Replacing seacocks

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Eric

OK, her it goes, an old but tried and true subject. I would like to replace the gate valves on my Hunter. I have the sizes etc. but the issue is whether or not to use "Sea Cocks" or ball valves which are considerably cheaper. West Marine catalog does not recommend using ball valves on thru hulls because, if I interpreted this right, they have chrome covered brass balls whereas seacocks use stainless. They indicate that ball valves are goood for fuel lines , fresh water lines etc. Since my boat is in freshwater I am trying to see the downside to using the ball valves as replacements. Obviously better than the current gate valves, I think. Any sages out there with a wealth of knowledge? Thanks
 
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Ed Schenck

No wealth...

knowledge or otherwise. But I did as you suggest. I simply installed the ball-valve on the elbow coming off the thru-hull. There is no doubt that it is on or off and off is really off. In fresh water I am not at all concerned about corrosion. But I will eventually install real seacocks. The only danger that I see is leverage if someone were to step in the bilge because it is at a right angle to the thru-hull. Incidentally, I checked for this on various boats at the boat show. The valves on the Island Packet looked exactly like mine. The difference is they were screwed onto the thru-hull, no elbow. I should have gotten a part number.
 
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Matt Reed

Interesting idea Ed

Installing an in-line seacock to the existing gate valves on my galley and bathroom sinks is an Interesting idea I've been thinking about. I figure this is a short-term, cheap fix. Any ideas on the down side you can see if I avoid that elbow problem Ed?
 
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Ed Schenck

Two problems:

As I see it the main problem is threads. THe thru-hull is cut straight, no taper. But the ball-valves may not tighten correctly because they use tapered threads. Yet that is exactly what I saw on the IP 380. Unless they make something that bottoms out correctly on the thru-hull. THe other issue is the location of the thru-hull. It might not be practical if the ball-valve sticks straight up where you don't have room for the hose connection. Or there might be a problem with clearance for installing the valve. Best answer is still a seacock.
 
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red coles

Same idea

I have a 78 h27 and repleced all gate valves with home depot ball valves. Its been two years now,no problems yet. I always close all thru hulls when leaving boat. I do this for safety and also to excercise them. I simply screwed them straight on to the thru hulls with lots of dope. Good luck red
 
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Dan Arsenault

Ball valves

Ball valves are ok use as long as you inspect them regularly. Did the chrome bumpers on your old cars rust or was it the underlying material rusting? With brass you need to be aware of dezincification but inspection will head off problems. The thing you need to do is make sure the valves you use have freeze holes in the side of the body or they will fail the very first winter you store the boat. This is a small 1/8 " or so hole in the side of the body. Definitely better than gate valves! Dan Arsenault Serendipity Too
 
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Ed Schenck

Please be careful..

The last posting mentioned BRASS valves from Home Depot. This is NOT what you want. The valves should be BRONZE! This is not home plumbing here. As I said earlier, "I have no wealth.." Please check the archives on this subject, I would not want someones boat to sink.
 
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Tim

SEACOCKS

I agree 150% with the recent posting on not using brass fittings on your boat. Good, BRONZE seacocks are one of the best insurance policies you can buy for your "vacation home." Soon after I purchased my 1985 H31 (in 1986) I found the galley gate valve frozen....luckily in the closed position. My next haulout I replaced every gate valve with proper seacocks (with teflon liners). I've never had a problem in the 13 years of ownership. In my opinion, Hunter was very negligent in installing gate valves in the mid-80's, and hope they no longer do so on any of their plumbing fittings. Tim L. "TIDE"
 
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