The other day I had a docking line wrap around the propeller (while still attached to starboard) on my Hunter 31. The resulting tension bent the shaft and the strut, sent the propeller up and to starboard, denting (but not breaching) the hull. The back of the engine shifted slightly to port to compensate. Terrible. So, now I have to fix all this mess.
Local boatyards quoted $5,000-$7,000 to fix this (including marking up the price of the shaft and strut 3-4x), so I thought I would give it a try myself. I have already ordered a new shaft/strut from this website. I would like to ask for some hints on how to do it while minimizing time at the boatyard.
1. Should I uncouple the shaft from the gearbox while still in the water? I have a PSS so I think there is little danger in getting a water leak. This will allow me to straigten the engine and test the gearbox for potential damage.
2. When installing the new shaft, apparently it is better to slide it under the engine (seems like lots of work) so that the coupling stays put as it comes from the factory. The easier way is to take off the coupling. Is it really that hard to align the coupling perpendicular to the shaft in the boat?
3. What is the preferred way of positioning the strut in alignment? Do I just put washers/shims until I get it into the right position? Then is it just bolted or should it be glassed over as well?
4. I understand that the final alignment of the engine should be done in the water. Should I at least try to run the engine for a couple of minutes while in the yard to check the strut positioning?
Any other hints would be greatly appreciated. In particular, any parts that I may need, bearings, etc.
Thank you,
Pizzazz
Local boatyards quoted $5,000-$7,000 to fix this (including marking up the price of the shaft and strut 3-4x), so I thought I would give it a try myself. I have already ordered a new shaft/strut from this website. I would like to ask for some hints on how to do it while minimizing time at the boatyard.
1. Should I uncouple the shaft from the gearbox while still in the water? I have a PSS so I think there is little danger in getting a water leak. This will allow me to straigten the engine and test the gearbox for potential damage.
2. When installing the new shaft, apparently it is better to slide it under the engine (seems like lots of work) so that the coupling stays put as it comes from the factory. The easier way is to take off the coupling. Is it really that hard to align the coupling perpendicular to the shaft in the boat?
3. What is the preferred way of positioning the strut in alignment? Do I just put washers/shims until I get it into the right position? Then is it just bolted or should it be glassed over as well?
4. I understand that the final alignment of the engine should be done in the water. Should I at least try to run the engine for a couple of minutes while in the yard to check the strut positioning?
Any other hints would be greatly appreciated. In particular, any parts that I may need, bearings, etc.
Thank you,
Pizzazz