Replacing teak

Nov 18, 2012
3
Hi, been lurking on the site for a long time and picked up lots of useful hints and information. Now it's time for a question!!!!

I have a 1989 Catalina 30 and am looking at replacing the teak on deck with something else: probably stainless steel for the handrails and perhaps plastic lumber for the trim areas.
Has anyone done something similar? Any suggestions or recommendations?
Thanks in advance
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
If you'll check my album "work on Cygne" you can see that I replaced all my 45 year old rotted teak with 100% PVC AZEK deck lumber.
I did this in 2010 and still looks great. then it was around $3/ft. Easy to work and no varnishing!
I read up on the different materials available and the lawsuits against the makers of "composite" lumber scared me away from those. Seems the wood they use in the composite is pulp/trash wood.
 
Oct 26, 2005
2,057
- - Satellite Beach, FL.
Capt. Ron did some very nice work on his Catalina using another of these products. Might look him up.
 
Nov 18, 2012
3
Thanks for the suggestions. I wasn't considering composites but pure plastic lumber, but will check out the product you recommend.
Cheers
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
Simon,

As Merlin said, there are different grades/materials for faux wood. Decking boards & fascia boards worked for me. My deck boards are 6" W x 1" T. The fascia was 16" W x 5/8" T.
I believe I ordered these 12 ft. long.

DON'T BUY ANYTHING MADE FROM RECYCLED PLASTIC BUT LOOK FOR UV PROPERTIES.

I used what was called Sensibuilt now named, but easy to find on the web. I would bet there may be even better products. Some will send you samples. I would check their specs & MSDS sheets. This will tell you alot about the products for comparison.

On the companionway slats, I put stiffeners on the back as this stuff can warp over time. No warping since installed.

If you go this route, be careful of using chemicals mainly MEK on your edge cuts. This will cause harm to the finish. Nothing stronger than mineral spirits.

Here's some pics for my 1980 C30 to give you an idea of what to look forward to. It wasn't hard to cut. I did mine mostly on my small table saw, router & saber saw. Practice a couple cuts before cutting the "real" pieces.

You can also find a wood shop to match-cut the pieces for you at hopefully a fair price.

Life's too short to constantly redo your own wood.

CR
 

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Nov 18, 2012
3
Thanks captnron and Merlin: great leads on products. Nice work on the replacements, it good to see that the idea works!! Cheers
 

JeffP

.
Nov 21, 2009
10
Catalina 30 Lanier
Researching....

I am replacing a lot of my teak, for example the handrails with SS; so this topic is very interesting to me.

I looked up Sensibuilt and found that they make it in standard decking sizes, but I did not see any 'structural' or sheet sizes that would account for your traveler risers or companionway drop boards respectively. Where did you get the larger dimensions and sheet stock?

Also Sensibuilt is a laminate, where an outer coating surrounds a more standard PVC core. Once it is milled to shape, none of the cut surfaces will have the mildew resistance nor will have the UV resistance we as sailors need.

Can someone who has more experience than I in these areas, comment and possibly point to other product lines that might be better suited? I would really like to replace my drop boards this fall.
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
I am replacing a lot of my teak, for example the handrails with SS; so this topic is very interesting to me.

I looked up Sensibuilt and found that they make it in standard decking sizes, but I did not see any 'structural' or sheet sizes that would account for your traveler risers or companionway drop boards respectively. Where did you get the larger dimensions and sheet stock?

Also Sensibuilt is a laminate, where an outer coating surrounds a more standard PVC core. Once it is milled to shape, none of the cut surfaces will have the mildew resistance nor will have the UV resistance we as sailors need.

Can someone who has more experience than I in these areas, comment and possibly point to other product lines that might be better suited? I would really like to replace my drop boards this fall.
Jeff,

When I got my Sensibuilt, they had a brush-on finish that didn't match the color. I used MEK on the cut edges & it looked perfect. The downside was that, after 4 months in the sun, it chalked up. I do know now, that the have a brush-on finish. I would ask them about this.

For my traveler, I sandwiched/epoxied 3 deck boards 3 high & then cut them to suit. If you want, I may have the drawings I made, I'll probably have to scan the sketches. Let me know.

