Replacing Motor Mount on O'day 222

Brian S · Apr 1, 2013

I think you will find you need to install an inspection port into the aft end of the cockpit. You will need to be careful, as the flange for the port must stay flat, and the transom is curved. This is especially true of screw in type, somewhat less so for press in ports.

I think Trinkka may have some photos in his profile picture albums.

Even so, it will probably be an annoying project to reach in there with a wrench. I'd tie a string to the wrench, because I KNOW I'd drop it 10 times before the first bolt was loose!

Brian

Brian S · Apr 1, 2013

Jerseygirl, I never would have thought of it, but I just last weekend removed the swim ladder from my boat. It's a much easier job, because you have access to all nuts through the port lazarette. But even so, I thought I was going to lose my wrench when I dropped it and it slid down under the floor of the cockpit. DOH! I was able to reach it after I unloaded everything from the lazarette. Where the heck did I get so many fenders?

Brian

Brian S · Apr 2, 2013

Jerseygirl, I feel your pain with Sandy. Sorry you guys had to deal with that! You've got quite a list there. I got my 192 at the very tail end of the season last year, and she was in great shape. The cushion upholstery looks brand new, so I don't have to worry about that. I've been buffing all the glass, waxing, going to replace the hatch sliders, hoping to just sand the toe rails and hit them with Cetol. The previous owners never used the nav lights, but I'll be out after dark from time to time, so I'm replacing nav lights with LED, probably use a small tractor battery for ease of bringing home for charging. Per Joe (Trinkka)'s recommendation, I'm going to get rid of the ugly interior light fixture, and just use LED stick-on lights with velcro for the interior. All my running rigging will be upgraded this year as well. I can't stand worn, stretchy polyester halyards, so I've gone overboard with Vectran cored halyards

I've given up on stereos in boats. Last year, I got a Jawbone Jambox for the 15 foot boat. It's a small, rechargeable speaker that connects to my iPhone via Bluetooth. For an evening cruise, it's just about right, or for staying down below on the 192. The little Jambox does struggle filling the cockpit of the 192 during a spirited sail, so I'm considering getting an Eton Rugged Rukus. I don't know if it's louder, but it is splash resistant, and it has a solar panel on it for recharging. How cool is that?

I was wondering, why do you feel the need to replace your motor mount? I have a Garelick Easy In adjustable mount on mine, and it seems to work well. I'm not happy that it has the black plastic pad that the motor mount to - I've heard these can wear out and break. But a wood one would need maintenance... My pad seems in good shape for now, so I don't think I'll build a plywood one just yet. My friend says you get get new bushings for the adjustable parts, but I didn't see any listed on Garelick's website. I sent them an email, but no surprise, I haven't heard back from them. I guess I need to call them. I hate websites that never answer their web forms or email...

Brian

anchorclanker · Apr 2, 2013

I second (third?) the advice to look at Trinkka's mods. He put a port in the back of the cockpit giving him access to reach virtually everything. Short of some wee little people or some kind of remote arm, I dont think there is a chance in hell of reaching the motor mount bolts without that kind of access.

http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/album.php?albumid=372

Joe11688 · Apr 2, 2013

I was able to replace my motor bracket two years ago on my 222. Just buy an 8'' Beckson Deck plate and install it in the center of your inside transom. You'll be able to reach those nuts and backup plates very easy through that deck plate. I even was able to remove my gudgions and re caulk them by myself one day. Check out my picture album for more info on that.
http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/album.php?albumid=372
Whatever you do, don't try to crawl in through that lazarett hatch. You'll get stuck in there.

anchorclanker · Apr 2, 2013

I think thats why they call it a lazarett, its a tomb.

Mich222 · Apr 2, 2013

Attached picture is not my Oday 222, but one I looked at prior to purchasing mine. I am hesitant to post the picture because it also shows what not to do. On this boat, the fuel line was routed from the starboard fuel locker through the lazarette and out the transom for the outboard. Problem is Fuel line not rated for this application- of course dangerous because could introduce fumes or fuel into lazarette. This owner also added access port (deck plate) here to change out motor mount. Maybe others could chime in whether or not the fuel locker is a good position for any type of access plate- concern being that fumes may enter lazarette. Perhaps if it were well sealed- BUT it just is a bit concerning to me.

Brian S · Apr 3, 2013

With no experience, other than just spending 3 days on my knees and butt in the cockpit trying to polish the gelcoat, I think the inspection port in the back of the cockpit makes better sense than in the fuel locker.

The reason is it will allow access to the rudder gudgeon bolts as well as the motor mount bolts. I'm not sure that one would be able to reach the rudder gudgeon bolts if access was through the fuel locker, and some day, it's likely they will need to be re-bedded. You'd probably get easier access to the cockpit drain, than by having to go in through the port lazarette. Or removing the bulkhead and climbing in from the port quarter berth.

I think a proper O-ring sealed deck plate (I installed such an O-ring sealed press-in plate for a friend's kayak day hatch) would prevent gas fumes entering the interior of the boat.

