Replacing Motor Mount on O'day 222

[Joe11688]

Joe, what do you think is the difference between the supposed 2-stroke vs. 4-stroke? I mean, a 2-stroke motor should be a few pounds lighter than equivalent HP 4-stroke. So that would be a consideration. But there should be no difference as far as thrust or whatever goes, because they are each the same HP spinning a prop... The manufacturers talk about the higher torque of a 4-stroke. For example, Panther specs an aluminum mount with max motor weight of 132lbs, but max hp of 15 for 4-stroke, 20 for 2-stroke. Yet, I'm looking up prop charts for Nissan/Tohatsu, and they are speccing the exact same props on the 2-stroke 5hp as the 4-stroke 5hp.

It just seems like hooey to me...

But what do I know, I'm not a mechanical engineer or an outboard mechanic...

Brian

Like I said, if the bracket is heavy duty and rated for the weight of the engine, it should be OK but don't take my word for it.

My friend Wayne has a Tohatsu four stroke 9.9 with charging system and electric start on a heavy duty Garelick engine bracket that isn't rated for a four stroke. His only main concern was to beef up the inside transom of his Seaward 22 to take the weight and torque of his engine, which he did.

Several years ago, one of the guys on this forum had a four stroke engine on a cheap bracket like ours, on his O'Day 25. Someone over accelerated the engine while it was in forward gear and the engine thrust stoved in the transom of his boat. He had his family on board and luckily the large gaping hole was above the waterline. Here's the kicker, (no pun intended) the el cheapo engine bracket sustained no damage whatsoever. Who'da thunk it?

 

[Brian S]

Motor mount info

I have a Garelick Easy In aluminum mount with black plastic motor pad on my 192. A friend of mine thought I could replace bushings in the pivots. I called Garelick about it, and they informed me that they don't make bushings, and that it wouldn't be possible to remove the bolts anyway - even with the mount fully upright, there is still considerable tension on the springs. If your mount is whupped, they have an exchange program where you send in the old one, and they sell you a new one at a discount.

My mount seems fine - I had intended to replace bushings (if possible) purely as a preventative measure. Since replacing it requires the inspection port, etc, I'm not going to bother until the mount seems whupped.

Brian

 

[jerseygirl]

Well---- I FINALLY replaced the motor mount! I did it the old fashioned way and avoided installing a port hole at the stern. I removed the wood paneling of the port lazarette and "army-crawled" back there, turned onto my back and my body was small enough to get back there (somewhat comfortably) and my arm was just long enough to reach all of the through bolts to the motor mount. It was a major pain in the butt; however the task was completed and the new engine mount is installed and the engine is on.

While I was in the "tombs" of my boat, it gave me a chance to check the hose for the cockpit drain, which has to be replaced. I was lucky enough to get back there and notice that the hose and the through hull were completely shot! I will be replacing that this weekend. Thank goodness I saw that or that could have been a BIG problem! I would recommend anyone that hasn't checked that drain in a few years to inspect it, because if that hose fails you'll be in a heap of trouble.

Hope everyone is doing well and on their way to launching their boats soon!

 

[Brian S]

While replacing my swim ladder, I reached way down in the port lazarette from inside the cockpit, and I hit a point where I thought I was going to be stuck... But I got out... If I had to go all the way in from the cabin, I think I'd try to send one of the kids in. Unfortunately, the 13yo is too uncoordinated to deal with tightening nuts, and the 10yo is a bit too flighty and lacks the arm strength to get them cinched good and tight...

Brian