The other board I mentioned is called Fascia Board, mention this (16"W x 5/8" THK). I'm waiting a few more weeks but will order this. Here is the email I received awhile back on the coating, you look into this pal:
==============================================
Hi CR,

Here’s something to consider. Bob used to work for Sensibuilt, which we bought the rights too and later changed the name to Outdoor Flooring. He wrote:

Interesting application for the Sensibuilt deck. His best option would be to thoroughly sand the boards to remove any loose coating and other chalked areas. Once prepared he should coat the boards with one of our IPT Versacryl™ Restoration coatings. We have the 5 standard colors that he can view on our website,www.iptcorporation.com. I would suggest Prairie since its’ our highest L value color and has the highest TSR. Our coatings will yield a low gloss surface so I hope that’s ok. If he wants to proceed I can sell him what he needs and can instruct him on the application details. I have never applied Versacryl™ over Sensibuilt but it should work. We could not be responsible for the outcome since it’s a one off application.

Bob Harris, http://www.iptcorporation.com/

======================================
From Rick Lappin:

I’m still waiting on comment from our chief chemist, but I’ve done some testing with a transparent Behr exterior stain that have shown pretty good results against UV as well (Behr Transparent Waterproofing Wood Finish).

Thanks,
rick
=====================

Hope this is of some help.

CR
 

JeffP

.
Nov 21, 2009
10
Catalina 30 Lanier
My Motivation

My motivation to switch from teak, which is more attractive, is to get something that is no maintenance.
Having to coat the cut surfaces with a protectant seems counter intuitive to that end. The coatings at that link really do not address the issue of whether they will need to be re-applied, especially on places like the ends of drop boards that will see friction as they are placed and removed.
I have been looking at Lumberock and their sister company Bearboad. Both are Mineral-Added HDPE Plastic Lumber. They have no organic content so are as Mildew and Mold proof as I can find. They are uniform solid materials so the cut faces are the same as the factory faces. They claim to have the lowest reaction to UV available. They seem to have a specific gravity (weight per volume) about .62; about the same as Teak which runs .55 to .66 dependent upon moisture content.
The colors for the two product lines seem relatively the same for what I am looking for. The differences seem to be in the sizes available and what they are marketed for. Lumberock seems to be targeted at the homeowner and Bearboard at contractors.
Anyone have any comments or thoughts on the matter?
 
Jan 6, 2010
1,520
My motivation to switch from teak, which is more attractive, is to get something that is no maintenance.
Having to coat the cut surfaces with a protectant seems counter intuitive to that end. The coatings at that link really do not address the issue of whether they will need to be re-applied, especially on places like the ends of drop boards that will see friction as they are placed and removed.
I have been looking at Lumberock and their sister company Bearboad. Both are Mineral-Added HDPE Plastic Lumber. They have no organic content so are as Mildew and Mold proof as I can find. They are uniform solid materials so the cut faces are the same as the factory faces. They claim to have the lowest reaction to UV available. They seem to have a specific gravity (weight per volume) about .62; about the same as Teak which runs .55 to .66 dependent upon moisture content.
The colors for the two product lines seem relatively the same for what I am looking for. The differences seem to be in the sizes available and what they are marketed for. Lumberock seems to be targeted at the homeowner and Bearboard at contractors.
Anyone have any comments or thoughts on the matter?
Jeff,

You're my kind of guy man, you do due your diligence before just barreling ahead, I like that approach.

The coating I was speaking of was for the treatment of cut edges to keep the same color. It doesn't matter what the material is, but rather what does a cut edge present. I checked the Lumberock site, but didn't get to the bare knuckles & nothing about what the cut edge would provide or. if & what coating they may have for this.

Don't get me wrong, recyclable plastics have their use in this world. It's all about color, UV resistance & color hold.

That being said, the pics I looked at, looked exactly like the Sensibuilt. Therefore, I have to assume the process/materials are alike & cut edges I spoke about will be similar.

Give their "Technical Support" people a call & ask about cut edges & what to expect.
Please let me know what they say pal. Remember the topic is what to do to finish the cut edges.

CR