I understand not wanting to put an inspection port right there in the back of the cockpit, on that nice, broad expanse of gelcoat, but overall, it won't look too bad

Brian

Mich222 · Apr 3, 2013

You could also remove the starboard wood panel from inside the cabin and crawl back to install motor mount / tighten the bolts . Definitely a tight fit but other 222 owners have done it. If you want a deck plate, I think either fuel locker or transom cockpit would be okay. I agree with Brian S's reasons for access to multiple repair areas with cockpit transom plate. However I need to tighten starboard stern rail- so if not enough space to get at by removing inside panel, I may cut access for a fuel locker deckplate. Post pictures showing your decsion.

Joe11688 · Apr 3, 2013

Mich222 said:
Attached picture is not my Oday 222, but one I looked at prior to purchasing mine. I am hesitant to post the picture because it also shows what not to do. On this boat, the fuel line was routed from the starboard fuel locker through the lazarette and out the transom for the outboard. Problem is Fuel line not rated for this application- of course dangerous because could introduce fumes or fuel into lazarette. This owner also added access port (deck plate) here to change out motor mount. Maybe others could chime in whether or not the fuel locker is a good position for any type of access plate- concern being that fumes may enter lazarette. Perhaps if it were well sealed- BUT it just is a bit concerning to me.

I mounted a 4" Beckson Deck plate in my fuel compartment to gain access to a cleat that I needed to mount on the Starboard combing near my stern rail and it worked out great.

Like you just mentioned, running a gasoline fuel line through the fuel compartment through the bilge, and out the transom is not safe.

The fuel line on the O'Day 222 needs to exit out opening at the bottom of the fuel locker and up over the transom to the outboard.

The old rubber fuel lines were longer than the new ones of today. The new fuel lines which are Alcohol resistant, are only 6' long which is too short. Also, the syphoning bulb isn't in the right place on the line.

To correct this problem, I had to purchase a longer length of fuel line hose at an automotive store, (pricey) and make the necessary changes, using the hardware from the store bought fuel line. My fuel line is now 8.5' long and the syphoning bulb is about 8" from the fuel line connector inside the compartment.

Joe11688 · Apr 3, 2013

Brian S said:
With no experience, other than just spending 3 days on my knees and butt in the cockpit trying to polish the gelcoat, I think the inspection port in the back of the cockpit makes better sense than in the fuel locker.

The reason is it will allow access to the rudder gudgeon bolts as well as the motor mount bolts. I'm not sure that one would be able to reach the rudder gudgeon bolts if access was through the fuel locker, and some day, it's likely they will need to be re-bedded. You'd probably get easier access to the cockpit drain, than by having to go in through the port lazarette. Or removing the bulkhead and climbing in from the port quarter berth.

I think a proper O-ring sealed deck plate (I installed such an O-ring sealed press-in plate for a friend's kayak day hatch) would prevent gas fumes entering the interior of the boat.

I understand not wanting to put an inspection port right there in the back of the cockpit, on that nice, broad expanse of gelcoat, but overall, it won't look too bad

Brian

I had the same engine bracket on my boat as the one you are replacing.
A friend of mine gave me a "Pantha" engine bracket that he had mounted on his Hunter 27 and much to my surprise, all the holes lined up.:dance: The Pantha bracket is very similar to the Fulton except that the Fulton has wood and the Pantha has a hard Nylon or plastic type material for the motor to clamp on.

Personally, I don't think you need a motor bracket which is built specifically for a four stroke engine if you own a four stroke. A good heavy duty bracket rated for the weight of your engine will work just as well. I'm talking a good heavy duty engine bracket not like the ones that came stock on our boats. Garelick makes a good bracket but there are others out there that are just as good for less money. They may not be rated for a four stroke outboard, but they will work. I've talked to Rudy about this and also some marine engine mechanics, and they are saying the same thing. If you can afford the price of a four stroke bracket though, go for it.

Brian S · Apr 3, 2013

Joe, what do you think is the difference between the supposed 2-stroke vs. 4-stroke? I mean, a 2-stroke motor should be a few pounds lighter than equivalent HP 4-stroke. So that would be a consideration. But there should be no difference as far as thrust or whatever goes, because they are each the same HP spinning a prop... The manufacturers talk about the higher torque of a 4-stroke. For example, Panther specs an aluminum mount with max motor weight of 132lbs, but max hp of 15 for 4-stroke, 20 for 2-stroke. Yet, I'm looking up prop charts for Nissan/Tohatsu, and they are speccing the exact same props on the 2-stroke 5hp as the 4-stroke 5hp.

It just seems like hooey to me...

But what do I know, I'm not a mechanical engineer or an outboard mechanic...

Brian

Mich222 · Apr 3, 2013

Joe:
Regarding youtr comment " I mounted a 4" Beckson Deck plate in my fuel compartment to gain access to a cleat that I needed to mount on the Starboard combing near my stern rail and it worked out great.", would you post pictures of this modification? Thanks

Joe11688 · Apr 3, 2013

Mich222 said:
Joe:
Regarding youtr comment " I mounted a 4" Beckson Deck plate in my fuel compartment to gain access to a cleat that I needed to mount on the Starboard combing near my stern rail and it worked out great.", would you post pictures of this modification? Thanks

Hi Mich,
I posted all my pictures in my albums on this site. You'll find the picture on the 3rd page of Trinkka's Mods. Here's the link.
http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/album.php?albumid=372&page=3

Mich222 · Apr 3, 2013

Thanks Joe. It looks great.

Replacing Motor Mount on O'day 222

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