaft needs to be pulled, then the boat must be pulled out as well. Again, in our case, if the propshaft needs to come out, then the rudder must be pulled as well. IMHO, A small amount of play (1/16" or so) shouldn't be cause for alarm with such a slow-turning prop. Our original shaft was bronze, and it had worn down quite a bit over the years; even a new bearing didn't help! We had a new SS shaft made last year. The play was reduced so much that I decided to leave the old bearing in for another year or so! Hope this helps! Jim Ocean Gate, NJ
I don't know if yours is the same as the one on our M28OI, Mike. In case it is though, I'll explain: The bearing on the 'Merry Bee' is held in place with 2 hex-head screws that are tightened against indentations drilled into the outer shell of the bearing & wire-tied to keep them from backing out. To remove the bearing, all we need to do is remove the screws and the prop and slip the bearing out. I've heard of some people having to drive the bearing out either from the inside or by using a puller & slide hammer. Maybe we're fortunate in that ours is a light slip fit, so no special effort is required. Obviously, if the propshaft needs to be pulled, then the boat must be pulled out as well. Again, in our case, if the propshaft needs to come out, then the rudder must be pulled as well. IMHO, A small amount of play (1/16" or so) shouldn't be cause for alarm with such a slow-turning prop. Our original shaft was bronze, and it had worn down quite a bit over the years; even a new bearing didn't help! We had a new SS shaft made last year. The play was reduced so much that I decided to leave the old bearing in for another year or so! Hope this helps! Jim Ocean Gate, NJ
Simillar to OI28
Yes, like Jim said you have to haul the boat out to replace the cutless bearing. There are two set screws hidden under filler that hold it in place inside the stern tube. The shaft has to come out to replace it. You don't have to haul the boat out to replace the shaft if it will come out of the coupler. It takes a couple of people to do it - one in the boat and one in the water to pull the shaft out. Simply slip a piece of shafting or a wood dowel the same size as the shaft in the shaft log when the old shaft is pulled out. You have to drop the rudder out too but this can be done in the water too. I just pulled my shaft out in the water but my engine is out right now and the shaft came out to the inside. I used a piece of dummy shafting a foot long. I replaced the gosh-knows-how-old rubber shaft log hose today as well. Dave Doolin 1969 M30 Angel's Wing
Yes, like Jim said you have to haul the boat out to replace the cutless bearing. There are two set screws hidden under filler that hold it in place inside the stern tube. The shaft has to come out to replace it. You don't have to haul the boat out to replace the shaft if it will come out of the coupler. It takes a couple of people to do it - one in the boat and one in the water to pull the shaft out. Simply slip a piece of shafting or a wood dowel the same size as the shaft in the shaft log when the old shaft is pulled out. You have to drop the rudder out too but this can be done in the water too. I just pulled my shaft out in the water but my engine is out right now and the shaft came out to the inside. I used a piece of dummy shafting a foot long. I replaced the gosh-knows-how-old rubber shaft log hose today as well. Dave Doolin 1969 M30 Angel's Wing
cutlass bearing
A friend and I had a 1970 Morgan 30- great boat. Had a Palmer engine. The shaft is very short on the Morgan design- no 4 or 5 foot shaft whipping around like on a Catalina 30. Play in the cutlass bearing is absolutely normal- this is not a connecting rod/ crankshaft standard to meet. You could back out the shaft a few inches and look at the shaft for serious wear with the boat in the water. If the shaft looks good and serviceable and you're not experiencing worrisome vibration under power, button it back up, enjoy the boat and review the bearing issue when yu pull for the next bottom paint. Even if there is wear, if you can live with the vibration, nothings going to tear up or tear loose suddenly. Real vibration? Then realign the engine first and see if vibration goes away. That's the usual culprit.
A friend and I had a 1970 Morgan 30- great boat. Had a Palmer engine. The shaft is very short on the Morgan design- no 4 or 5 foot shaft whipping around like on a Catalina 30. Play in the cutlass bearing is absolutely normal- this is not a connecting rod/ crankshaft standard to meet. You could back out the shaft a few inches and look at the shaft for serious wear with the boat in the water. If the shaft looks good and serviceable and you're not experiencing worrisome vibration under power, button it back up, enjoy the boat and review the bearing issue when yu pull for the next bottom paint. Even if there is wear, if you can live with the vibration, nothings going to tear up or tear loose suddenly. Real vibration? Then realign the engine first and see if vibration goes away. That's the usual culprit.
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