Replacing refrigerator thru hull

[bkekst]

I've run into problems with my refrigerator thru hull intake. The seacock is broken in the closed position. This means my refrigerator can't run until I hull the boat out of the water and replace the thru hull. As a live-aboard this is a fairly urgent issue.

I have a great systems mechanic who can easily replace the thru hull. Our plan for saving time (and money) is to do a "night hang". That's where they pull my boat out at the end of the day and let it sit on the sling overnight while we do the work, then drop it back in the water first thing in the morning.

The big question is how to ensure we have the correct part on hand to do the replacement. Looking at the shopping section of this site the best guess I can make is that I need this part: http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/part.php?m=450&c=10&p=53189. The only information obtained from my Hunter manual is "Refrig. pickup 3/4" (19 MM) * (FWD Gen. Comp)".

Has anyone with a similar Hunter model done this thru hull replacement (2000 Hunter 450 Center Cockpit)? Is there anything special about the Hunter thru hull, like an extra flange or special shape or anything?

Thanks in advance!
Brad

 

[Ken13559]

If this is your valve or similar, it seem you could put a taper plug from under water and unscrew the valve from the thro-hull to change out. Just guessing.

 

[bkekst]

Interesting - so you're saying it's not the thru hull at all, but rather the seacock that screws into the thru hull? I'll definitely investigate this, thank you!

Yes that is a picture of my valve.

 

[Ken13559]

Yes, couple of years back, Hunter had a recall on all thru-hull valves and they ship about 7 pieces to me. The yard just unscrew valves from within the boat to replace. I suppose it'll be same for yours.

 

[seadaddler]

Yes

I would use a plug from under in water and replace the value.
Nick

 

[larrydynamic]

Replacing refrigerator thruhull

I have a 2000 Hunter Passage 450. The thru hull is a standard 3/4 fitting available from WM. If you are brave and trust your diver, use a toilet plunger to block the hole from under the boat while you and the diver change the thru hull. Hand him his parts and you get ready with the 5200 and the nut with backing plate. Make sure your bilge pump works first.

 

[bkekst]

Thanks all for your responses! Thanks larryd for confirming these are standard fittings.

I was convinced to go forward with the haul-out since there is so much corresion between the valve and thru-hull that it might require a lot of effort to remove - and therefore could turn the thru-hull and break the seal. May as well have it out of the water to get it all done right. I'm scheduled to fix it today, hopefully this will be as quick and simple as it sounds!

Brad

 

[bkekst]

I know you are all on pins and needles so I'll let you know the whole job took a few hours. We did NOT have to replace the thru-hull. One thing unique about this thru-hull is the screen covering, the only other thru-hulls with screening are the engine intakes. The core issue was an oyster shell that somehow climbed up into that screening. We spend half an hour trying to break the shell up into little pieces to get it out of there. So a diver could have taken care of the whole thing. Yet I don't mind getting the boat out of the water, gave me the chance to clean the bottom, replace the anodes, and take pictures of some other impending issues. Gotta get the bottom repainted soon.

 

[bkekst]

Hello BT,

Sorry for the delay, I've been traveling a bit. Hopefully your question isn't OBE. I finally assembled all the old pictures I could find of the staysail when it was a hank-on staysail. Plus shots of the new furler as it was installed. If you want any more shots of the current arrangement (with the furler) let me know.

I'm not sure how to post a bunch of pictures here with captions so I added them to my own site here: https://abouttime.shutterfly.com/thedifficultstufff/146

While the old (hank-on) arrangement allowed for removal of the inner forestay for easier tacking of the Jib, I can say that with the furler in place I have no problem tacking the Jib. One just needs to let the sheet out a bit extra and wait until the boat comes around a bit further then usual. The wind from the top will pull the Jib between the inner and outer forestays without need to send anyone up to the bow.

Brad